秘鲁深度游：利马

经过十个小时的辗转，终于在凌晨两点多到达利马，半夜的机场依然人声鼎沸，6月开始是祕鲁旅游旺季，许多游客就地休息等待明天一大早的航班飞库斯科。我和S嫂怀着许多兴奋，一点忐忑，全部期待，跟着事先安排好来接机的的哥潜入这充满海腥味，潮湿但从不下雨的南美都市。

这里是秘鲁的简介。

 

城市大广场。

城市大广场。

利马大教堂。

我们住宿的几个街口之遥就是海边，好区地段在拜仁克区Barranco District。

我们寄住的人家。

秘鲁是玉米原产地，这里的大玉米不会很甜但很Q且香！

利马盛产各种水果，天然纯果汁质量好得无法形容，价格亲民得更是一塌糊涂，街市里一杯鲜榨橙汁才2个索尔，不到人民币5元！今天的早餐是圈圈油条配橙汁，还没开吃满足已经荡漾开来，你看到了吗？

咖啡在这里不受重视，色彩是永远的主题。

果然术业有专攻，擦鞋亦不例外。如此明鉴照人的效果，今天算是见识了！

“我也要防暴”！ 远据说至今还有反政府的游击队，利马首都可以处处看到防暴警察，他们看到了S嫂就不够严肃了。

S嫂：”回头率，还不低哦“！ 
 

来以前据说这个动作很危险，乱座黑车会被绑架，云云。这个城市有自成一格的隐形秩序和默契，比如所有出租车都不打表，乘客上车前必须跟司机谈妥价格，有执照的没执照的鱼龙混杂相安无事。我的西班牙语居然已能够与当地司机砍价的程度了，少了这样的经历何谈深度游呢？

瞧眼前这位司机大哥，自备一个简易Taxi标志，拿下放上随心所欲。所幸无论正规与否，一旦价格达成共识，服务都很到位，憨厚有礼，令人心生敬意。外来者窥探一种人文，从陌生打量到试探性介入再到如鱼得水，有一种难以表述的欣慰和长吁浊气一口的舒畅。我想旅行的妙处便在于此。

这里是喵星人的天堂！

 

Strad 秘鲁六月2013

 

Yma Sumac claimed that she was an Incan princess, directly descended from Atahualpa. Yma Sumac (pronounced /ˈiːmə ˈsuːmæk/; September 13, 1922 -- November 1, 2008) was a noted Peruvian soprano. In the 1950s, she was one of the most famous proponents of exotica music and became an international success, based on the merits of her extreme vocal range, which was said to be "well over four octaves" and was sometimes claimed to span even five octaves at her peak. Yma Sumac recorded an extraordinarily wide vocal range of more than four octaves from B2 to C#7 (approximately 123 to 2270 Hz). She was able to sing notes in the low baritone register as well as notes above the range of an ordinary soprano. Both low and high extremes can be heard in the song Chuncho (The Forest Creatures) (1953). She was also apparently able to sing in an double voice.