Tomas Maier
不要嫌我啰嗦，我对Maier是十分喜爱的，主要是他对事物的态度与看法。在旧杂志上看到此文，摘录于此。现在也学聪明了，摘录加注，编译起来太累，况且大家都识洋文，就不必脱裤子放P。
"Often in fashion companies, there is tension and drama. There are too many personalities and divas," remarks Finnish stylist Tiina Laakkonen, a Chanel alum who has now worked with Maier for two seasons. "But here, nobody's nervous. Nobody's dramatic; nobody shouts. And," she adds, "it's always like that."
不管事情有多忙，表面上看上去都要镇静，自信，有条不紊。哪怕有千斤重担，都不要写在脸上，免得引起更大范围的恐慌。早点计划，好好准备，考虑可能出现的意外并想好对策，就不会慌乱。山崩于前而色不变。
If the 50-year-old Maier is a consistent voice of reason among hysteria-prone designers, his products for Bottega Veneta are the ultimate understatement in a world of look-at-me luxury goods. With no logos, no unsightly hardware, no gimmicks, and certainly no gadgets, Bottega Veneta products do not whine for attention. Maier, who started at the 42-year-old Italian luxury-goods house in 2001 after working at Hermès, will not put up with a screamer.
不同性格的人，喜欢不同的东西。我喜欢湮没在人群中，躲在后面看热闹，最怕被摆到台面上，没出息啊。
Take the Cabat (from the French cabas, or shopping basket), one of the first bags he designed for Bottega Veneta. Made from four layers of woven napa leather, this open bag is entirely embellishment, branding, and bling free. For two days, its leather strands are lovingly woven together over a rectangular model by a little lady in a crisp brown lab coat at Bottega's factory in
嘿嘿，就是喜欢下过功夫做的东西。上次有篇文章上说Cabat是Working Bag的意思，当时就觉得有点牵强，Shopping Basket更符合包型，不就是“菜篮子”吗？
"I always like an object that is as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside," says Maier of its impeccable construction. "That's what luxury is all about. It's very personal. Nobody needs to know."
对啊，要的就是暗爽。不明白的人也不用明白，只有自己高兴就行，所以个人的感受最重要。
"I don't like It bags, and we don't do It bags," he says firmly. "A bag doesn't become important because you put it in an ad campaign or on the arm of a celebrity or because it's the bag of the season and you say there's a waiting list. That's bullshit. It's just marketing. People always talk about these bags being unavailable, and it's total crap."
严重同意。至今为止，没买任何IT包，他们都没能打动我。不论是机车还是大锁，到后来就不知道谁是ＩＴ了。希望拥有的东西能长久，不管是爱情，还是包包，还是一件衣服。有点一根筋。
At Bottega, a style stays in the collection as long as there is demand for it. "A bag becomes important because women decide," says Maier. Without the maelstrom of one-season promotion, the bags are given their time to take root and become favorites. Each season, Maier tinkers with their design, perfecting invisible imperfections. They are not poisoned by overexposure, they do not go on sale, and they are never deemed out of style by their maker.
"First square, now round! No, you're supposed to buy oversize!" shouts Maier, cringing at the usual fashion diktats charged seasonally by designers. "No, you're stupid, you were supposed to buy the fringes! Personally, I think it's wrong."
The idea of creating either clothing or accessories that are cool now and destined for the back of the closet next year is "completely contrary to my process," declares Maier. "I tell a woman that something is good, and then six months later I tell her it's good again." Largely, this works because of Maier's progressive design process. Each ready-to-wear collection, which he first debuted on the runway in 2004, grows organically from the last. He isn't shocking the fashion world or making abrupt about-face style statements. He prefers to work out design problems and to perfect already existing items rather than reinvent the wheel. His latest obsession is pleats, which were created for a new spring/summer dress in weightless cotton poplin. "I'm really fond of that because it's not easy to do," he says of the irregular pattern that was pinned, pressed, and stitched down by hand. And then there's the built-in underwear he insisted on for his sheer dresses. "If you bought this dress and there was no undergarment, you'd be searching around for days for the right underwear and wondering what the solution was. That's not fair. If you design something, you need to design it all the way through."
That is owing to the expertise of Bottega's artisans, some of whom have been working in the factory for more than 40 years. The bags and clothes receive as much hand-holding as kindergartners and are just as spoiled. Maier, for example, would never scrimp on their handcrafted quality in order to create a secondary line. "I'm not going to give the same product at lower prices," he says, wincing. "What would my customer think of that?"
不生产二线衣服。我的意思也是，如果没有最好的或买不起最好的，宁缺不求其次。小时候，我妈带去买衣服，我什么都不买，我妈还以为我是好孩子，知道勤俭，殊不知是没看上。
The beauty of Maier's clothing is its quiet simplicity, which often betrays the complicated, well-thought-out construction lurking beneath the surface. You may not see any of this because Maier loathes unnecessary statements. "I hate decorative details that have no purpose," he notes. "I love buckles, for example, but I hate it when I see a jacket covered with buckles that have snaps behind them and it's all fake."
And if some people don't appreciate the subtlety at work, well, that's fine with this designer. "I'm just trying to make some people who are looking for something particular happy," Maier says with a sigh, aware that even he cannot change the taste buds of the world's population. "I'm not a dictator and I'm not a judge. Let the people live."
品味是可以发展和变化的，也是可以被影响的。你们就是我的影响。给我时间去认知更多，给我耐心去完善。
你该减点了。
