Every morning, our team's routine was to have breakfast at seven and gather at eight. Our luggage was stacked together and carried to the next stop by the travel company. Before setting out, Claude, a physical therapist from Quebec, led everyone in arm exercises to warm up and prepare for the upcoming hike. This had become our team's morning ritual.
Through a cliffside trail, we reached the mid-slope, where the gentle morning sun illuminated the charming valley town below. Claude, in the red T-shirt, and his wife Danielle were an affectionate couple, both gracious and understanding. They had two sons, and the father and sons all worked in the healthcare industry. Danielle humorously remarked, "They take care of people's physical bodies, and I take care of their mental health," as she was a psychotherapist.
I can imagine that Danielle must be an incredibly capable psychotherapist, not only because of her gentle nature but also because she is an exceptional listener. She genuinely shows interest in and willingness to understand the lives and cultural backgrounds of those she converses with. What's even more remarkable is that our communication with Danielle in English was seamless. With her understanding and empathy, she naturally became our translator. The word "compassion" aptly summarizes Danielle's character.
Our family's first trip to Europe was in Switzerland, and we hold a deep love and nostalgia for Switzerland's picturesque landscapes. In this moment, with the morning sun casting its soft glow on the graceful curves of the Alpine peaks, the tender green meadows, and the charming little cottages nestled within, the winding paths create a breathtaking and enchanting morning scene. It's a sight that truly captivates the heart.
The Trient Valley not only boasts beautiful landscapes and ancient glaciers but also has a history as a military stronghold during World War II. Switzerland shares its western border with France, and Trient is the closest point to France in the same valley. In the nearby town of Martigny, there is a narrow-gauge railway known as the "Mont-Blanc Express" that connects to Chamonix at the foot of Mont Blanc. During World War II, the Swiss military constructed fifteen military bunkers in Trient to block any potential incursion by Hitler from the west through France into Switzerland. These bunkers were equipped with anti-tank defenses and heavy machine guns, positioned advantageously on the mountainside, and played a crucial role in defending Switzerland's rear. From 1946 to 1989 during the Cold War period, the Swiss military continued to maintain and protect these bunkers as a precaution against potential military conflicts between NATO and the Soviet Union.
Leaving the beautiful Trient behind, you once again found yourself embraced by the mountains. A group of hikers formed an elegant formation along the trail.
Women's power knows no bounds!
On the mountain, there was a cross with several lines of French text inscribed on it. Claude told me that it was a French poem.
English:
When the evening dew falls
and the stars shine,
We remember the sweet times of the past, when you were among us. And tol, will you come near to us, if it is given to you
find those who
you lived on earth,
when you are happy in Heaven?
This poem may have been written in memory of someone who had a deep love for the Alps, whether he was a hiker, cyclist, or off-road runner. The sorrow and longing for the departed person expressed in the poem were deeply touching. When I thought about the tragic news of my son's friend that I just learned the day before, this poem feeled like it could have been written for this young person. Though his life was short at 25, his enthusiasm, kindness, and love for life, career, friends, and family had a profound impact on those around him. He is the person we think of when the night falls, and the stars shine – someone who continues to inspire and motivate us to cherish the present and live our lives to the fullest.
Our guide Nicholas was from Tignes, a French border town adjacent to Italy. Tignes is a renowned high-altitude skiing destination in France, part of the Espace Killy area. Espace Killy produced the legendary Jean-Claude Killy, who won three gold medals in the 1968 Winter Olympics. Given the excellent skiing conditions in the region, Nicholas worked as a skiing instructor during the winter and collaborated with travel companies like Alpine Attitude as a hiking and sailing guide during the summer. Currently, Nicholas has also started on running his own company - "Nicolas Bourdier: Emotion Creator." During our TMB trek, he also discussed the design of his company's logo with the website designers and sought feedback from our group members.
The logo on his website depicted a hand supporting a mountain, symbolizing curiosity, exploration, and reverence for nature. He emphasized, "This isn't just a job; I want to convey my desire to lead friends in exploring and loving this land."
From left to right, we have Genevieve, Nicholas, Liuza, and Monique. Genevieve and Monique were friends with complementary personalities who have known each other for many years. Unlike the cheerful and lively Genevieve, Monique was introspective, gentle, and quiet, but she was, in fact, a seasoned traveler. Since her retirement one or two years ago, she purchased an RV and explored the beautiful sceneries of Canada and the northeastern United States. She has visited places like Smoky National Park, Shenandoah National Park, and the Blue Ridge Parkway. When I mentioned the wild horses in Beaufort, she mentioned that she had plans to visit but, unfortunately, the weather wasn't coperating so that remained on her bucket list.
Luiza, a beautiful girl from Brazil, was the youngest member of our team, but surprisingly, she was also an experienced traveler. She looked like a college student in her twenties even though she was out of college a couple of years ago. While in college, she studied abroad in Newcastle, North England for a semester. After graduating and working for a construction company, she decided to quit her job and started her four-month trip to Europe.
Besides her own savings, Luiza's journey was mainly funded through Workaway (https://www.workaway.info), a popular concept among young people worldwide. Workaway offers job opportunities that are somewhat like voluntary work, such as farm labor, house construction, work at animal clinics, refugee centers, childcare, marketing assistance for small businesses, and more. Although employees don't receive financial compensation, they get free food and accommodation and have the opportunity to travel to different countries, experiencing various customs and cultures. Sometimes they would learn new skills along the way.
Many of us who have immigrated to other countries may relate to Luiza's experiences, as we've also gone through studying abroad, seeking degrees, building families, and raising children. One main difference, however, is our focus has been mainly on the suvival mode and job securiry instead of traveling all around the world and going for a dream adventure. Naturally, I asked her about her plans after her travels. She hasn't made a decision yet and said, "I'll figure it out!" From Luiza, I got to know that Brazil was once a Portuguese colony, and as a result, Portuguese is the official language of Brazil. Although many Brazilians have migrated to Portugal, the local Portuguese don't particularly like Brazilians, and even after Brazilian immigrants live in Portugal for an extended period, they are still often subject to discrimination by the locals. Luiza, dreaming of living at a place other than Brazil, has many issues to tackle, such as the immigration process, obtaining a visa, pursuing advanced degree, finding employment, and figuring out how to accommodate her beloved but non-traveling mother.
I felt such a deep connection after hearing Luiza's story. I still remember myself and my friends at this age, most of us were in a state of uncertainty and confusion. We didn't know what our future life would look like and where we would be; we immigrated to the United States but often felt guilty for not being able to take care of our aging parents; we also faced various difficulties and setbacks in our pursuit in the past years... Having said that, I was somewhat relieved to hear Luiza said she has never been happier. She was very sweet and kind-hearted, she got along well with everyone in the group; she had a team spirit and sometimes had to give us a friendly reminder when we lost track of time while taking too many pictures. As we were the only English-speaking members in the group, she affectionately referred to me and Hongbo as her "English-speaking friends."
Here we met three cyclists who were also touring du Mont Blanc). Our hiking speed averaged 15-22 kilometers per day, while they cover 40-50-60 kilometers per day on their bikes. Many of the trails we've hiked so far had steep inclines, cliffs, or rocky terrain. It was hard to imagine how these cyclists managed to ride on such rough, natural trails. It must require incredible physical strength, endurance, and balance!
In the mountains, there were many blueberries and red berries along the way. They were smaller than the ones you find in supermarkets but incredibly sweet and delicious.
Our group was enjoying lunch on a delightful autumn trail. Our guide, Nicholas, indeed worked really hard. After each day's hike, while the rest of us either took showers, rest, checked our phones to shared photos, or leisurely enjoyed a drink, he had to use the food supplies provided by the travel company to prepare lunch for everyone the next day and pack it into lunch boxes.
The Swiss cowbells on the Alps are perhaps just as famous worldwide as their watches and chocolates. You can hear the "ding-dong, ding-dong..." of the cowbells from a great distance. Switzerland was historically an agriculture and livestock-based country, and each spring, after the mountain pastures had been nurtured over the winter and enriched with cow dung, the grass became incredibly lush. Farmers would send their cows up into the mountains to graze, and they would stay there until the autumn when the cows were strong and well-fed. Some cheese factories were also established in the mountains. Each cow wore its own unique cowbell, making it easier for the owner to manage and locate the herd.
Amidst the snow-covered high mountains, the lush green pastures, and the fresh and sweet air, herds of carefree cows that knew nothing of human worries enjoyed the beautiful natural environment, absorbed the essence of nature, and, in turn, they provided the Swiss people with exquisite delicacies. Swiss people use ancient traditional methods, fresh milk materials, and meticulous handcrafting to create the unique Swiss cheeses in the world. We had delicious local cheeses with every meal at the mountain huts, and I'd describe the unforgettable cheese dinner we enjoyed in La Fouly on the second night later.
After a 7.5-hour hike with a 1,200-meter alevation gain, we reached our destination for the day, the Relais d'Arpette Refuge in Champex-Lac. This refuge was nestled in the midst of lush greenery and was probably one of the most comfortable accommodations along our TMB route. With a history of over a century and being run by the same family for four generations, the exterior may not seem remarkable, but the interior has been meticulously renovated, and everything was fresh and clean. While the rooms were not that spacious, they offered an incredibly relaxing and comfortable atmosphere.
Surrounded by the majestic peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif, the backyard of the refuge was like a large football field, and there were shaded rest areas and laundry lines for drying clothes. A cool mountain stream flowed right in front of the door, creating an idyllic, car-free paradise in the midst of the mountains.
Such a simple yet beautiful little window view!
The fourth day of hiking started in the beautiful and serene Champex-Lac. The tranquility of the lake resembled the lakes in the Canadian Rockies. Since we were hiking through, we didn't have much time to linger in Champex. However, a quick search would reveal that Champex-Lac is often referred to as Switzerland's hidden gem, especially in winter. The stunning snow-covered peaks and the pristine blue lake transform this lesser-known village into a picturesque fairy tale world, truly awe-inspiring.
Starting from Champex, this day took us southward through Val Ferret valley until we reached La Fouly. Along the way, as we weave through the forests, there are numerous wood carvings: wild boars, squirrels, goats, various mushrooms, all intricately crafted, full of delightful surprises, almost like discovering hidden treasures for the hikers.
Marie, the Quebecois girl, had traveled with her father before, but this time, it was a special opportunity to hike the TMB with him. Marie was a cheerful, sweet, and kind-hearted young lady who, along with Danielle, assisted with English-French translation during our trip. Although she was formerly a French teacher, she changed her career a few years ago and now worked in the human resources department at a company. Marie mentioned that many people dread the HR department, and some even fear it, but her approach to her job was to help employees and provide them with the best and most timely resources. She believeed that she was a friend to the employees. Over the course of several days, I grew quite fond of Marie. She acted as the glue in our group, not only having enjoyable conversations with the French-speaking members but also engaging in thoughtful discussions with the three of us who spoke English. We talked about our work lives, Luiza's European travels, her job and social life in Montreal, and more. One small incident illustrated Marie's closeness to her father and her thoughtfulness: one day at the dining table, her father accidentally spilled an excessive amount of pepper. Without hesitation, Marie scooped up the extra pepper from her father's plate into her own. I'm convinced that she must be a great colleague at work and a warm, reliable, and caring friend in personal life.
Luiza had a great love for animals. Seeing a few little cows by the roadside, she joyfully played with them for a while. In two weeks, she'd be going to a small town near Chamonix to help with house construction on a farm, and I imagined she'd get to meet even more animals there.
Turning over the mountain, the scene suddenly opened up, presenting a picturesque landscape before your eyes. The mountains stood like beautiful eyebrows, green grass covered the land, the houses had a rustic charm, and the streets exuded an elegant atmosphere. This was the stunning Val Ferret valley nestled between two major mountain ranges. The captivating Swiss village and the scenic beauty made you want to pause and linger, wishing for time to stand still, just a little longer... and a little longer.
The Alps are not only home to the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) trek but also the famous Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB), an endurance race known as one of Europe's most challenging trail races. The UTMB covers a distance of 170 kilometers with a total elevation gain of 10,000 meters, spanning across three countries: France, Italy, and Switzerland. The race begins in Chamonix, France, and passes through many of the same villages we've encountered on our TMB journey. The UTMB event for 2023 concluded just two weeks ago. The photos below illustrate the excitement and participation in the race in the same villages we visited.
La Fouly, located halfway up the Val Ferret valley, was a charming skiing village with blooming flowers adorning its streets. Outside the refuge where we were staying, a large bowl of sliced cake and lemonade awaited, serving as a sweet treat for guests even before their arrival. The refuge's interior featured narrow stairs but also had an outdoor terrace for guests to relax, chat, and sun-dry their clothes. On the second floor, there was an entertainment room with various board games, cards, and chess, creating a relaxing and enjoyable atmosphere similar to the hostels we've experienced on our journey.
The much-anticipated dinner turned out to be a special feast, starting with a hearty mushroom cream soup. Each table was equipped with a small grill, and every person had their individual grilling tray. The staff brought a large pot of cooked potatoes and a platter of evenly sliced thick cheese. French-speaking members of the group explained to us that this was the Swiss traditional dish, Raclette. According to ChatGPT's explanation: "Raclette" is a traditional Swiss food, usually translated into Chinese as "Swiss Cheese Fondue" or "Swiss Cheese Grill." It typically involves melted cheese (primarily Swiss cheese) poured over boiled potatoes, vegetables, ham, and other ingredients. This dish is often accompanied by pickled onions, gherkins, and other side dishes. "Raclette" also refers to the cooking method of melting and spreading cheese over other ingredients.
The melted cheese poured over the boiled potatoes was soft, creamy, and delicious, with a stretchy texture that was absolutely delightful. Paired with pickles and salami, the combination was rich and savory, offering a unique and delightful taste experience for someone like me who was trying it for the first time.
Claude and Danielle bought white wine for everyone, marking the beginning of the warm tradition of treating each other in our hiking group. As the ancient saying goes, "Grapes, fine wine, and the moonlight in a cup, desire to drink while urging the lute," and on this evening at the small mountain lodge, we enjoyed the wine and conversed with each other, savoring the unique Swiss cheese fondue. The day's fatigue from hiking disappeared, and we relished this wonderful experience.
Waking up early in the morning and looking out from our room, the view was like a fairyland. Unlike the clear, beautiful days we had in the past few days with blue skies and fluffy clouds, the misty and rainy morning today was both enchanting and slightly worrisome. It was raining, and we wondered how the day's hike would unfold in these conditions.
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