Under the Milky Way 6: From Puente la Reina to Estella

6/3，today’s itinerary – from Puente la Reina to Estella, 22 km

Day six, Saturday. I left the albergue at 6:30am. Mountains afar, water clear, birds chirping – what a feast to my senses! I felt wide awake and ready for the day. Minutes later, I came to the 360-feet long Queen’s Bridge. It looked so different during the day. When I walked around its surrounding with my friend Kelly last night, it was covered by darkness, lit by colorful nights. When the colors of the lights changed, I imagined a high level of mystery to it, it appeared almost unreal, or perhaps its presence simply for a show decorated by lights. Now when I stepped on it, its aged sleepy solemn look presented to the world, with its pride of history, its thoughtfulness, love and kindness to the pilgrims. After all, its original intention to be there was for the pilgrims, so that, long ago, they didn’t have to walk around the river for miles extra to get to a location. https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E9%93%81%E6%A1%A5_(%E5%A1%94%E6%8B%89%E9%9F%A6%E6%8B%89-%E5%BE%B7%E6%8B%89%E9%9B%B7%E7%BA%B3)

Continuing west, the landscape seemed to have changed quite a lot. There were less of mountain ranges, or winding ascending and descending trails, and more sights of endless fields and vineyards.

Beginning of June must be the beginning of summer here, the clear sky showed a blue hue. What a visual pleasure it was! Some crops seemed to be about ready for harvest, yet one could hardly see anyone working in the field. The power and advantage of modernization on farming! 

The walking distance today was moderate. I could definitely take my time. Perhaps begin with finding a place for breakfast and coffee, and rest a bit? The bottom of my feet still felt the sensation of the rocks from the traumatic experience of walking with my ultra thin flip flops. (I did it to myself. Deserve it!!)

Vineyard after vineyard. I wonder what it might look like in harvest season. Would it be like huge clusters of grapes weighing the plants down, the fields all smelling like red and white wine??

There it was, a village ahead, the first village of the day, and it looked grand!! I covered 5.21 km this morning. My tummy sensed plenty of good food here.

Maneru is a small town (online information, also according to a Camino App). In a stretch of 13 square kilometers, its year-round population is about 436. The architecture designs and the overall planning of the town do not lack signs of the Middle Ages. 

While walking in the wilderness, I deeply felt the vastness of nature, and the insignificance of self.  Mankind claims its greatness – is it because we could use words to brag ourselves? Whereas Nature itself remains massive and great, yet, without words, without bragging, it simply exists for “eternity” and continues to be significant, disregarding what humans have to say? Is that what it is??

In the middle of the town, some people were getting ready for a weekend event – a fair? Tents were up, furniture was set up to display all kinds of products. I tasted a slice of bread, extra virgin olive oil drizzled on it, with some sea salt and seasonings. How tasty! I was too busy sampling the food to take pictures. Look at the succulents – were they fighting for more space away from the rail, or for more attention and glory?  

The ultrasimple life on the Camino taught me something very realistic and important – I could like something, and could love many things, but never had to buy anything! Whatever I have purchased, or have stuffed in my backpack would have to be carried by myself for miles and miles and for days to come! Would I be willing to do that?  

There was not much to “distract” me today. I spent most of the time focusing on walking, enjoying whatever came my way. My face was already quite tanned, revealing uneven brown spots. Heck with it! It was about 10am local time, and my walk was almost over.

I felt that I didn’t walk enough distance today. Definitely not enough! By going this pace, I might not finish the walk on time!! 

Changes must be made…

Lots of such crops along part of the trail. Were these broad beans? 

For the moment, thick clouds covered the sky, thank God! Without the sunbake, I felt happier! 

The sighting of the next village gave me hope again. I must be really close to my destination. 

By now, I have walked 150 km. I jumped with joy, looking like an idiot, a lunatic!!  Who cares! No one there knew me anyway.

Got to another town, Villatuerta, population – close to 1,200, a town full of artistic expressions!  

After crossing a bridge, and crossing another one, I would arrive at today’s albergue – the first building on the right. It was 11:53am. I was the first one to arrive! That was a personal record. 

The albergue was not open yet. The future days had to be better planned. It was a shame that I checked in so early. Shouldn’t I spend more time on the Way, to experience more of the Camino spirit?

 

This evening, I was assigned to stay in a four-person room, all female. Would there be any snorers among us? Got a bed of my choice, yeah! I didn’t have to climb to an upper bunk. What a luxury!! I cleaned up myself, washed my clothes, set them out to dry, and stepped out for food-hunting… 

Estella is a city to the southwest of Pamplona, population over 13,000. Some buildings here show their signs of history. That day happened to be a day for the Annual Road Bicycle Race (Gran Premio Miguel Indurain). There was a small-scale bike race going on as I walked in town. The light drizzle turned to a downpour. Without any rain gear with me, I had to run all the way back to the albergue. Too bad that I didn’t get to witness the bike race! 

A “must-do” for a pilgrim each day – hunting for food. One either has to find a supermarket, to get some healthy food, along with some junk food, some type of drinks, all in all, to balance the intakes, to console the weary muscles and joints, the starved body, and the exhausted being…

The day ended like that, pretty much. The App on my phone showed about 26 km of walking. My instinct reminded me, warned me – I got to push a little hard. Should I? 

It was a special day today. By chance, I met with a brave young lady, Li, from mainland China. She actually had the bed next to mine, I later realized. She was the first person I met who directly came from mainland China during the Camino. Some days to come, we would meet, walk some sections together, dine, explore and share some goods and bads together.

Perhaps our coincidental meet was what some pilgrims called "Camino Miracles!"

Keywords for the day:

Face (reality)