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秋意渐深。天凉，起风，落雨，树叶变黄变红，纷纷飘落。这种时候我要开始炖汤了。
傍晚时分，暮色四合，家里温暖的灯光，炉火，砂锅里咕嘟咕嘟炖着的汤散发的香气，还有家人，对我来说是最重要的。外面愈冷，家愈显温暖。
想家的感觉常常在不经意的时候突然袭来，让我猝不及防。那罗宋汤的做法，是外婆的方子，她手把手教我的，小时候无数个冬天的日子都是被这样的汤温暖了身子，更温暖了心。
我外婆家以前很富有，因为外公家都是工程师和大公司经理，留过洋，所以生活很西化。家里常常吃西餐，说英文。文化大革命被抄了家，这样的生活方式也终结了。不过外婆还是保留着一些习惯。比如，每周带我们去吃一次西餐，常常去的是红房子。
她教我们如何用刀叉，如何喝汤，如何不弄出声音。她似乎想在我们身上延续一种生活方式，也许她很怀念老底子的一些日子。那些日子是我们做小孩子盼望的，平时也就很乖，因为不想被剥夺出去吃好东西的机会。
我喜欢那里的罗宋汤，或牛尾汤，牛排，猪排。大快朵颐，对一个孩子来说，是最大的幸福。
外婆告诉我，当年我们请客都是在红房子，妈妈坐月子时公公家每天都差佣人送菜送汤来给她补身子。在我印象红房子很有格调，很高级，菜也好吃。
后来我长大了，刚刚改革开放时，有一次有老外客人来，我们陪他去玩儿，最后去红房子吃晚餐。一进去我大吃一惊（我很久没有去了），地方好像很小，装饰也不是记忆里那么好，菜上来更令人失望。老外和我们家很熟的，就笑说: 这是你们描述的餐馆吗?是不是走错了.我们都笑得要死.那时的中国经过了那么多年的劫难,估计不光是我们给记忆增添了色彩,而且的确菜式也不如以往了.
之后又是好多年没去.吃正宗牛扒的地方太多了.红房子已经不是上海吃西餐的首选,也不知道现在的味道怎样.
还记得下午还常去牛奶棚吃蛋糕，冰激凌，害得我到现在还是蛋糕狂, 冰激凌狂. 有一次聚会我吃巧克力蛋糕,喜欢极了,一个老外问我: are you a chocolate-holic? 我这才真正考虑了一下, 想好以后告诉他,我是cakeholic。他不问我还没注意。坐游轮去阿拉斯加时，我的朋友对我说，我使他第一次见识了人类对于蛋糕的热爱。一点不言过其实，我永远喜欢蛋糕和冰激凌，耳边出现外婆常常提醒我的：别急，先吃蛋糕，再吃冰激凌，否则反过来蛋糕就没有味道了。
由于那时的习惯，我还是喜欢吃奶油味重，但是不很甜的蛋糕。西人的蛋糕对我来说都太甜太腻了。
天凉的日子，我开始炖汤。当汤的香味弥漫开来时，家就像个家了；还有早晨咖啡的味道。我外婆常年喝咖啡，她用一个不锈钢的容器煮，水开了会有一些响动，早上这样咕嘟咕嘟的声音伴着咖啡的香味，代表了少时的日子。这些味道令我分外想念我的外婆。今年她已经93岁了，她现在喝速溶咖啡，也不做家事了。一直到91岁，她都是煮饭的。烧菜是她的乐趣，她和我说，其实懂得了规律和菜的特质分类，什么菜都知道怎么烧。事实证明她是对的，我现在烧菜都是靠这个经验。烹饪其实是艺术，要靠一些悟性的，有创意才好玩儿。
一代一代,就是这样传承。家永远都是这么温暖，家里有个女人，在厨房忙碌，冬天夏天，都有不同的菜肴，温暖家人的胃，也温暖家人的心。这些温暖永远印在一代一代的记忆里。
罗松汤，我外婆传给我的。汤盛出来前要用一只特别的勺子把油去掉，否则小肚子......
去了油之后是这样的
我最喜欢的新鲜鲫鱼汤
每周一次的乌骨鸡汤
过年的传统砂锅
平时忙的时候做的简易汤,不用炖很久,用的是丸子甜不辣什么的加蔬菜
扁尖排骨汤
排骨冻豆腐蔬菜汤
试验的排骨黄鱼鲞汤,鲞要泡半天,洗得很干净很干净
海鲜汤
葱油饼
想不到吧,我也会擀面~~~
受了纵然dd的启发,加了一些文字......
看到你太好了。真是很久很久了。问好！
这样哦.
那我勉为其难了.我刚才发帖/qqh给了杜姐,阿葛,陈默,一霖和安娜晴天,你也帮着通知一些可能愿意参加的人?
各位姐妹也帮着吆喝一下,人越多越热闹不是吗?
回复盈袖2006的评论:
谢谢阿袖器重，但提醒你不要辜负AD重托！ 好事轮流分担吗，你的主意你作东，呵呵
我肯定完成作业，这样吧，我们还是分头上汤（注明soup or trick，劳你汇集搬运一下，这样大家都到这里看汤展，如何？
阿苏: 要不要还是你来,你号召力强哎
上汤，上汤。
片片发给谁啊？
好，我明天要发糖！也发汤^_^
今天用一磅肉糜做了34个百叶包，分了四札，汤里有扁尖冬瓜小排和火腿，雅米地很，也让我想念外婆，海带排骨和这样，是她的家常暖胃汤。
谢纵然加注，加油工，非你莫属，加油起哄一把手那种，哈哈
真的是这样子.
我说的牛奶房就是淮海西路高安路附近的牛奶棚,那是我外婆家从茂名路搬到天平路,每周都去那儿,我很喜欢的
你知道,很多上海话里的字我到大了才了解我很多都想错了的.比如你说的牛奶棚,我以为牛奶房,还有"现世报"我以前一直以为是"腌水包",很臭,很不要脸的意思~~;比如像煞有介事,穷凶极恶,我以前根本不知道字是什么;还有窝求苦恼,到现在我也不知道前面两个字应该是什么?我与上海脱离太久了矣~~~
你要不要参加"soup or trick",明天上汤,以免我们去捣乱?
I totally agree.
Unfortunately I don't remember dinner rolls any more however I do remember at that time the steak were so thin and well done that when I had the authentic steak for the first time, I was shocked~~
I think we share the warm memory and the feelings going with it. thank you for your translation...
If we start a "soup or trick" activity, are you in?
阿苏,要不我们搞个soup or trick活动吧,大家明天都上汤,否则我们就trick她.......
你来起头?
她一向这么有趣的,大个喷嚏就说excuse me.快八十岁跟我女儿学电脑,还教我女儿那个是mouse......
现在她真的老了,生活也越来越没趣,她觉得很寂寞.所以我现在假期都攒着回去看她,看爸爸.
小的时候去红房子吃西餐，是件很神圣的事，坐在桌边，尽量装成小淑女~~。现在红房子早已今不如昔。我妹妹也为了了一了对红房子的相思之情，前几个月去了一趟，结果大失所望，胃口倒足，从此断了情结:(
你说的牛奶房是淮海西路高安路附近的牛奶棚吗？喜欢那里的拐奶油，和拐奶油蛋糕，白吃不厌，呵呵。还有淮海路东湖路口的天鹅阁，也是常去的地方。记得牛牛四岁那年，我带他去那里吃西餐，和他面对面坐在楼上的包厢座里，喜得他，拿了刀叉当“武器”，泼翻一大杯橙汁~~
谢谢盈袖，让我一下子回忆起好多往事。
You are right, the dishes at the Red House were, in fact, not really that good at all. In addition, the place was dingy, and decoration was tasteless. But in 80s, that restaurant is only one of handful western styled restaurants available in that city, which actually was offering chinaized western dishes. Still, in that deserted era, it provided a sense of enlightenment for many of us as a window to look beyond China.
I forgot to mention to you that there was one item I also liked then in the Red House, its dinner rolls. The breads were baked on the premises, and they were fresh, warm and tasty with real butter that brought to the table.
Today, a parade of international restaurants open in that city, some of them I've visited are really authentic, offering extremely good quality of food and good prices too, :) yet there is nothing that would be able to bring me back the warmth, the taste, and the expectation rooted in my childhood. Maybe, this is about our life, bygone is bygone, what it really matters is present and future.
BTW, A Su is right, emoticons that she put at the end of each of three lines she wrote didn’t render on window operation system even though they work well on apple products.
So I am going to do your favor to translate her emoticons for you.
每样都 - Every dish looks really lovely!
阿袖周末 - A Xiou, please have a great weekend!
纵然 – Zong Ran, you should work at a gas station to pump gasoline for cars and trucks instead on the street! :)
非常赞尚你的外婆啊---愿她生活格调随着生命不断延续广大！
谢谢你们分享的故事，今天就去煲锅汤，百叶包肉扁尖冬瓜。
也顺祝万圣节愉快！不想挨打就多给汤^_^
你的留言拦腰而断,可不是我哦,别打我~~~
每样都💓
阿袖周末😄
纵然⛽
我怎么听说最好只喂*狗*粮啊.我们见到别人的狗狗,都不敢随便喂东西的.
hei,说有禁闭字,只好一段段发.在自己家,还这么拘束,咳
好啊,倒时看你的pp.在你那儿,看到你怎么什么都给小米吃啊,还去麦当劳.
亲爱的,真是这样,其实也是方便的,这样其他菜也不用煮了,最多再加一个素菜.
She told me when I was one month old, my paternal grandparents held a big celebration in Red House. Actually during the first month, they sent their maids to my grandma's everyday with a dish (usually chicken soup) for my mum.
I have the same feeling as you about all this. Besides the afternoon visit to the "milk house" was impressive too. We will have cake and icecream. I still remember my granny always reminded me to have the cake fist so as to taste it better when I got too anxious about the icecream.
They absolutely were the highlights of my life back then.
As to the color, you are right, it should be a bit redder, I believe it is because I didn't use the tomato paste sauce which give more color trying to avoid the persevatives in the cans.
Well, it's so nice just talking about the old days when we were still little and well cared and taken care of......
With these soup recipes, I am well prepared to be a good granny, though it is still a bit far away~~~
Always nice to see your comments and know you are still dropping by sometimes Ad
对了，天冷喝点热汤对女人尤其好。我明天也去采购点来做做。
Maybe it is because of weather (we have raining and snow right now as I am writing) or because of the exhaustion that resulting from running in bad weather, These soups and hotpots, particular luosongtang (Russian borscht soup) made me drool with strong trace of nostalgic sentiment. :(
Believe or not, I actually grew up on Russian borscht soup. In 80s, I was still a little boy. My father was working his degrees aboard, and my mom had to deal with the ever-changing hospital shifts. My life then was sort hanging on balance over missing my parents lots of time. Nevertheless, there was some good moments: To cheer me up, almost every Saturday like some kind of ritual, my grandpa and grandma would dress me up a little and brought me to a western restaurant named “the Red House” located on Huaihaizhonglu, which is not too far from our house, on sunny day we could walk to there. Sometimes my mom joined us if she was off that day. The menu offerings from the Red House was quite primitive even “shameful” if using today’s foodies’ standards. But then the dishes here were pretty good to me. My folks would almost always order beefsteak, French onion soup and some other side dishes; For me, I’d stick with Russian borscht soup and fried pork chop. In the season of late fall and winter, the hot Russian borscht soup full with the chucks of meat, tomato, cabbage and carrots not only delighted my palate and filled my stomach but warmed my whole body and mind. In retrospect, a couple of hours spent at the table of the restaurant and shared favorite food with love ones had inevitably laid the layers of fabrics for understanding this world – one cannot always get all one wants, but a simple plate of soup may light a day.
Nowadays, I wouldn’t visit the Red House any more. It seems that it won’t make that kind of Russian borscht soup which has embedded in my memory any more. It could be that my taste has been spoiled.
Apparently, from the photo A J makes good Russian borscht soup if it can be a bit redder. :)
Thanks for sharing!