NY Fashion Week

Evening dresses by nature should feel fun. They’re meant for parties, after all. But because their price tags often skyrocket into five figures (or higher), they’ve become big business. Which is why you have to appreciate Marchesa’s designer and cofounder Georgina Chapman and cofounder Keren Craig, two women who create some of fashion’s most glamorously decorated evening dresses but don’t take themselves or their work any more seriously than they should. Listen to Chapman’s commentary on a knee-length white dress from their resort collection that has intricately beaded netting on the top and a fringe of plumes under the bust and on the sleeves. “It wouldn’t be Marchesa without some feathers,” she said with a laugh, taking the piece off the rack for a model to try. No, nor would it be Marchesa without lace, embroidery, crystals, and enough tulle to outfit the Ballets Russes, all of which was accounted for this season. Chapman acknowledged that she and Craig approach resort as a time to offer women the kinds of things they’ve come to covet from the label. That includes, but is not limited to: 1) loads of drama, as seen in a slinky, matte-gold sequined and embroidered dress with pouf sleeves; 2) statement color, like the rich raspberry of a short strapless number with voluminous folds of taffeta; and 3) tried-and-true shapes, like a one-shouldered party dress, a slim-fitting strapless evening option with cascading ruffles, and caftans for the lucky women who are dressing for lives that resemble Slim Aarons photographs.  
 
One short-sleeved shift in white with a jeweled neckline and matching coat (call it a Marchesa twinset) brought to mind Gatsby, and though the reference may not have been deliberate it’s not far off from the designers’ actual inspiration: garden parties, dappled sunlight and the romance of summer. As for their ever-expanding bag collection, which includes crystal-encrusted minaudières with chunky, rough-cut stone clasps and envelope-shaped shoulder bags with metal chains and tassels, Chapman said women are buying them simply to own and/or display, not necessarily to wear. But it's probably not because they don’t have anywhere to go

 

Marchesa Fall/Winter 2012/13 Show at New York Fashion Week NYFW | FashionTV