陀飞轮装置与钻石媲美(组图)

　　相同的表款，有陀飞轮装置的，一下子就贵出十倍！所以，把陀飞轮与钻石媲美，绝对有过之而无不及。

　　从另一个角度说，腕表表盘上的陀飞轮和钻石一样，更像是一种奢华的装饰。以前，陀飞轮只应用在垂直放置的怀表上，地心引力对于腕表来说并非要害，可是，真正的制表大师愿意用“陀飞轮”来彰显品牌实力，而腕表的主人，则愿意用这种精致而昂贵的机械装置炫耀身份与品位。尤其是男人，复杂机械对他们具有神秘的吸引力。

　　或许，这就是陀飞轮成为大热门的原因。

　　讲述陀飞轮，肯定会涉及不少机械方面的知识，如果你对机械“不感冒”，读起来肯定形同嚼蜡。所以，本文特为你准备了菜鸟版文字，作为谈资也可以冒充专家

具有Helwig陀飞轮装置的格拉苏蒂腕表

　　 DANIEL ROTH陀飞轮腕表，是陀飞轮中的佼佼者，虽然以珠宝作为装饰，但是掩盖不住自身的高超技术体现，8天动力储存功能保证了陀飞轮机构的长时间运转。

Breguet陀飞轮

　　三种陀飞轮

　　Tourbillon在法语中代表“旋转”的意思，也意味着陀飞轮装置的转动。三种陀飞轮，如果从外观上看，就是不同的旋转动态。

　　Breguet陀飞轮，陀飞轮的最初模样

　　1801年，制表奇才Breguet取得陀飞轮的专利权。这个伟大的发明有一个能够旋转的框架，其中容纳了游丝摆轮（机芯的心脏）和擒纵器等构件。当飞轮框架在均匀地旋转时，摆轮和擒纵器也在自身运动的同时不断地改换位置，因此最大限度地抵消了引力的影响（尤其是表被垂直的放置时作用更为明显）。从一只19世纪初为土耳其市场制造的Breguet怀表中，我们可以发现当年陀飞轮的模样。

　　Breguet陀飞轮由“旋转框架”和“固定支架”两部分基本构件组成。“摆轮夹板”附属在旋转框架中，随飞轮一起旋转。

　　Helwig陀飞陀，飞陀框架悬浮飞行

　　1927年，钟表学教授Alfred Helwig在德国制作了“飞行陀飞轮”的模型，之所以会出现“飞行”二字，是因为在这种结构中没有了“固定支架”构件，从外观看上去，取消了横在飞轮结构上的支架，整个旋转框架是悬浮起来的，提高了飞轮表运转时的神秘感和动态艺术美，自然，制造工艺也更高超。

　　中国陀飞轮，神秘的旋转艺术

　　千万别以为陀飞轮只是瑞士钟表大师的专利，1993年，中国人矫大羽在香港的“天仪轩”钟表工作室，首创发明并亲手制造成功了“神奇陀飞轮”，这一破天荒的发明迅速轰动了国际钟表界，所以它也被称为“矫氏神奇陀飞轮”或“中国陀飞轮”。为什么称之为“神奇”呢？原因有二：一、传统的飞轮“旋转框架”与“固定支架”都不存在了；至少减轻了飞轮的一半重量，提高走时的精度和稳定性，同时增强了防震的性能。二、使用透明玻璃替代了原本用金属制造的摆轮夹板，而且这块夹板不再随着飞轮一起转动。这种结构在运转时显得更加神秘莫测，大大提高了飞轮表的动感艺术。

什么是陀飞轮

　　“陀飞轮”(Tourbillon)，是指机械钟表中的“旋转擒纵调速机构”，这种装置的特点是摆轮和擒纵机构在自身运行的同时还能够一起作360度旋转，所以最大限度减小了地心引力的影响，提高了走时精度。它代表了机械表制造工艺中的极高水平，由于其独特的运行方式，已经把钟表的动感艺术美发挥到登峰造极的地步，所以装配有陀飞轮装置的表款往往价值不斐。具体是多少？３０万人民币以上吧。

　　菜鸟谈资：表在不同角度受到的地心引心不同，会造成细微的误差，陀飞轮就是克服这种误差的精密装置，让表平放竖放走得一样精准。它的重量不超过0.3克，却由七十多个精细组件组成，大部分为手工制作，这就是它昂贵的原因。

　　陀飞轮看上去很美

　　菜鸟谈资：在怀表时代,陀飞轮表往往将其陀飞轮装置隐藏在表壳之内，而现在，陀飞轮装置都可以通过表盘上的窗口一目了然，让人尽情欣赏它的奥妙所在。精密机械本身就有一种视觉美感，更何况这么昂贵，一定得让所有人都看得见啊!

　　1867年，Constant Girard推出“三金桥”陀飞轮怀表，不仅在巴黎举行的世界博览会上获得金奖，而且成为钟表历史上最经典作品，其机芯主要由黄金材料制造的三个桥状夹板支撑，展现了陀飞轮机芯的整体视觉美感。

　　宝珀飞行陀飞轮手表，透视的表盘将机芯的多种装置一览无余，尤其是位于12点刻度方位的飞行陀飞轮装置好像是一只正在展翅飞翔的天鹅。

　　HARRY WINSTON陀飞轮手表，是与Peter Speake-Marin联手合作的产物，在机芯上采用了双动力储存显示机构，无疑又是一大创新的表款。

　　圣宝莱限量推出女装陀飞轮机械表，表明了对复杂机械表的热爱已不再是男士的专利，8K玫瑰金表壳内装配了手动机械机芯，而圣宝莱的标志——SH缩写字母则作为“旋转框架”的图案，可谓一举两得。

女人也爱陀飞轮

　　菜鸟谈资：２００６年，世界表坛呈现一股强劲的潮流——女装腕表多功能化。除了美钻点缀和时尚造型，女人们对腕表的要求变得越来越男性化了，不管是不是真的对机械感兴趣，至少，与男人平等的立场要表明。

　　1997年，芝柏表厂推出女装“三金桥”陀飞轮手表，不仅将陀飞轮表带入了女性的世界，而且延续了"表中蒙娜丽莎"的美誉，三条用于固定零部件的金质支架平行地排列在表盘之下。近年来设计的“Cat's Eye Tourbillon”表款，则在表壳的造型、色彩的搭配等方面下足了工夫，将陀飞轮表打扮得更加妩媚。

　　真利时的首只女装陀飞轮表——Starissime，最大的亮点在于功能与设计的巧妙组合，除了在表壳和表盘等处镶有230颗共重9.8克拉的钻石，让人直接联想到这是深受女性宠爱的表款，同时,陀飞轮固定支架也被设计成为星形，它还采用了ELPrimero机芯，是世界唯一一款结合超高频率计时和陀飞轮装置的机芯。

。


{
if(this.width>750) this.width=750
}" />



{
if(this.width>750) this.width=750
}" />



{
if(this.width>750) this.width=750
}" />





{
if(this.width>750) this.width=750
}" />



{
if(this.width>750) this.width=750
}" />



{
if(this.width>750) this.width=750
}" />

Joseph Chevalier with tourbillon
Cal. CH 1760

Andrew Babanin

Tourbillon till now is one of the most complicated devices, made by watchmakers. Invented by king of watchmakers Abraham Louis Breguet tourbillon was made to improve accuracy of watches. That time it was quite uneasy to produce high precision parts where physical center was equal to the mathematical one. That's why the rate of watches was unstable in different positions because of influence of gravity. Breguet invented self compensating system where you could use normally produced parts (lower precision). He put parts of the escapement into the special rotating cage. A balance wheel for a minute was in all its positions, compensating gaining or slow-down appeared in certain positions. I should notice, that Breguet invented tourbillon only for pocket watches, usually placed in vertical positions. After Breguet's death only a few manufactures still produced tourbillobns. After the crisis of Swiss watch industry some manufacturers began to produce tourbillon again. I would say, that for wrist watches this complication is doubtful concerning reliability and accuracy, but till now it is most prestigious among other complications.

Fig
1. Limited edition

There are not too many tourbillon producers in the world. I would like to review Joseph Chevalier movement CH 1760, based on Progress 6361. Progress is quite famous because of the affray. The manufacture was established by ex-engineers of ETA SA. They used some ETA inventions. Besides this caliber was the first "folk" tourbillon - the price of watch was around 20000 US dollars!!! It was unpleasant to other manufacturers, so Progress was close to bankruptcy. Now it is called STT (Swiss Time Technologies). I would like to mention, that only 6 Swiss and a few German watch producers ventured to make watches with this caliber. Among them there are: Jacques Etoile, Alain Silberstein, Chronoswiss, Frederique Constant, Harry Winston and Joseph Chevalier.

Fig
2. The movement is hand engraved

The base caliber is Progress 6361 with 23 jewels, minute tourbillon and stop second feature. Diameter of the movt is 30 mm, height 5.4 mm, power reserve - 72 hours. Shock protecting device is Incabloc. It is flying tourbillon with the balance wheel placed in the center of the cage. The cage is fixed from the only side.

Fig 3. There are well finished parts under the dial. Circular Graining in the bridges, blued screws

Pay attention to the Fig.4. Minute wheel and keyless works are very common to ETA design. Moreover, you can find the 3rd wheel and intermediate wheel very common to ETA ones.

Fig
4. Keyless works in the best traditions of ETA movts

Tourbillon needs extra power, so you cannot use normal mainspring. There are two ways: to use stronger mainspring or to use two barrels. As a result - better performance and 3 days power reserve.

Fig
5. There are two barrels to give extra power

Fig
6. Mainspring bridges. Design is common to ETA 2892-А2

Let's jump to the most interesting device - the cage. As I told before - it is fixed to the bridge in the only point. Pay attention to the fig.7. Central jewel is a car jewel of the balance wheel with Incabloc shock protection. The cage is set in ball bearing and fixed with a special bolt very common to oscillating weight bolt of ETA 2892A2 movt. The ball bearing has 7 ruby balls.

Fig
7. The ball bearing is based on 7 ruby balls

The hairspring is flat and mounted in not moving stud. The index has device very common to ETACHRON, so if you want to adjust a gap between pins you can simply turn this brass device to some angle.

Fig
8. The part of cage and index are look like a small second hand

Second wheel is fixed firmly to the bridge. The escape wheel pinion moves among it and rotates the whole cage. There are teeth on the outer part of cage. With these teeth the cage interacts with the wheel train.

Fig
9. Dismounted tourbillon

The balance wheel is a bit strange, with enlarged axle. In this way producer placed cap jewel to the level of bridge surface - easier to maintain.

Fig
10. The balance is with strange rim and long axle

The cage is disassembled. Escapement bridge is dismounted. The pallet fork is made as a lever - for the better composition (also to place the balance in the center of the cage). Both banking pins are from the one side of the pallet fork - very original decision.

Рис
11. Banking pins are from the one side of the pallet fork

In conclusion I would like to say that I like this movement. It has the most modern decisions, passed thru many years of trials. The cage is fixed easily and safely, the balance can be adjusted easily and quickly. Cannon pinion with driving wheel have the best design, ever used. There is a very reliable movement.
The only minor thing - there are no slots for easier bridge removing - there is a risk to scratch a main plate.