2010夏之旅 5.东部之巅

 

  记得印度好友Anita曾对轻舟说：“来美国近20年了，在美国各地的旅游面积比起在印度要广得多。”我也有同感，在美国居住时间没有中国长，但美国本土的游历比中国开阔的多。美国旅游交通很方便，可以自驾车游，较远的地方可以做飞机去，或者坐游轮、火车。。。普通美国家庭夏天都会出门度假一到两周，全家人一起出游，欣赏美景，更享受家人在一起的黄金时光。

 

  从佛蒙特州(Vermont)北开车两个多钟头，就到了新罕布什尔州(New Hampshire)的白色山岭一带(White Mountain Ridges)，这一带山岭高低起伏，蜿蜒盘转。我们向美东最高峰华盛顿山峰(Mt. Washington)开去。华盛顿山峰海拔六千多英尺，是美国东部爬山爱好者必要攀登的主要山脉之一。我们一家2003年曾经来过，当时孩子尚小，我们坐蒸汽火车沿齿轨铁路(cog rail)登上山峰，其中有世界吉尼斯纪录齿轨铁路最陡的轨道（37度的山坡），那段铁路的绰号是"Jacob's ladder"（源于圣经旧约雅各梦见天梯）。这次我们决定开车沿汽车山路(auto-road)上最高峰。两个大人、两个孩子的车子要付43美元，护山员给了我们一个信封和一片碟带。信封里有“登上顶峰”的证书和“这辆车爬上了华盛顿山峰”的车子贴条（听起来真不错，哈哈！）。护山员让我们边上山边听碟带，了解安全开车的小建议，和华盛顿山峰的历史地质事实。。。

 

   依照安全提议，杰明用最慢铛开车上山，车速在15-20英里左右。天气预报说，大约有50%暴风雨的可能。不管怎样，当天没有下雨，但时晴时阴。山景也时隐时现地与我们“捉迷藏”。在不同的高度瞭望台，我们停下来拍照赏景。

 

   华盛顿山有很多绰号，其中一个是“世界上最恶劣天气的地方”，因其冬季酷寒和疾风而闻名，世界上风力最强的记录来自该山头，1934年有风力每小时231英里的记录。华盛顿山风景点也是美国历史上最早的人工建造的景点，景点1861年对游客开放。山路还是从前的样子，只是曾经是马车路，如今是汽车路。路道窄，但宽度够双行道通车。路边不时有悬崖，让人触目惊心。这样的山行不适合恐高症者。

 

    根据碟带介绍，山峰天气多变。当我们开到山顶时，阳光从云层中探出了头，几分钟后，云儿重遮天空。迷雾将山顶的眺望塔重锁。又有云雾在脚下，让我们感觉腾云驾雾一般。

 

   山顶上有齿轨铁路(cog rail)和火车头，但护山员告诉我们，现在不再用蒸汽火车了，柴油发动的火车代替了蒸汽火车。

 

  我们参观了山顶的信息台和博物馆。有很多关于山顶险恶气候的图片和电视介绍，墙上还贴着近200年以来，在开发山峰为景点，攀登山峰或住在山上而死去的人的名单。当天（8月2日）山下气温70多华氏度，山上气温是50多华氏度。冬季山顶气候之严酷可以想象。顶峰不见任何植被。

 

   到达山顶很有成就感也玩得很尽兴。当地印第安人说的好，“到达顶峰的记忆将伴随一生”。这次，即便是孩子，这句话也同样适用。

 

 

（图） 在不同的高度瞭望台，我们停下来拍照赏景。

当天没有下雨，但时晴时阴。山景也时隐时现地与我们“捉迷藏”。

远处山间的那条线，就是山路，有近150年历史了



多年以来徒步登山者留下的石堆，作为记号









山顶上有齿轨铁路(cog rail)





山顶信息台介绍天气的险恶

火车头走下了很多游客


  
下山是同一条山路。

1861年建的山路还是从前的样子，只是曾经是马车路，如今是汽车路。路道窄，但宽度够双行道通车。路边不时有悬崖，让人触目惊心。这样的山行不适合恐高症者。

 

以下是轻舟当时写的游记原文：

 

Monday   August 2nd

 

   From North VM to New Hampshire, the drive was remote but beautiful.  When we entered White Mountain Ridges, there were mountains looming high and low, curving against one another. We headed directly to Mt. Washington, which has the highest peak (6,288 feet) in the East of America. Seven years ago our family vacation took us here. Back then both kids were young and they didn't remember much. In 2003 we boarded a cog rail steamed engine to go up Mt. Washington. I still remembered the steep "Jacob's Ladder" (37-degree of Guinness record) part of the journey. This time we decided to use auto-road to drive up to the peak. It cost us 43 dollars to enter and the ranger gave us an envelope and a CD. There was a "Certificate of Accomplishment" and "This car climbed Mt. Washington" bumper sticker. Sounds great, isn't it! The CD gave basic information on safety tips and mountain's history and geography.

 

    We used low gears to climb up the mountain with average speed of 15-20mph. The weather forecast says, "It has 50% chance of storm." Nevertheless, it never rained and when we drove up, it alternated between sunshine and overcast. The mountain view played "hide-N-seek" with us. We took breaks at different observation spots, taking pictures and appreciating the beautiful of mountain ranges.

 

   Mt. Washington has many nicknames, one of them is "The home of the world's worst weather" for its severe winter weather on the top. It has the world's worst wind shield (231MPH) documented in 1934. It is also the oldest man-made attraction in the U.S. history. It was made to public in 1861. The roads were unchanged since then. In the old time, the road was for horse-drawn carriages, now the automobiles was driven to the peak. The road was narrow, but wide enough for two-way traffic. The cliffs on the side can be scary, so it is not advised for people who have fear in heights.

 

    According to the CD recording, the weather of Mt. Washington changes quickly and dramatically. When we reached the top, the clouds moved away for a few minutes, but it soon overcastted. The heavy mist folded above and the observation tower was hidden. There were clouds underneath us, making us feel like floating in the sky.

 

   It was nice seeing the cog rails and the engines on the top, however, the rangers told us that no more steamed engines were used any more, the diesels were used to bring passengers up and down. We felt blessed to have been able to ride on the steamed engine in 2003.

 

    We visited the Information Desk and the Museum at the top. There were pictures and maps explaining the tough weather of the peak. A list of names who died while exploring the peak were displayed on the wall. The temperature was 70's at the bottom and it changed to 50's at the top. It is not hard to imagine how bad the weather can be during winter seasons. There were virtually no plants at the height.

 

    We had a wonderful time at the peak and this time, even for kids, "The memory will take with you forever" as it says among the local Indians.