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2008 BMW 750Li E66 ZF 6HP26变速箱换液保养

(2017-10-15 23:15:01) 下一个

车况:2008 BMW 750Li E66 常规保养 90%-95%城市短途,驾驶环境气候温和,近十年车龄里程91,000公里,驾驶激烈程度中度。

变速箱保养套件及工具若干,材料费:油液七瓶160,油盘油堵螺栓VB套管等140,共计300美刀,实际只使用250刀的材料,其他只能做备胎了!

1:在坡道上木头ramp调整车体水平,后轮前后使用wheel chock防滑动

2:拆变速箱底部护板,四颗8mm螺栓,内侧干燥无湿油痕说明变速箱应该不缺液

3:松注油螺栓,8mm Hex

看着很美就是拧不动,小心网上有很多人不小心搞round了!

把隔热铝板压了压,然后你就懂了。

4:放油,12mm Hex 无悬念

5:松21颗油盘螺栓,早期的6HP26使用的是 Torx #27螺头很容易滑扣,所以网上卖Torx #40相同的螺栓以便替代且也为将来着想,我的这台车是2007年年底产原厂已经使用Torx #40,买配件是特意买了五枚Torx #40不锈钢螺栓以备万一

6:卸下17颗周边的螺栓保留四角的四颗螺栓,用手拖住油盘底壳再卸掉四角的四颗螺栓,稍微倾斜将油盘内最后的剩油基本倒尽,然后保持水平卸下油盘。注意尽量保持不要洒落以便一会儿精确计量放出的老油液容量。

7:裸照

7:清理油盘密封周边,勿用硬器以免刮痕!

8:按顺序力矩上紧21颗螺栓,10N.m

圈点油在O ring上

10:正常注油程序:

a)冷车注油2.5升左右开始外溢,关闭注油螺栓

b)着车接着注油直至开始外溢,关闭注油螺栓

c)着车状态在D-R-P间个停留5秒钟左右,切换至S停留5秒左右,再切换至M,在M1-M2-M3..-M6各停留5秒左右,然后回P档

d)使用远红外温度探测器或INPA电脑软件侦测变速箱油温,在30-40度之间观察油量,期间如无油液溢出需添加至开始溢出,如有溢出在40度以前需保证溢出为滴落状态即可

害死人的这个东西,泵油超级的慢和晚期前列腺有一拼,千万千万不要用这个注油!!!

因为注油慢结果温度上来了油还没加满,只得先拧上注油螺栓先吃饭让车降降温重来,两小时后再着车注油才注满,虽满了可温度又上来了,没办法只能等明天早上彻底冷了再重新复核一遍40度内的油液量,完全冷车操作的时间会宽裕点儿。

也许这个好些

11:转天一早室外气温10度左右,着车后在D-N-R-P-S-M1-M2-M3各停留了3-5秒,钻车底再次用这个在35度左右打开注油螺栓,又泵了一点进去然后就开始滴答了,最后实际加了4.8L-4.9L左右,35N.m拧紧注油螺栓。

12:小区开了一圈无故障码无报警,So far so good!

13:收工

后记:

放出的老油液4.4升,加上油盘滤网及其他准确的油量应该是4.5L

ZF原厂买的套件是配6L而ESC是配7L,网上多说需要6.5L,因ZF并未给出准确数据只说需要4-6L,所以买了7升新油液以备万一,目前加了4.8L左右洒了0.2L实用5L。

几点感受:

1:坡道调整车辆水平,工作空间有闲比较吃力,可能平地用jack stands把车高高地举在空中易于作案,只是于我想着就胆寒。

2:ZF变速箱油液更换比以往其他有探油杆的要麻烦许多,开干前最好做足功课。

3:泵油器一定要用泵量大的,否则事半功倍自讨苦吃。

4:变速箱油液气味很大,一定要在通风或露天摆摊。

5:心脏小的花几百手工让车铺搞吧,虽然不是很难一个人干还是挺受罪的,最好有个帮手替代着车停留换挡,一定是要可靠的人啊!

6:以后每5-6万更换油液保养不再更换油盘和滤网,即使拆卸Mechatronics [VB]维修,卸下的老油盘底部比较干净,仅仅是两块磁铁上有较多黑色淤泥。

这两个参考视频多看几遍熟背于心:

能坚持看到这里说明你是个有心人,告诉你我为什么要做这个保养的原因吧!

2008 BMW 750Li E66 低速至停止2-1降档顿挫解决方案及实践

ZF官网关于BMW ZF 6HP26 or 6HP28 变速箱液量查验标准操作程序:

A) Transmissions fluid level checking.
1) The transmission fluid temperature must be between 30°C and 35°C before checking can begin. Use test equipment to determine the trans temperature.
2) The vehicle must be level with engine running at idle speed and air conditioning turned on.
3) Step on the brakes firmly, apply parking brake fully and shift to D and R, briefly pausing in each position before shifting back to the Park position.
4) With the engine running at idle speed and the selector in Park position, remove the filler plug. Monitor the transmission temperature, if a small stream of oil runs out at 40°C, the fluid level is correct.
5) If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too low and oil needs to be added until it overflows.
6) With engine running, install the oil filler plug and tighten to proper torque.

B) Adding fluid after repairs.
1) With the engine stopped and the transmission in Park position, remove the oil filler plug. Add transmission fluid until a small stream of oil runs out.
2) Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand. Start the engine.
3) With the engine running, remove the oil filler plug and add transmission fluid until a small stream of oil runs out. Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand.
4) Follow the “Transmission fluid level checking” procedure described in section A) above.

C) Notes on fluid level and adding procedure.
1) Use only ZF-LifeguardFluid6 or OE approved transmission fluid.
2) If the transmission temperature rises above 50°C during the fluid level checking procedure the resulting oil level will be to low. Let the transmission cool down and repeat the fluid level procedure.
3) Have transmission fluid and a suitable oil pump available before starting the fluid level procedure. The transmission fluid temperature will rise quickly during the checking procedure.

D) Drain and filler plug location.

转天使用INPA读取温度参数和红外线测温比较,两者相差2-3度。

多亏又看了一眼,21颗螺栓都加了2N.m至12N.m,ZF原要求为10N.m+/-1N.m。

最后结果:放老油4.5L【4.4L+0.1L残留等】,7升新油剩余1.7L,意外洒落最多0.2L左右,实际注入5.1L,其他地方未见明显漏油十年为什么差了近0.6L呢?那个不起眼的Mechatronic套管渗油经年累月会有这般奇效?

重要更新

又回看了看拍的照片,莫非错怪那个套管啦?套管虽漏但并不严重,怎么看着油盘上的这几颗螺栓位置的油迹很眼熟啊!联想起今天也是看到这个位置有漏,所以特意又紧了紧螺栓。

惯性思维大马眼啊!

There are many opinions as to whether to change ATF fluid once a certain number of miles has passed and it has never been changed. If you are having problems at your mileage, the chances are good that changing the fluid will not help. However, if you are having no problems then it is up to you.

Part of the question revolves around large deposits of "gunk" that are stuck on the walls of the transmission and its parts. New fluid will tend to act as a solvent and free up many of these deposits, with the danger that larger particles that break loose will embed themselves in a critically small area of the transmission and cause problems.

The second part is that all transmission fluids in addition to being a lubricant, ATF also provides a certain level of friction between parts, known as the fluid friction coefficient. All other properties of synthetic base stock ATF being equal, the friction coefficient (adjusted by the manufacturer using friction modifier additives) is one of the biggest differences between various ATFs.

In the old days as parts wore, the dirt in the AFT actually raised the friction coefficient and allowed the parts to continue to work, but when changed to clean fluid the friction from the dirt was gone, and the transmission components slipped.

The ZF transmission was developed in conjunction with a lubricant manufacturer, with the solenoids being adjusted for flow and friction to match the specific fluid friction coefficient designed around. However, one of the ZF advantages is the ability of the transmission to have a set of benchmarks coded into the transmission module, and the ability to adjust the solenoids to match these benchmarks. Normally, these adjustments are designed to allow the transmission to maintain optimum shifts as partswear and fluid gets dirty. However, these adjustments can also be reset to allow the transmission to "learn" a different fluid manufacturer's friction coefficient.

Fluid change falls into two methods
1. Drain the fluid from the pan and add new. Up to about 1/2 of the fluid can be drained at a time as the torque converter traps the rest when the engine stops
2. Disconnect the transmission cooler lines and run the engine, dumping the line going to the cooler into a waste container, and pumping new fluid out of a containerthrough the line returning to the transmission

IMHO the safest of the two is to just drain the fluid, and replace and then do it a second time, replacing the drain pan on the second drain which has an integrated filter.

I have used Pentosin ATF1 with absolutely no problems. This fluid was actually the fluid used to develop the ZF 5-speed transmission that preceded the 6-speed, and is extremely close in characteristics. ZF lists it as an alternative to LG6.

NEW ADD



****Filling procedure****
Engine must not be running at this moment! DO NOT START ENGINE!!
Time to fill'er up
1. First make sure that the car and the pan is leveled use a lever device
2. WITH THE ENGINE OFF!!!!!! Open the fill port and start pumping in new fluid
3. Pumping in the fluid may get messy lots of paper towel and gloves is mandatory, and the oil has very strong hydrocarbon smell.
4. Keep pumping till you get a stream leaking out like this, Initial fill only tool 2.5 quarts for me.
5. Next make sure you're in a well ventilated area, make sure that the headlights radio and AC are turned off before starting, if possiable get a second person or by yourself, START the car, with the car running quickly go underneath and start pumping additional fluid
6. With the car running pump until your get a stream like this
7. Then install the fill plug loosely
8. With the second person, or by yourself, shift the gears in the following pattern
P to R to N to D to DS to M1>M2>M3 back to D to N to R then P with 1-2 second pause in between shifts.
9. After performing the shifting procedure open the fill port and besure to top off the fluid until its streaming like so
10. Use a IR thermometer and check the sump temperature. Initial check temeprature must be between 30*C-35*C
11. Once you reached 30*C-35*C, open the fill port, there 3 comes
a.If fluid is steadily streaming out allow it to come to a drip, then close it
b.If fluid is coming out as drops close it
c.If there's no fluid streaming out refill the transmission sump pan till it streams out then close it
12.Now you have to wait till the sump pan is temperature is up to 40*C this will be your final check for now. DO NOT ALLOW SUMP TEMPERATURE TO REACH UP TO 50*C or incorrect level will occur.
13. Onces it reaches up to 40*C open the fill port, there will be 3 outcomes
a.If fluid is steadily streaming out allow it to come to a drip, then close it and your done
b.If fluid is coming out as drips close it and your done
c.If there's no fluid streaming out refill the transmission sump pan till it streams then wait till to comes to a drip close it and your done
14 Torque nut to 30 nm or 22 lb/ft
*****If you reached 50*C during your check*************
If sump temp reaches up to 50*C you need to cool it down to 30*C then start from there again.
**************************************************
Onces your done reinstall the protective/acoustic transmission pan cover and take it for a 20 mile drive, on street and highway.

******Optional******
A second check is recommended (not required) to ensure that your level is correct.
After driving allow time to cool recommend leaving it overnight to cool off.
1. Like before make sure car is leveled pan and/or body
2. Let sump temp reach 30-35*C then open 3 outcomes will occur
a.If fluid is steadily streaming out allow it to come to a drip, then close it
b.If fluid is coming out as drops close it
c.If there's no fluid streaming out refill the transmission sump pan till it streams out then close it
3. Wait till it reach up to 40*C 3 outcomes will occur again
a.If fluid is steadily streaming out allow it to come to a drip, then close it and your done
b.If fluid is coming out as drops close it and your done
c.If there's no fluid streaming out refill the transmission sump pan till it streams out then close it and your done
That's about it, total time for me to document and have all this road blocks took me 9 hours however now that i know what to do next time it should only take me 1-2 hrs to do in the future.

PDF file in (attached file) containing fill and drain procedure for 6hp26 in a tree diagram and other useful schematics and info.

ZP SI Oelwechselkit_EN.unlocked.pdf 

04 Oct 2018 Update

 

ZF Friedrichshafen AG 6 Speed ZF6HP26 & ZF6HP26A Transmission

ZF6HP26 6 speed Automatic Transmission found in BMW Range Rover Land Rover Jaguar Ford

ZF6HP26 6 speed Automatic Transmission

Released by ZF in 2000 the 6HP26 transmission was the first 6 speed automatic to be used in production passenger cars. Normally reserved for high end luxury and sports cars it was in 2005 when Ford Australia released the transmission into there Falcon and Territory range of vehicles. With manufactures now looking to add more speed to there transmissions Kia & Hyundai are now using this transmission in the Kia Mohave & Hyundai Genesis V8.

Transmission Codes
6HP26 – Rear Wheel Drive
6HP26A – All Wheel Drive

Common Problems
This is a very well designed & built transmission and reliability is very good, However there are many external issues which cause damage to the internals of these transmissions which can be avoided.

Know Problems With Fords
Both Ford Falcons & Territory’s suffer from water entering through the heat exchanger which is known as the dreaded “Transmission Milk Shake”. This will require a full rebuild as the water raises the boiling point and melts the adhesive holding the friction material to the clutch plates. It also lowers the Hydraulic Effiency causing clutch slippage which leades to burnt out clutch packs.

Known Problems With BMW
As these are known to be a sealed transmission it is highly recommended to have these serviced. BMW’s have had these since 2000 which means the transmission would have done may kms on the same oil. As oil does go off and add many years of wear and tear floating through the oil it all comes together to start causing issues with shifting etc. Getting in early with a service will help prolong the transmission so your not hit with a large rebuild cost.

Service Information
The 6HP26 requires a special oil from ZF there are some oil manufactures that claim there fluid will work however unless its documented that it will work its recommended to use ZF oil. Now vehicle manufactures claim that the transmission is a “fill for life” or “Sealed Gearbox” however with research we have done we have found that ZF claim the Lifeguard 6 fluid is rated to 62,000 miles. See below details

“ZF Lifeguard Fluid, a high-performance lubricant specially engineered by ZF, gives customers a perfectly matched product. The transmission fluid reduces material wear, vibrations and noise for smoother shifting, extended maintenance intervals (100,000 km/62,000 miles), and maximum fuel savings.”

Transmission Rebuilders recommend servicing these transmissions every 60,000kms or 36 Months which every accrues first. It is also recommended on models with a one piece plastic sump to be converted with the more common steel sump with removable filter. The conversion cost about $70AUD more but then you will be saving $70 every service after that as you only need a filter and gasket rather than a complete sump.

Recommended Oil by Transmission Manufacture
ZF-LifeGuard Fluid 6
1 Litre (Part No: S671 090 255)
20 Litre (Part No: S671 090 253)
205 Litre (Part No: S671 090 252)

Recommended by Oil Manufacture (Please check each oil company’s website before use)

  • Fuchs – 4134 Fluid
  • Liqui Moly – TOP TEC ATF 1800 Fluid
  • Nulon – SYNATF Fluid
  • Gulf Western – SYNTRANS Fluid
  • Phoenix Lubricants – PX TRANSMATIC-LV Fluid

 

Oil Capacity
Dry Fill Capacity – 9.4 Litres (Not including Cooling System)
Service Fill Capacity – 4.5 Litres (Give or take 1/2 Litre)
Cooling System Capacity 0.5 – 1.5 Litre (Depending on Setup)

Fluids which cause Damage
Penrite ATF SYN Automatic Transmission fluid was recommended for this transmission however in December 2010 Penrite released a statement to all customers stating that ATF SYN would no longer cover this transmission. Some workshops who continued to used the oil have reported the industry where it caused clutch squawk on shifting. (Download a PDF Version of Penrite’s Statement Here PENRITE ATF DEVELOPMENTS)

****************************************************************************************************************

ZF Friedrichshafen AG

ZF6HP26 Automatic Transmission Fluid Level Procedures

The Oil Drain and filling procedure will vary between models so please use the flowing information as a guide only.

ZF-6HP26 Oil Drain Plug

Draining The Oil (Polyamide & Steel Oilpan)
To drain simply remove the drain plug on the underside of the sump towards the rear of the transmission. The plug requires a 12mm or 10mm allen key for removal and make sure you use caution as it is plastic (Polyamide) if incorrect key is used it will strip out.

Draining The Oil (Polyamide & Steel Oilpans with 2 Plugs)
To drain simply remove the drain plug on the underside of the sump towards the front or rear of the transmission. The plug requires either a 5mm or 6mm allen key for removal.


ZF-6HP26 Filler Plug Location
Filling The Oil (Sumps with only 1 Plug)

On the left hand side of the transmission housing looking from the back to the front there is a filler plug towards the front of the transmission. Remove this plug with an 8mm allen key then with then engine off pump the recommended fluid in until it starts to run out the hole, you may need to make sure the pump nozzle if raised so its not blocking the fluid from coming out.

Filling The Oil (Sumps with 2 Plugs)
On the bottom of the sump there is a filler plug towards the back of the transmission. Remove the plug with an 17mm allen key Then with the engine off pump the recommended fluid in until it starts to run out the hole, you may need to make sure the pump nozzle is pointing in the correct direction which will alloy the oil to enter the sump. If oil deflector is in the correct position the nozzle should face the back of the transmission. Have a good look up there with a touch to get an idea and make sure you don’t damage the plastic deflector.

Monitoring 
If you have a Diagnostic Scanner available it is recommended to plug in and monitor the engine Revs and Transmission Oil Temperature. Recommended isotretinoinonlinebuy.com Revs 750 while in Park. Recommended Temperature 40°C at final check. If no Scanner is available do not run longer than 15 minutes during filling time. If temperature rises over 50°C allow the transmission to cool before final check.

Filling Continued…
Once the fluid starts to run out replace the filler plug loosely and then with selector in Park start the vehicle’s engine. When engine revs at idle or 750rpm (You may need to turn on Head Lights or Air Conditioning to raise RPM) remove the filler plug and continue filling until fluid starts to run out.

Once its running out for the second time you can replace the filler plug and with your foot hard on the brake pedal select Drive and Reverse at least 2 times make sure you allow the gears to engage. Now the transmission temp should be about 40°C and you can now remove the filler plug and preform the final oil level check. If you need to add more oil do so or allow and excess oil to drain if  over full.

Oil Overflow
When full there should be a small stream of oil if it stops streaming at correct temperature add a bit more. If you remove the Pump Nozzle and its pouring out its over full allow it enough time to drain.

Conclusion
With the correct Temperature, Engine RPM and Oil Overflow Stream you can now replace the filler plug and tighten to the recommended torque setting.

Information List

  • Recommended Fluid – ZF-LifeGuard Fluid 6
  • Recommended Checking Temperature –  40°C
  • Recommended Checking RPM – 750rpm
  • Drain Plug Tightening Torque – 8 Nm (Polyamide Oilpan)
  • Filler Plug Tightening Torque – 35 Nm (Plug on side of Case)
  • Drain Plug Tightening Torque – 12 Nm (Steel Oilpan)
  • Filler Plug Tightening Torque – 80 Nm (17mm HEX Steel Oilpan)
  •  

 

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