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饕餮 Fiddlehead Fern

(2005-05-29 16:30:40) 下一个

在 New York magazine 上看到一篇关于吃 fiddlehead fern 的文章 。今天碰巧在商店里看到这个菜,忍不住买来试做。

洗好摘净,菜下锅,一股怪味扑鼻而来。有网站上说这个菜味道 pungent 真是 no kidding。不过菜已经在锅里,只好硬着头皮继续炒。盐,胡椒 the usual stuff。临急抱佛脚,又下了一注白酒。锅里顿时扑出一大阵怪味,当时差点给熏晕倒。心里想:well, that's four bucks that I will never see. ; )

但是不忍心就此放弃,找到那本杂志,看到里面有写还要放 chili peppers, among whole bunch of other stuff。于是又揉碎了了个干辣椒放下去。手边正好还有一只蒸好的龙虾,于是又起了一些龙虾肉丢到锅里。炒啊炒啊,拿起一片fern 尝,怪味基本上没有了,居然不是很难吃。没有很多菜味,instead 是植物的味道。texture 方面,有一些纤维,但是绝不 chewy。

总的来说,这次的实验还算圆满。不过以后可能不会再买了。拍照留念。:)

New York 杂志上的原文:

In Season
Fiddlehead Ferns
Think of fiddlehead ferns, those tightly coiled, emerald-green symbols of spring, as ferns interrupted.


(Photo credit: Carina Salvi)

Think of fiddlehead ferns, those tightly coiled, emerald-green symbols of spring, as ferns interrupted. Left unforaged, they’d mature into tall, feathery fronds. Gathered young by farmers like Franca Tantillo, who sells them at her Berried Treasures Greenmarket stand, they boast a crunchy texture and vegetal flavor prized by seasonally minded chefs. At the Spotted Pig, April Bloomfield sautées them with ramps and garlic for a particularly pungent, pancetta-enhanced bruschetta topping.

April Bloomfield’s Fiddlehead-Fern Bruschetta
10 ounces ramps
10 ounces fiddlehead ferns
4 tablespoons butter
Pinch Maldon sea salt
Pinch crushed chili pepper
2 cloves garlic (1 chopped, 1 halved)
Half a lemon
4 slices Italian bread (Bloomfield recommends filone from Sullivan St. Bakery)
4 teaspoons olive oil
8 slices pancetta, cooked until crisp

Illustrations by John Burgoyne

Wash ramps and fiddlehead ferns well. Slice off and reserve the white bulbs of the ramps, and chop the green leaves into thirds. Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat until it starts to froth.
(1) Add ferns, the ramp bulbs, sea salt, and chili flakes. Cook until vegetables are slightly soft, approximately two minutes. Add ramp leaves. Toss and check seasoning. Cook until slightly brown (approximately three minutes). Add chopped garlic. Turn off heat. Drizzle lightly with lemon. Toast or grill bread until brown.
(2) Rub lightly with halved garlic clove and drizzle with olive oil.
(3) Top with ferns, ramps, and pancetta. Serves 4.

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