Kluane National Park 占地22,013 km2，其中雪山冰川占了 83%， 其余是森林和苔原。公园内有2000 多条冰川，一些冰川厚达一公里。这里是野生动物的自然保护区，也是加拿大最高峰 – Mt Logan的所在。矗立在美加边境上的Mt. St. Elias，则同为美加两国第二高峰。这一带因拥有世界上最大的非极地冰原，被列为 UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest internationally protected area on the planet.
Alaska Hwy上的小镇Haines Junction是进入 Kluane 的门户， 但从公路上既看不到冰川，也看不到 St. Elias Mountains 的众多雪峰。想要真正体验 Kluane，只能徒步或乘观光小飞机。
我们在这一带只有四天四夜，但我非常喜欢这个国家公园，甚至超过墓碑山。这里的山更高 天地更广阔，这里的风更大 雨更狂野。穿行在Kluane的山川河流间，跟着熊脚印前行，能真切地感受到育空那野性的呼唤。
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Kluane National Park 的名字来源于当地原住民部落。在印第安语里，Kluane 意为大鱼，音为‘克鲁瓦内’（Kloo-wah-nee）。Kluane 部落至今仍遵循母系制度，Chief 当然是女性。她下有两个氏族：乌鸦族和狼族。（我奇怪，谁会自称乌鸦，为啥不是熊？熊是这里常见的动物，也比乌鸦更威猛。）他们生活在在 Mt. St. Elias 山脉脚下的这片土地，其特征是：极寒、永冻和狂风。
D10 Sept 11 Monday, Dawson City – Haines Junction
从Dawson City一路南下，一周前路旁的绿色森林今天已是满树金黄。阳光下，秋色越发迷人。
途中碰到一辆抛锚的卡车，车后还拖着RV。我们把司机带到有手机信号的地方求救。车主是本地人，全家依然在道森淘金。好奇问他的收入，他开玩笑说，如果我们不是CRA来查税的，（半）年产量是七、八百盎司。（想不到一个多世纪过去，这里还有这么多的金子！）他家拥有一段埋藏着金子的河谷，每年从5月挖到11月，可以再挖上一两百年。不同于当年的Gold Rush，那时拿个盘子在河床中就能筛出金沙。如今的淘金需要大型设备，要挖地七、八十尺深才能挖到金子 - 他的原话是 ‘reach the pay dirt’。我算计着，目前的金价是一千九百多美元，毛估估年入超过百万呢。
10-1. 那天一路向南，天空的颜色很奇怪。公路旁有个小湖，我们停车观看天象。
10-2. 湖边停着一辆Van改装的RV，车主是个胖胖的二三十岁的女孩，有一猫一狗陪伴。女孩说停这里是因为有Wi-Fi信号，可以WFH。逗逗可爱的猫咪
10-3. 还有可爱的小狗。这是无依之地 Nomadland 的幸福版吗？
D11 Sept 12 Tuesday, Kluane - King’s Throne Hike
微信记录：
上周在 Tombstone 时跟 Ranger Nate 聊天，说起后面的计划，要接着去 Kluane 走那条 3D/2N 的步道，去看大冰川。Nate说今年因为高温，冰川消融超快，所以道上的河水水位很高，最深要到胸口！大家一听心就凉了，那基本是无法通过嘛！ 于是临时改计划走Day Hikes，打算舒服玩几天。
周一我们从道森转战到Haines Junction，周二上午逛到 Kluane NP Visitor Center，刚巧有人在申请Permit。我赶紧凑上去问：“现在河水水位有多高，Tombstone 的人说到胸口很难走啊？” 操法语口音的工作人员不屑地回答，“都九月中了，天冷冰川不化，河水应该就到膝盖吧。” Yeah! 原计划复燃，我们又可以继续 Backpacking 了。
今天真是繁忙的一天。早起看日出，然后去 Visitor Centre。之后6人兵分两路，我、队友和小鸿夫妇按计划去走号称Kluane最美的Day Hike - King’s Throne，可惜时间不够外加天气恶劣，没走到终点。
11-1. 早起去看日出
11-2. Alaska Hwy 公路边一字排开的连绵群山。其实这些只是foothills，真正的大山还在后面。
11-3. Kings Throne 步道起点在 Kathleen Lake，很漂亮的湖，湖边有个营地。
11-4. 步道从湖畔开始，一路升高，沿途可以俯瞰 Kathleen Lake。我们还看到山间彩虹。
11-5. 狂风中一路挣扎，总算来到山脊另一面。传说中的雪山一座没看到。下山队友骂了一路，说这条排名第一的步道空担虚名。
11-6. 关键是天气不好，那天乌云压顶还下着雨。没有光就是不出彩 - 摄影大师说的。
晚上回到舒适的住处，能干的大厨已经做好晚饭。火锅涮好的美味，盛到碗里端到面前。
饭后抓紧时间 packing。后面的 backpacking 只有三天，带的食物少，但要背过河的鞋。一位队友没有过河的鞋，连夜忙着改装鞋子。今夜我是带着担忧入睡，因为 Kluane 里的路况不明，尤其担心要过的那几冰川条河。
Kluane: Slim's River West & Observation Mountain Info
去看冰川要先走 22km 的 Slim's River West Trail，然后爬 Observation Mountain。全程约六十多公里，公园建议露营两晚。出发前没好好做功课，徒步时一路查看 Parks Canada 给的介绍和地图。其实这条路线官网就有介绍，出发前应该下载到手机里。这一带很荒且熊多，我们六个人一路欢声笑语，估计把熊都吓跑了。
Kluane NP: Slim's River (A'ay Chu) West Trail
This trail follows along the west side of the Slim's River and ends up at a campsite about 2 kms from the toe of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. You are hiking into the heart of Kluane, so the mountains around you never cease to impress. Plan on camping at least 2 nights if you want to get a better view of the glacier. The trail along the river is long but relatively flat with a few damp sections and a couple of creek crossings.
Driving Directions
From Haines Junction, continue on the Alaska Highway north for about 70 km until you cross a bridge and see the Thachal Dhal (Sheep Mountain) Visitor Center. Immediately after the visitor center, make a left onto Sheep Creek Road. Follow this gravel road for about 2.5 km until you reach the parking lot and trailhead.
Observation Mountain Route
Distance: 19 km (12 mi) return trip
Time: 1-2 days
Elevation gain: 1,291 m (4,235’)
Maximum elevation: 2,114 m (6,300')
*A route is not a trail
Routes are not marked with signs or maintained in any manner. The route described here is only a suggestion that may help guide you on your trip. Self-reliance and wilderness travel experience are essential, including excellent route finding skills, map and compass skills. It is the responsibility of individual hikers who choose to follow such routes to adequately prepare and be prepared to rely on themselves.
Observation Mountain Route Description
From the primitive campsite, travel south towards the toe of the Kaskawulsh glacier. You will reach the section of Canada Creek where it braids as it enters the Ä’äy Chù River. This is often the best place to cross. Aim for a 6x6 post in the middle of the delta, which will lead you in this direction.
After crossing Canada Creek, head west towards the base of Observation Mountain then continue west (upstream) up Canada Creek, until you get to Columbia Creek flowing out of the southwest into Canada Creek (about 4 kms). The cliffs around Columbia Creek are very good places to see mountain goats. Follow along the left side of Columbia Creek for a short distance (about 500-800 m) until you notice a game trail heading up the slope to your left, just prior to a cliff face that drops down to the creek. The trail starts a few feet above the creek bed due to recent erosion so may be easy to miss. Follow this game trail up onto a steep narrow ridge into the alpine. This is one of the easier routes up onto Observation Mountain.
Remain on the ridges for the ascent and especially on your descent off the mountain (remember which ridge you ascended for your hike back down). This route will take you to a large open alpine saddle or plateau. Continuing due south to the end of the plateau will bring you to a spectacular view of the South Arm of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. To the east is the peak of Observation Mountain from which there are panoramic views of the Ä’äy Chù and Kaskawalsh Valleys. It is not necessary to climb right to the top Observation for a view of the Kaskawulsh glacier as it can be seen from the edge of the plateau. It is best to return via the same ridges recommended for the ascent.
What you need to know
The primitive campground is used heavily so please minimize your impact on this area. There is an outhouse and water from a nearby stream. Campfires are not allowed. Tents may be set up in the cleared areas in the trees or in the trees near the outhouse. Please use established trails to prevent erosion and damage to fragile vegetation.
Unfortunately, cases of giardia have been reported in the Ä’äy Chù Valley, so water boiling, tablets or filters are recommended. Good boots are useful for Observation Mountain and gaiters are handy for the alpine snow and deep mud on some of the flats; a hiking pole is recommended for descending Observation Mountain and is useful for creek crossings.
Creeks in the valley will vary in size dramatically even over the course of a day (especially in spring) and as a general rule creeks are lowest and easiest to cross in the early morning; see Park staff for more information on creek crossings.
For all overnight trips in the park Approved Bear Resistant Food Canisters are mandatory and a Wilderness Permit is required, both can be obtained from the Kluane National Park and Reserve Visitor Centre in Haines Junction or the Thechàl Dhâl Visitor Centre. For more information: Overnight registration.
Bear sightings are common in this area. Review recommendations for travel within the You Are In Bear Country brochure. All bear sightings should be reported to the staff at one of the Visitor Centres.
Parks Canada 24 hour emergency dispatch
1-780-852-3100
Cellular telephones do not work in most of the park. Satellite phones or satellite messaging devices are strongly recommended.
不徒步的朋友，在 Kluane NP 可乘小飞机观光，从空中俯瞰冰川也很震撼。 墓碑山则可乘直升机进入。当然飞进飞出的问题是，一路忙着拍照很难静下心来观景。
这一带的历史也很有趣。一百多年前十万年轻人来这里淘金， 一路死伤无数，最后赚到钱回家的没剩多少。
话说美国也是从艰难困苦中挣扎着发展起来的。这种精神哪里去了？