《行走等候千年的古城》

时间：2006年12月29日至2007年1月1日



      湘西的凤凰，对我而言是陌生的、神秘的，然而也是诱惑的，隐隐约约感受到一种遥远的邀约，让我不禁对她怦然心动，向往这梦一般的地方。



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一、我们在途中



：




      凤凰为我等了千年，  我为凤凰二十四小时长途跋涉。



      由于东莞买不到往吉首的卧铺车票，我们不得不前往广州火车站搭车。



      我们约好在常平火车站集合。




      东莞往广州的车是12：01分开出，可是一刀却是12：00才赶到，幸好火车晚点十分钟才让我们都顺利搭上火车了。



      不到一个小时，我们就到达广州了，在真功夫吃过午餐后，我们就进火车站等着出发了。



      火车又晚点了，我们在车站等了一个小时， 下午三点多才上了往吉首的车，第二天八点多到了吉首，包了车赶到凤凰时，刚好是早晨十点半，与我从家中出发，刚刚是二十四小时，为了凤凰跋涉了二十四小时，也不枉凤凰等了我们千年吧。



      虽然路途遥远，可一点却不觉得辛苦，坐火车的感觉真好！




      本来是2张中铺，5张上铺，而且是分散的，可是我们发挥了帅哥的魅力，通过换票，不仅让我们相对集中，而且还拿到一张下铺，开心S了。



      喝茶，唇齿间的芳香，让人精神一振。



      聊天、打牌、发贴、拍照、发呆……



      对面坐着的是一对来自香港的老夫妻,温和儒良的样子，对我们的一举一动很好奇并报以会心的微笑，和我们聊天。同车的还有一班从广州来的游客，在未来两天里多次碰面，甚至后来也是同一班车回去。




      九点半睡觉……



      早晨六点起来，好清爽的早晨啊，大片大片的翠绿掠过眼帘，内心的喜悦悄然弥漫。



      火车早晨八点多就到吉首了。



      一下车，感觉到一股寒气扑面而来，幸好我们已全副武装：大衣、围巾、手套。




      吉首站并不大，随处看到的是与我们一样前来与凤凰相约的游客。



      买了三张返程火车票后，我们包了两辆的士往凤凰而去了。



      一路上我心情很平静，或许因为凤凰平来就是一个平静的小城，因此我也以一种平静的心情向她朝圣。



二、凤凰初印象：








       在临近南华门还有几百米处，居然碰到塞车，我们于是下车步行前往。



       想着传说中的凤凰即将亲近，沿着泥泞的路我不由跑起来了，顾不得裤脚上沾了斑斑点点的泥……



       碧绿的沱江渐渐靠近，远处的古色古香的房子，掉光叶子的枫树，好安静的感觉。




       天气是阴冷潮湿,没有阳光，一切尽在雾中。



       虽然象其它旅游城市一样，我们也到处碰到的“孜孜不倦”的拉客者,新城中毫无特色的街道，各式门市、出租车,但只消转个弯到了古城，你就可以将失望的情绪抛在脑后了。



      古城很小，如不长时间驻足两左右个小时就可以逛完了。小城分为东城景区，沙湾景区，北城景区。




      北门景区有古城楼、城墙、跳岩、特色民居、文庙、名人故里, 周围青山秀美，配上碧绿沱江，倒影袅袅，让人心醉。东门景区则由石板街、古码头、升恒门、吊脚楼、配上那一街的特色商店和凤凰小吃组成，值得品味。 沙湾景区则集古虹桥、万名塔、遐昌阁以及凤凰八景中的五景皆聚于此，是一道独特的风景线。



      到处都是客栈，所以在这里一点都不用担心住的的问题。



      我们在靠近北城景区的地方找了家客栈，15元一人/晚，配热水器，也很干净。



      离我们住的地方一百米就到了北门城楼。




      在跳岩边上拍照时，由于沱江水太清了，小妹不小心就把脚踩到水里了，于是我们陪着她去买了鞋子了，之后吃午餐。



      然后开始在小城里闲逛了。



      这时候的小城，游客并不多，给人感觉是一个慢悠悠的，安静闲适的。冬天的人们都喜欢坐在火炉旁边，盖着小棉被，或是坐着绣鞋垫，或是聊天，或是无所事事的样子。



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三、泛舟沱江



：



      “我情感流动而不凝固，一派清波给予我的影响实在不小，我幼小时较美丽的生活，大部分都同水不能分离。我的学校极可以说是在水边的。我认识美，学会思索，水对我有极大的关系。”-------沈从文  




      可以说，凤凰的精髓在于古城，古城的精髓在于沱江。沱江的水是灵动，沱江上的人也是灵动的，坐在船上看着青山绿水，本身就是一种享受。



      又一次碰到了广州的那班游客，于是相约一起泛舟沱江。



      船夫说如果是夏天就热闹了，可以打水仗，通常在船靠岸前便会收获半船的河水和一船的欢声笑语。



      我倒很享受此刻的宁静。拿起桨，在这静美的河面上轻轻推开一道水痕，马上便恢复平整如玉。




      船儿轻轻的，悠悠的，周围安逸的感觉，偶尔一阵悠扬婉转的苗家姑娘或船夫的山歌声飘入耳际。



      沱江水好清啊，碧绿的水草，密密的，柔柔的，让人不禁浮现出徐志摩的诗句：“软泥上的青荇，油油的在水底招摇；在康河的柔波里，我甘心做一条水草。”



      岸边的人们洗着红萝卜，那鲜艳的红，与翠绿的叶子，也能让人眼前一亮。



      真是“舟行碧波上，人在画中游”啊！




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四、听涛山上的沈从文墓地




      船夫告诉我们沈从文的墓地就在岸边的听涛山上。于是下了船后，我们便前往观瞻。这是一座不起眼的小山。沿山路而上最先看到的是黄永玉写的一块石碑，上边刻着沈从文的名言：“一个士兵，要不战死沙场，便是回到故乡。”再往上走，是两道分叉的山间小路，该往左还是往右？没有任何标识，于是我们试着往左边走，拾阶而上，看到的是一绿油油的菜地，于是又往回走，绕了一大圈，终于看到一块石头。这便是葬有沈从文骨灰的五色石，石上刻着：“照我思索，可理解我；照我思索，可认识人。”背面则刻是：“不折不从，星斗其文；亦慈亦让，赤子其人。”



      从文先生的墓竟也如此朴素平常，与他的文字一样平淡而又优美，毫不张扬，静静地在这沱江边听着涛声依旧。



      离开听涛山不远的一条小巷，拥挤的人群挡住了我们前进的道路。原来有当地人办丧事，响起惊天动地的鞭炮声，在这本来幽静古老的小巷惊起一片烟尘雾海。足足有十几分钟，我们躲在一边，心想在这安静小城生活的人们最后谢幕，竟要用这样的喧闹来装点？



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五、晚上沱江边







      夜幕渐渐降临，雨也时有时无地下着。此次凤凰之行，可惜没有见到下雪。如果温度再低一点，这飘渺的雨便会化为雪花飘飘吧，于是我只能发挥想象力，告诉自己这就是雪了。



      晚餐吃的是火锅，一人十元任吃，加上酒钱7人才花掉102元，挺值的。热腾腾的火锅，让我们的幸福指数又提高了不少。




      买了烟花，我们便来到了沱江边，眼前的景象让人不禁有种惊艳的感觉。



      天色已全暗，两岸的吊脚楼上亮起点点灯火，红红灯笼，映照着夜晚的江水，稍远处的虹桥上更是灯火通明，在水面上映画出美丽迷人的圆形桥洞来。江边，跳岩上站着放河灯的人们，燃着小蜡烛的河灯在江面上随水漂去，象一朵朵盛开的花儿，承载着人们的点点希翼。



      当然，我们的烟花也给夜色的沱江增添了一份风情。



      在这样美丽的沱江边我竟然碰见自己的小学同学。阿凡叫我的名字时，我与她拥抱时竟叫出童年中另一个伙伴的名字。她不仅仅是我的同学，也是从小一起长大的，见证了彼此的曾走过的童年与青春的伙伴。她与另外三位上网上认识的朋友自驾前来的。




      走过跳岩，在守望者酒吧尽情将这美丽的夜晚进行到底。



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六、苗寨走一遭




      晚上睡觉时真冷，棉被太薄了，还是睡到凌晨五点钟醒来，才知道自己已成为冰人，双脚成冰棍，于是将自己象裹粽子一样裹起来，再加个大衣，感觉暖和了些才继续悠悠然进入梦乡也。



      睡到八点多醒来，睁开眼睛，想起今天是紫嫣的生日，于是对她说:”你今天长尾巴了没有?”呵呵，长了长了。



      刷牙时听到油研的吼声：“起床啦起床，你们这班人真能睡，都九点钟了，我都拍完照回来了…….”



      吃了早餐,接着出发去苗塞,本来是想去老家寨,后来我们经过司机强烈推荐，我们去了香炉山苗寨。




      接待我们的是一个苗族的阿婶,身装苗族衣服，身上挂满了不少银饰品，说是结婚时带来的，阿婶特喜欢笑，总是说不了几句话，自己就呵呵地笑个不停。



     下过雨后的山间石阶路显得格外滑,斜斜地接近九十度，我们都小心翼翼地走着，心怕一脚踩空跌落深涯。很快到了一个土匪洞，幽幽的，深深的，一条清溪穿洞而过。据说这个土匪洞很不简单，当年解放军花了三个月才打下来。抬头看到的堡，似乎也诉说着当年的风霜岁月。



      出了洞，翻过一个小山峰，苗寨就映入眼帘，一路上听到苗家姑娘的歌声。



      接下来的选种是进入苗家寨。迎接我们的是一列排开的苗族MM（可是看来看去其中只有三个是年轻的，好象还有大嫂级甚至是阿婆级呢）。她们唱起了苗族歌曲，虽然听不懂她们唱什么，但看到她们个个脸上都笑开花，心里也挺舒畅的。




      接下来发生的是精彩的一幕：我们的原兮大哥被抢亲了！原兮可是明星啊，看他长相分明就是和坤（王刚）的高大英俊版。说时迟那时快，苗家MM唱着唱着就将原兮和另一个苗家MM用红绳绕在一起，原兮大哥算是被抢了！原兮一下子没反应过来，略为错愕后还是笑得乐呵呵的，不过让他郁闷的是，那位“MM”原来是三十年前的苗家姑娘，现在是个地地道道的阿婆啊。



      接着喝了酒，欣赏了热情的花鼓舞后，我们进寨了。村民都很热情，我们用刚学到的苗家话与他们打招呼。走进一家苗族人家，里面是摆了三两个卖小饰品的小摊，纺纱的婆婆，百岁的老人家脸无表情坐在阴暗的角落任由游客观赏。有两个小女孩，三四岁光景，一个长得如花似玉，一个可爱得象个小猪头，两人都盛装打扮，苗服，银饰品叮咚作响，一路上陪着游客照相。举起两个小手指头，装可爱的样子，似乎是职业性的动作，每每将她双指放下，她忽一下又用另一手举起两指，引起一阵笑声。



      接下来进则欣赏表演的，唱歌、花鼓舞、杆、跳绳、对歌……



      当主持人说要找三位GG上台比赛，我们的油研第一个冲上台，还牛了一把呢。看他穿了一身阿婆的服装，大摇大摆地走猫步。在脱衣比赛环节中，他还得了冠军呢。




       中午饭可丰盛了,七个人吃了十八道菜,看PP。



       虽然此次苗家寨一走，并没有让我们见到想见的淳朴与古老的感觉，一切都流于表演的形式，真正打动心灵深处的东东并没有感受到，但是我们快乐的七人组还是在吃与玩方面尽兴了，足矣!



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