At Milan Fashion Week, Designers Offer Visions for the Future
The Milan Fashion Week collections ended on Sunday with a guest appearance by American designer Tommy Hilfiger, whose race car runway set a new speed-to-market record for fast fashion. There was a pop-up shop constructed right in the middle of the track. But even before that, there were several examples in Milan of designers who are cleverly adapting to a world where turmoil has become commonplace, and consumers need new reasons to buy.
Francesco Risso’s Marni collection on Sunday morning was one of the highlights of the week (some were calling it the best show of Milan), with its combination of weird sweeping-bell silhouettes and quirky cat prints on voluminous coats. I’m quite sure a lot of street style stars are currently trying to get their paws on the pink one, and I’d place a bet on seeing someone wearing it in Paris. Laminated raincoats in bright blue and green brought lively pops of color throughout the show, and many dresses were spliced together with crude stitches, suggesting they had been recycled from the scraps of discarded garments.
The setting played with the theme of production, and the environmental problems associated with over-production, which are especially visible in fashion. Guests found themselves sitting on benches made of piles of old clothes, bags of blazers, bales of dress shirts, undergarments bagged in plastic, or stacks of old newspapers, which could easily be read as Risso’s acknowledgement that all of this—while great today—will soon be yesterday’s news.
Lucie and Luke Meier, the excellent new designers at Jil Sander, were more explicit in their intent to create clothes for modern times. Their padded coats incorporated attachable blankets, and nomadic models carried pillows and duvets, accessories that were both comforting and a little frightening. If we get to the point where we literally have to survive with the clothes off our backs, I doubt anyone is going to be worried about doing so stylishly or in a multi-thousand dollar coat. But they were fabulous, nevertheless, and will make wonderful conversation pieces for the most discerning of socially conscious customers.
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