欧洲骑行（7）— 意大利 Pfunds（奥地利）to Rasia Reschen am See

9/16 VCA第六天

晴，气温：6-20度。Pfunds（奥地利） to Rasia Reschen am See（意大利）30公里，2500英尺攀升

今天虽然只骑了短短的30公里，却翻过了一个山口（Reschen Pass) 经过了三个国家：从奥地利出发，经过瑞士，到达意大利。

其实今天的Reschenpass和昨天的Fernpass骑行的升高差不多，但是Fernpass的自行车道是沿着古罗马的老路，全程碎石，下山尤其陡峭险峻。而Reschenpass的自行车道最陡峭的部分（11道急转弯）是沿着本地小公路修的自行车线（大卡车和主要交通都不走这里）。所以今天这个山口咱们要骑上去！

今晚住的小镇有个很长的名字“Rasia Reschen am See“。事出反常必有故事：话说第一次世界大战后，奥匈帝国战败，被意大利将这一片大好河山割了去（包括世界闻名的旅游胜地多洛米蒂山区Dolomites)。Reschen是这里原来奥地利的德文名字，而意大利将其改名叫Rasia，am See 是德文的”湖边“。国籍改了，可本地居民们没变，那些世世代代说德语的原奥地利人虽然现在变成意大利人了，却还是习惯用德文的老名字。于是为了两边不得罪，本地名就变成了德语+意大利两个名称的叠加。

1、沿着碧色的因河，朝着山中云雾之处骑行

2、路上的景色和湍急的因河

3、因河畔的Altfinstermunz 是古罗马大道上的城堡和关卡。有关Altfinstermunz的介绍在文后。

左上：比我们早来一步的自行车大队伍从古堡里鱼贯而出；右下：古罗马时代的大轮子和中世纪的小轮子都在这里的岩石上留下了印记。

4、古城堡之后又是陡峭的山坡，LD爬得很辛苦

5、上：骑过奥地利和瑞士国境；下：从奥地利进入意大利

6、挑战来了！翻越Reschenpass。上：看到公路转弯处的“10”号标牌吗？一共有11个这样的急转弯，才能到达山口。下：在第5个转弯后，往下看，已经爬了很高了。可是，还有6个更高的弯要爬！

7、Yes！我们骑上来了！放眼望去，山那边一路下坡！

8、路上。右下：今天的目的地Rasia Reschen am See在望。

9、我的晚餐：蔬菜沙拉和烤鲈鱼。我俩一人一杯酒，庆祝今天胜利骑过Reschen pass。下图：超市里卖的各种香肠和火腿，第一种香肠是马肉和猪肉混合的。

吃完晚饭回到旅馆，到桑拿房去好好蒸了蒸，把6天来的疲劳驱除体外。明天在Reschen休整一天。

 

Altfinstermunz

Finstermünz (from 1856 Altfinstermünz, Romanish Vestmezia) is a medieval courthouse and border fortification on Via Claudia Augusta in the Finstermünz Gorge of the same name. The festival is located in the municipal area of Nauders in Tyrol, at the foot of the Finstermünz Pass, where the old road from the Reschen Pass, which was used until 1854, reaches the Inn in the direction of Pfunds and Landeck, which forms the border between Tyrol (Austria) and Graubünden (Switzerland). Here was already before the 10th. Century a court seat.

History

The Roman Via Claudia Augusta over the Reschen Pass, which led past Finstermünz, was one of the most important Alpine transitions until the 2nd century AD. Only with the expansion of the Brennerstraße did the connection only have regional significance.

In the early Middle Ages, the territory of Churrätien, which was subordinated to the diocese of Chur, which ruled the Inn Valley from the southwest to Finstermünz, formed from the Raetia prima. From there to the northeast, the former Raetia belonged to the diocese of Säben-Brixen. Around 550, the western half of the ancient Raetia up to the Lech was under Frankish sovereignty, the eastern half belonged to the Duchy of Bavaria. From 9th to 11th In the 1st century, Altfinstermünz was the place of court for the region of Lower Engadin, Nauders and Pfunds. In 1078, Duke Welf of Bavaria stationed an occupation in the war war against the bishops of Chur in the "Clusa" (nenge or cloister of Altfinstermünz). In 1159, Altfinstermünz was first mentioned in a document as "Vinestana silva" ("forest of Finstermünz"). The word Finstermünz comes from the Indo-European mintsja in the meaning "proting rock". Etymologically plausible is also a derivation of Venosta resp. Vinschgau, so Vinschgermünz, customs station on the way to / from Vinschgau.

From about 1300, customs duties were already collected here; however, the oldest toll tariffs have only been handed down from 1534. After 1472, Archduke Sigismund of Austria had the Siegmundsegg border fortification and a bridge over the Inn at this strategically favorable location.