Camping in High Mountains - 高山露营（图）

An unwritten policy has been in place for years: stay home during major holidays. This is obviously a way to avoid driving in heavy traffic under the influence of alcohol and other vices. This year, however, we made an exception to go camping in the High Sierras during the 4th of July weekend. As seasoned campers we are aware of the fact that most campgrounds are booked solid during major holiday weekends. But we also know quite a few places that don't take reservations and operate on "first come, first serve" basis. In other words, if one gets to the campground early enough, chances are that one might find an open spot. With that in mind, we got up around 6 in the morning on Friday, July 4, and left home around 7 o'clock. 这些年里一直遵循一条不成文的原则：大的节日不出门。 这也不失为不与堵车，酗酒和其它危险为伍的一种方法。今年例外，我们决定利用 7 月 4 日独立节的周末去内华达山脉（ High Sierras ）帐篷旅游。常出去搭帐篷所以也知道节日的周末，营地一般是人满为患；同时也知道相当一部分营地不接受预约，按‘先来后到’分配住处。也就是说，如果去的够早，找到一地的机会还是有的。这样，我们周五也就是七月四号早上六点起床，七点左右就从家出发了。 Even though California Route 4 is officially a state highway, for most part it's nothing but a well-paved two-way country road that goes straight in the flat lands and winds around in the hills. Under normal circumstances it takes roughly three hours to drive from San Francisco Bay Area to the Sierra Nevada. But we took a half hour break for breakfast at the halfway point. As a result, we arrived at Lake Alpine around 11 o'clock. Lake Alpine locates just before the Ebbetts Pass on the West side of the High Sierra. Even after a dozen visits, I always take great delight in the pristine environment created by the rocks, trees, water and flowers at this part of the world. 加州 4 号公路名义上是州立高速，其实也就是两道线的乡间大道，路面平整些罢了，平地显直，山坡处弯多，如此这般。正常情况下，从旧金山湾区到内华达山（也叫 Sierra Nevada ）只需 3个多 小时的车程。我们半路吃早餐用去半个多小时，所以到达高山湖（ Lake Alpine ）时，已经是 11 点钟了。高山湖位于大山西侧，就在艾百刺山口（ Ebbetts Pass ）下面。此地我们以前多次来访，但每次来到这里，那岩石、树木、河流、鲜花构成的美景都令人觉得心旷神怡。 Most of the time we dread about driving through the extreme hot condition of California's Central Valley for sometimes it reaches 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius). This year we were lucky. For whatever reason, the sky was overcast for more than half of the day. The thin clouds sheltered us from the scorching summer sun. Even when we arrived at Lake Alpine, the sky was still largely gray. So the lake didn't shine at first; and we didn't mind the grayness a bit. 每次来我们都对开车穿过加州中部山谷心有余悸，因为夏日的温度可高达华氏 100 （摄氏 38 ）度。可今年我们有些幸运呢：头半天时间天空有薄云覆盖。阳光因此柔弱了许多。到了高山湖，天空还显灰色。湖面就没有了往日波光粼粼的景色，这些都不足以令人遗憾。  There are 4 sizeable campgrounds immediately around Lake Alpine, with a few more in the half-mile radius. We camped at the Pine Martin Campground on the East Shore of Lake Alpine last August; so, this year we wanted to try the West Shore which came up first anyway. When we got there, the "Campground Full" sign was up; and then the Lake Alpine Campground host was nowhere to be found. That was a bit disappointing. But no worries, for we could easily zip around the lake and try out luck at other sites. 高山湖周围 露营地有四处，半英里之内还有好几家。去年 8 月，我们在湖东岸的松燕（ Pine Martin ） 营住了一次。今年，我们想尝试一下西岸的风光；西岸离得也近些。可到了那里却看到了 “ 露营地客满 ” 的牌子，而高山湖营地的管理人亦不见踪影。稍稍有些扫兴。其实不用担心的，因为我们绕湖转那么一下，还可以到别处碰碰运气。 Ah, Pine Martin came up first. The "Campground Full" sign was also up. But the host was in. When we asked him if there was anything opening up, he responded affirmatively, with a friendly manner and Texan accent. That was very nice. 首先映入眼帘的又是松燕营地，这儿的 “ 露营地客满 ” 的牌子也高高悬起。但是营地管理人在岗。此人态度和蔼、说话一口漂亮的德克萨斯口音，热情地给了我们一个 “ 有地方 ” 的回答。听了让人心里舒畅。 Naturally we asked him about the old couple who hosted us last year. "Homer" the old gentleman had some heart condition and had to retire, so we were told. That was too bad, for we still remembered some stories Homer related to us. 我们自然问起去年管理露营地的那对夫妇 , 得 知老先生 Homer 由于心脏问题不得不退休。这太遗憾了，因为我们一直记得 “Homer” 给我们讲的一些故事。 Last year we camped next to the host. So, we talked with the old couple often. When we asked Homer if there were any bears coming at night, he said "yes." As a matter of fact, one old grizzly bear came once in a while to visit old Homer. Homer the grizzly man would give the old grizzly bear some food. Homer also held a one-way conversation with the bear. The bear would finished the food provided and leave without bothering any of the campers. 去年，我们的营地与管理人相邻，时常里攀谈。当我们问道晚上是否会有熊前来时， Homer 说“熊当然有 ” 。他说有一只年老的灰熊常来拜访他，其实就是讨食吃来了。熊来了， Homer 就跟熊说话，那熊只管吃，吃完就摇摇晃晃的溜了，从不打搅其他露营者。 With the help of the host, we got the campsite closest to the lake. The tent was pitched and the water was inviting to swimming enthusiasts. I am not a swimmer so I took my camera for mountain trekking. 在新管理员的帮助下，我们居然得到了离湖最近的那个营地。支起帐篷后，游泳爱好者在觊觎充满诱惑的湖水。我不喜欢游泳，就带上相机向山里进发。 The sky was opening up a bit as I parked by the freeway at the Stanislaus Meadow trailhead. There were a large horde of cows with giant bells around their necks，deafening to the ears. 车到斯丹尼斯劳斯草地（ Stanislaus Meadown）人行 入路口时，天空一下子亮堂起来。草地上有一大群牛，脖子上系着巨大的铃铛，震耳欲聋。 Soon, I was at the bottom of the valley and the river was gurgling, and the rock formations amazing. 不久就见到谷底了，小河逶迤，潺潺有声。岩层奇特，令人刮目相看 。    The sky finally became blue and bright. 蔚蓝的天空，洁白的云彩。  After becoming lost for a short while, I finally reached my destination of the day, Bull Run Lake. It's a real alpine lake, just under the majestic Bull Run Peak. 走失了一段路后，最终找到了当天的目的地：跑牛湖（ Bull Run Lake ）， 那是跑牛山下一座的真正的高山湖泊。   It was a lot of walking up and down the mountains but the view was totally worth the effort. 上上下下，翻山越岭，路没少走；可这美景色又让人觉得一切都值。 Some sights will linger in one's mind a long time; some views will last a lifetime. 有些景色注定要在记忆里长留，更有的景色会让人终生回味。 When I got back late in the afternoon and found everyone worried, I realized that I was gone a long time already. 傍晚回到露营地，看到人人面有忧色，方才意识到今天确实走的太久。 Still after dinner of delicious BBQ meat, salad, watermelon and beer, I decided to get high on the hill behind the lake, Inspiration Point it was called. The view is precious there. 晚饭有美味的烧烤，沙拉、西瓜和牛肉。吃了饭，余兴未消，又去攀登湖后面的一座叫做灵感崖（ Inspiration Point ）的小山，从那里看景，犹如仙境。 The evening sunlight brought the pine trees and mountains some wonderful profiles. 落霞的余辉将松树和群山辉映得格外耀眼。 I had been up here last year and saw Duck Lake from a bird's eye view. Though the Lake was completely in the shadow of the hill, I still marveled at the sight. 去年我曾来过此景点，居高鸟瞰野鸭湖（ Duck Lake ）。此刻湖被山所遮挡，可那湖景依然令人赞叹不已。  On my way down, I saw quite a few meadows full of beautiful flowers. 下山途经山花盛开的草地。  Whew, that was quite a day. Sleep became easier, even in cold temperature of the 7000 feet and above, because I was rather exhausted at night. 一天就这样过去了！人累了，海拔 7000 英尺的高地，即使很冷，也能酣然入睡。 So many stars in the night sky; but I was too tired to stay up long, even around a marvelous bonfire. In the morning chirping birds woke us up. Lake Alpine let out some thin mist. It was like a fairyland. 繁星点点，篝火熊熊，只是我太累了，早早就入帐篷睡了。凌晨，小鸟叽喳，猛地醒来，只见湖面泛起一层薄霭，犹如仙境！ I got up around 7 in the morning. It was early and cold as I had to stay by the bonfire to keep myself warm. Then I realized that I didn't have much time to waste. We had planned to leave the campground for home around midday and I wished to visit Rock Lake, which I soon found out was some four and a half miles away, across quite a few hills and rivers and through and around many forests. 七点钟起来。凌晨的空气十分寒冷，不得不围着篝火取暖。突然意识到所余时间不多了！我们计划中午离开营地回家，我还想去看一下岩湖（ Rock Lake ）呢。此湖离我们营地有 4.5 英里之远！中间要跨越几座山、几道河流和许多树林子。 Alone in the mountains, I could clearly see that I am devious by nature. This eventually led me astray in the mountains. 一人在山中赶路，我才清楚看倒自己性格里的反叛本色。 The previous day I was already a bit lost in search of Bull Run Lake. The lesson learned was "stay on the trail." When travelling in the mountains unfamiliar, the trail serves as the only guide for one to find one's way in and out of the mountains. Being lost could lead to some grave consequences. 昨天我在寻找跑牛湖的路上就走失了。今天还在告诫自己：沿着山路走。在不熟悉的山中，小路是进出山的唯一向导。在山中迷路可不是闹着玩的，有时会后果严重。 However, the trail to Rock Lake was very narrow, winding around many rock hills, boulders, rivers, and forests. In certain sections, the bushes were so thick that the trail become buried. The only wonderful thing was that wild flowers were at their prime, without being disturbed by foot traffic. 可这通往岩湖路也委实太窄小了，弯弯曲曲绕过许多小山、巨石、河流和树林。有些路段因灌木茂密变得难以辨认。唯一能安慰人的是，茂盛的野花因为没有游人的脚踏手采，开得漫山遍野，春意盎然。 The road was long and tedious；and I didn't even see a living thing like a deer. In boredom I was planning, unconsciously some shortcuts for the return trip. 这路也忒长，路途让人觉得枯燥寂寞！一路没不见生物，连一只鹿也没有。脑子空了就边走边想回来时如何缩短路程。 I found Rock Lake around 10 o'clock. Then I had to hurry back to make the midday departure from the campground at Lake Alpine. Such a hurry eventually contributed to my being lost. Up a ridge I thought I could cut a direct line across a seemingly flat forest floor. But no, the trail was never to be found. 十点钟左右到了岩湖。不能久留，得即刻回返，因为约好中午离开营地。这一匆忙也是让我走失的另一因素。上了一个山脊，我自以为能穿过一片看似平坦的林子再回到山路上。只是那山路从此没了踪影。 Now between me and the campground were large territory of rock ridges and deep gorges. The sun was high and the rocks were reflecting heat back into the air, scorchingly hot. 挡在回程的路上有一大片巨大的石梁和峡谷，烈阳当头，从石头反射的炽热在灼烧着空气里的一切。 The walking and climbing part was hard but it was something I could manage, for I was in reasonable shape. The feeling of being lost, however, wasn't that marvelous. I remember that earlier in the morning when I passed some huge rocks, I thought that I would tell my son where my ashes should be scattered after I die. The doubt in the mind was: would I ever get back to my son to tell him where exactly those rocks were? 山道艰辛，但我体力尚好，还能应对。只是这迷路的感觉不甚美妙！早上看到一些石山，曾想到回去告诉儿子过世后应该将骨灰撒在那里。可现在的头脑已不能肯定能不能回得去。回不去如何告诉儿子那巨石的具体位置？ Thank goodness, it was an exceptionally bright day, for from miles away I could see the Inspiration Point I went up last evening. It was a weird looking mount, composed of half-baked dirt (volcanic lava) and reddish rocks, but appeared rather unique thus easily recognized among granite peaks and pine groves. 天公作美，今儿个天高气爽！好几里之外也能看到灵感崖，昨晚我还上去过哩。一座怪里怪气的山包，火山岩浆色土石堆成，在一片石山和松林之间还很惹眼呢。 I might have prolonged my trip by jumping over huge rocks and wading through rivers. But I did get back to the campground only about half hour behind schedule. 这一通攀岩涉水也许延长了我的旅途，但我回到了营地，只比预定时间只晚半小时多些。 The lesson of the day was: when you become lost, in the mountains or not, stay calm. In the mountains, if you recognize a point of familiarity, aim at it and cut a straight line towards it. Of course, to get to that point, one must overcome any harsh obstacles in between, be it a huge mountain or a deep river. Go straight, you will be back eventually. Only when one can overcome the seemingly impossible, it becomes possible to get back. Finally, impossibility or despair only exists in one's mind. In other words, most of the time we are overcoming ourselves to come home. 教训是深刻的：如果迷路，深山中也罢，平地上也好，首先要保持头脑冷静。在山里，如果能看到一个熟悉的景点，照直朝那儿走。这一路肯定会遇到一些巨大障碍，山高水深。但不能犹豫，一直往前走，就能走出去。一个人只有战胜了一切不可能，才能到达终点。许多时候不可能和绝望只是内心的感觉而已。说到底，要想回家，就必须克服自己。 Once back, don't relay your adventure to immature people. What I don't like is that those who had no experience of harsh or extreme conditions love to lecture others what "you should" or "you shouldn't do." 回来了，一般不要向不成熟的人讲什么历险记。那些没有经历任何极端困难的人动撤就开口教训别人 “ 应该 ” 或 “ 不应该 ” 做什么，听起来很烦的。 You do what you have to do, in life, and you accept all the consequences, even though some consequences are really, really bad. 这就是生活：你做了该做的，然后坦然面对结局，即使那结局很糟，很糟 ……