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网见BMW X5 6HP26 变速箱液更换操作详解及打算

(2017-09-17 16:35:36) 下一个
DIY Guide 6hp26 fluid and filter change on E70 X5

Well it is well overdue for a transmission fluid change on my 2011 X5 35d, i'm sitting at 70,600 miles at the moment and according to ZF the change interval says 60k-75k miles or 8 years. 

This will be a indepth guide on changing the transmission fluid, filter and pan, this guide can be use for 30i or 48i with some slight differences the two variance.

**********************Disclaimer****************** *******************
This is a community guide/not a professional or replacement of ZF OEM guide, i'm in no way responsible if you damage your transmission or other component, injured your self or died in the process of following this guide...IF your not sure about doing this on your own even after reading though guide this seek a professional service man to perform this job for you

Lets begin 

*****************Things you'll need************************************

Ramps, jack stand or lift which ever you have to better assist you in sliding/getting under the car.

///////////////////****Remember safety first!****
Going under a car is inherently dangerous use proper safety lifting and securing techniques to prevent injuries or death.

A good quality/brand Torx set (size T40), I cannot stress enough of buying a good quality torx bit, don't buy harbor freight, cal-hawk etc junk unless you want to strip your heads.

in picture is a craftmans evolv torx bit (only $9.99) 


in/lb(10nm capable) NOT ft/lb torque wrench, buy a good brand torque wrench for better accuracy and prevent from stripping heads.

Infrared thermometer gun (check pan sum temperature) 

6hp26 transmission fluid change kit from The CTSC 
http://www.thectsc.com/products/oil-...ce-186-61.html

Filler tool (napa suction and fill tool) 

And lots of paper towel shop rags ect 

drain pans/buckets (one that can measure capacity)



****************Instruction begins**********************************

Remove the acoustic/protective plastic under pan there's 8-10 10mm screws to remove



Transmission pan exposed


Locate the fill plug (right rear quarter of transmission) and loosen it (leave the nut on), it is VERY IMPORTANT that the key sits in nice and tight to prevent stripping and opening the fill plug before the drain plug, i think its H10-H12 hex socket (not too sure as i didn't have a key set with markings on) 


Find the drain plug (center rear of the pan) and remove use a H10 socket to remove, be sure to place a pan on the bottom to collect for measurement. 


Out comes the old fluid, fluid must be absent of burning smell, color dark brown, not black, and no metal shavings or glitters in the the fluid. Remove the T40 hex bolts while its draining



***Complications ahead****
You only can remove 18 of the 22 bolts the 4 bolts that are located in the rear are very tight fits because of the transfer case suspension bracket that is in the way. (see red arrow)


******TIME SAVER OPTION********
////T40 1/4 bit and 1/4 wrench
You'll need a T40 1/4 bit and a 1/4 wrench If you have a grinder/machining tool you can grind off part of the bit and maybe weld it on to the wrench or what i did use tissue paper to friction fit it, this method will side right in w/o any issues, you'll just have to use some elbow grease to painfully slow of unscrewing the bolt off the pan. This method does not require you to drop the Transfer case as the tool is small enough to fit in to the slot!


Slip your cut bit on the ring part of the wrench, and now you can slide between the space and remove the 4 bolt


If you don't have a grinder or a cutter to shorten the bit, then you have to lower the transfer case suspension bracket in order to gain access to those bolts. Highlighted in yellow is only part of the TC bracket
***Complication ahead continued*****

////SAFETY CAUTION!
Before you loosen the transfer case bolts place a jack under the transfer case to support it, you dont want it to drop on you or damage the prop shaft or any other components.


Here you can see the diagram, there's a total of 6x 16mm size bolts that needs to be loosen hidden bolt located on the right side highlighted in red box, there will be an exhaust pipe block it.


here's is the hidden bolt in perspective you have enough space to slide a wrench to loosen it.


Once you loosen all the bolts you can slowly lower it to gain access to those bolts, besure you have a catch can below more fluid will spew out!


****More stipulation, 2 options**** 

OPTION A////Wing it and try to fit the 1/4 bit in

Now that you lower the TC bracket down the space still tight!!! A T40 socket wont fit, however a 1/4 bit T40 attached with a 1/4in wrench will fit barely with the TC bracket lowered.





OPTION B ////More stuff to remove for better access

This is a little more involved but this route you'll be able to access the bolts with not problem, you need to properly support the TC you'll need a wide base floor jack or something to hold the TC while you drop the TC support bracket this route is a little scary for me and didn't do this route but i did pondered about. Everything in yellow needs to be removed!



*****Instruction resume*******

Once you remove the bolts off the pan  you can finally drop the pan down! Watch for any wires or lines that are attached on to the pan Gently pull it straight down there will be oil left in the pan so be careful!


****X5 35d only****
On the 35d there's a nox sensor located on the upper right corner (passenger side) of the pan is attached to the pan remove it first before dropping the pan


Remove the clip from the pan and reinstall on to new pan



****instruction Resume****

Valve body (sorry blurry iphone camera)


Make sure the O ring is still on the intake tube seen in the picture, and not stuck on the valve body


No o rings here 


Clean the surface off with some rag or paper tower make sure you don't cause a deep scratch on the surface or this will cause leaking problem.


*****Oil pan reinstall*******


Take your new pan and tape up the pan tightening sequence on to the bottom of the pan, you can find the document over here Click Here


remove the cap and lube up the o-ring with the trans fluid on the transmission oil pickup tube and cap it back until your ready to install.


Remove the dust cap before installation


****Optional Modification*****
Remember the 4 rear bolts that were hard to access....To save me from turmoil in the future you can use hex bolts on them you'll need a 4x M6x1.0 30mm (at least 8.8 grade) and 4x M6 fender washer ( aka wide washers) essentially, if you wish, you could replace all the torx 22 head with this setup.




**************************
Install and HAND tight at bolts first or use power tool in lowest torque setting!


Then torque them up to 10 lb/ft or 8 nm in the pattern/arrangement of the paper this ensure proper and even sealing of the pan


****X5 35d only****
Dont forgot to install the clip on to new pan and reattach the nox sensor wire to the clip


****Filling procedure****
Engine must not be running at this moment! DO NOT START ENGINE!!

Time to fill'er up


1. First make sure that the car and the pan is leveled use a lever device 


2. WITH THE ENGINE OFF!!!!!! Open the fill port and start pumping in new fluid


3. Pumping in the fluid may get messy lots of paper towel and gloves is mandatory, and the oil has very strong hydrocarbon smell.


4. Keep pumping till you get a stream leaking out like this, Initial fill only tool 2.5 quarts for me. 


5. Next make sure you're in a well ventilated area, make sure that the headlights radio and AC are turned off before starting, if possiable get a second person or by yourself, START the car, with the car running quickly go underneath and start pumping additional fluid


6. With the car running pump until your get a stream like this 


7. Then install the fill plug loosely


8. With the second person, or by yourself, shift the gears in the following pattern 
P to R to N to D to DS to M1>M2>M3 back to D to N to R then P with 1-2 second pause in between shifts.

9. After performing the shifting procedure open the fill port and besure to top off the fluid until its streaming like so


10. Use a IR thermometer and check the sump temperature. Initial check temeprature must be between 30*C-35*C


11. Once you reached 30*C-35*C, open the fill port, there 3 comes

a.If fluid is steadily streaming out allow it to come to a drip, then close it

b.If fluid is coming out as drops close it

c.If there's no fluid streaming out refill the transmission sump pan till it streams out then close it


12.Now you have to wait till the sump pan is temperature is up to 40*C this will be your final check for now. DO NOT ALLOW SUMP TEMPERATURE TO REACH UP TO 50*C or incorrect level will occur.

13. Onces it reaches up to 40*C open the fill port, there will be 3 outcomes 

a.If fluid is steadily streaming out allow it to come to a drip, then close it and your done

b.If fluid is coming out as drips close it and your done

c.If there's no fluid streaming out refill the transmission sump pan till it streams then wait till to comes to a drip close it and your done

14 Torque nut to 30 nm or 22 lb/ft

*****If you reached 50*C during your check*************
If sump temp reaches up to 50*C you need to cool it down to 30*C then start from there again.
**************************************************

Onces your done reinstall the protective/acoustic transmission pan cover and take it for a 20 mile drive, on street and highway.



******Optional******
A second check is recommended (not required) to ensure that your level is correct.

After driving allow time to cool recommend leaving it overnight to cool off.

1. Like before make sure car is leveled pan and/or body 

2. Let sump temp reach 30-35*C then open 3 outcomes will occur 

a.If fluid is steadily streaming out allow it to come to a drip, then close it

b.If fluid is coming out as drops close it

c.If there's no fluid streaming out refill the transmission sump pan till it streams out then close it

3. Wait till it reach up to 40*C 3 outcomes will occur again 

a.If fluid is steadily streaming out allow it to come to a drip, then close it and your done

b.If fluid is coming out as drops close it and your done

c.If there's no fluid streaming out refill the transmission sump pan till it streams out then close it and your done

That's about it, total time for me to document and have all this road blocks took me 9 hours however now that i know what to do next time it should only take me 1-2 hrs to do in the future.



****This section contains useful documents to aid in doing transmission fill and drain.****

6hp26 pan tightening pattern

PDF file in (attached file) containing fill and drain procedure for 6hp26 in a tree diagram and other useful schematics and info.

A very cut and dry version covering the very basic proceudre on how to change zf 6hpxx transmission fluid and pan
On first time drain and fill, its good practice change the pan/filter and do 2-3x drain and fill to clear out any old fluid without using a flush tool/machine or removing the cooler lines and flush (ZF does not recommend the use of transmission flush machine/method)

Fluid Is good up to 30k*-60k* (depending on driving habit/situation/towing, and how much old fluid is remaining in system)
Filters/pan are good for up to 60k miles
Transmission Electrical connector sleeve/plug is good up to 100k miles
Valve Body to transmission "6hp26 bridge seals" good up to 120k miles (I planned on doing this at 100k mile with connector sleeve)
 
虽然都是6HP26变速箱,但具体车型的底盘安装结构有差异,所以初期的拆装会有不同,而涉及油盘本身的拆装和换油都是一致的!
 
保养打算和安排:
 
车辆90,000km/54,000mile,低速降档2-1档偶尔有卡顿【jerk or rear ended】,目前猜测有两大可能:变速箱和guibo joint,近期打算有空先换6升变速箱液,如有改善则近期再换液一次并更换变速箱油盘滤网,从而保证75%以上的新液然后再用INPA初始化变速箱参数,这样的好处是初始化变速箱参数时油液品质比较接近新油液,如无改善就等14-15万公里再换油盘滤网,而这次还液后可能只做个“踏板reset”并排除变速箱成因,guibo joint估计要等明年开春!
 
 
 
 
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