Under the Milky Way 0: Arrival

The Way

It is said that there is a long road under the Milky Way called the Camino de Santiago. Every year, thousands of people come here to walk this path and fulfill their wishes.
There is a belief that the direction of the Camino de Santiago coincides with the endpoints of the Milky Way. In ancient times, pilgrims navigated their way using the stars, constellations, and the position of the Milky Way.

Overview of the Camino Frances

Camino de Santiago is a general term for all the Camino routes leading to the final destination of Santiago de Compostela. The Camino Frances starts in a small town in southwestern France called Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPDP) and crosses northern Spain. It spans approximately five hundred miles or nearly eight hundred kilometers.

There are numerous books, websites, and Apps about Camino Frances, about all Camino routes. Along Camino Frances, there are over one hundred seventy villages, towns and cities. Most resources divide this route into 3 phases and 33 stages.

The first phase is for the body. This section includes many mountainous paths, steep inclines and declines, and offers the most classic and breathtaking views along the entire route, with mountains, rivers and animals. Successfully completing this challenging stage proves that your physical strength has endured a rigorous test, making it possible to continue the journey through the following stages. 

 

Each day, travelers walk according to their abilities, cover the distance they can manage, then spend the night at a roadside hostel/albergue to rest, wash their clothes, eat and continue forward the next day.

Every evening, many restaurants offer pilgrim meals (priced around 14-18 euros), with complimentary local red wine. Any additional drinks like beer or juice come at an extra cost.

 

The second phase is for the mind. It includes more flat terrain with different scenery. It lacks the rolling hills and mountains, yet it is said that this section of the Way tests the mental power and determination of the pilgrims.

  

The third phase is for the soul. It marks the final phase of the French route. Some say this stage will test a person's faith and beliefs. As the journey comes its end, pilgrims reflect on their reasons for embarking on such a pilgrimage and what lessons they will take away from this experience.

 

 

Road Less Taken — With so many routes, which one should I take?

 

I left home on a Saturday, first flew to Madrid, took a Spanish domestic flight to Pamplona, then shared a taxi with Eric, a gentleman from DC. Here I met Eric, the first pilgrim I saw on my journey. Eric came to find out the transportation to SJPDP, the same starting point as mine, while a warm-hearted local tried to help me get a taxi for the next 50 miles or so trip (1 hour and 30 minutes’ winding mountainous road crossing the Spanish-French border). Too bad that there was only one bus going to SJPDP on Sundays. It left at 12 noon.

It was a smooth journey from home so far, with much anticipation and excitement! This would be the first time in my life to venture on “a road less traveled,” solo, for more than a month, in a place where I had never been, nor did I know the language. What would my experiences be like walking on the Way for the first time? Might this be a calling to make me stronger? Or might this be a trap, an illusion to destroy me?

Starting Point: SJPDP (Saint Jean Pied de Port)

SJPDP in the southwest of France is usually the starting point for the entire Camino Frances (aka The French Route, the French Way). According to some online resources, the town has a population of around 1500. The town exudes a cultural vibe, adorned with intricate details. Walking its streets evokes a sense of beauty, history, and rich culture. The town features symbolic bridges over flowing water and a delicate charm. That day, while wandering through the town, I saw a few school-age children playing outdoors, kicking a soccer ball and happily admiring colorful stones of their own artistic creations).

 

 

 

 

 

The Pilgrim’s Office:

The pilgrim's office is a must-visit for most pilgrims before starting their journey. Here, people can obtain a passport for two euros to record their stops along the way. The day I got my pilgrim's passport, there were quite a few people there. Usually, pilgrims start collecting stamps at each dining place, accommodation, etc., as a keepsakes and proofs of their journey, ensuring they walked through each location and didn't take shortcuts, while also documenting the stories along the way. Here, the first stamp was imprinted on my passport. Exciting! From that day onwards, I could choose to collect stamps daily at churches, hostels/hotels, bars, cafes, and other places along the route for keepsake. “So much to look forward to!” I thought. That moment, I wanted to sing; I wanted to scream with joy…

 

 

In some formal places and all accommodations, one needs to present one's passport to get a stamp. A staff in the facility would write that day's date on the stamp to confirm that the person on the passport stayed overnight at that location on a specific day.

Pilgrim hostels offer economical accommodations and typically allow pilgrims to stay for only one night. On Booking.com, the default setting allows booking for one night. If you wish to extend your stay in a town for an additional night or more, you usually need to find another place to stay. Two of my roommates in SJPDP did just that the day when I was there.

Each walker can choose to attach a scallop shell to their backpack. The SJPDP Pilgrims' Office provides them, and people can donate some money to receive one. Scallop shells are also sold along the Way.

 

As the day wore on, as I wandered around, I found myself reluctant to return to the hostel. Lots to see in such a short time. Yet, the subsequent events would prove that this was a decision I would come to regret. As a pilgrim, by this time of the day, I should have taken a shower, washed my clothes (which should have been nearly dry by now), and prepared my belongings for the next day. I also should have found an ATM to withdraw some euros. However, in my naivety, I lingered outside, curious like a child, fascinated by everything, as if there were no tomorrow. But, that is a story for another time.

That evening, I stayed at a hostel, called “la Vita e Bella,” I later learned that there was a movie made with the same name. All the guests in the room I stayed turned out to be all pilgrims, and seven of us shared a room (co-ed). There were also other rooming arrangements in the same facility, I heard -- single rooms, a room with fewer/more people.

The former owners of this establishment, now a married couple, had a chance encounter on the Camino and eventually wrote a book about their experiences, the title the same with the name of the hostel. After running the hostel together for several years, they moved elsewhere.

 

 

 

The new hosts, a couple with two children, took over this small guesthouse just over two months ago. Prior to this, they had lived in India, Egypt, Israel, and other places for many years in search of enriched spiritual lives.

During dinner, a few of us sat together for the first time, introducing ourselves and chatting. One lady, let's call her "D", shared her personal story.

D recounted how she embarked on the Camino. Twenty years ago, she was involved in a car accident that left her paralyzed from the waist down for about fifteen days. The doctors informed her that she was permanently paralyzed and would not recover. However, her family and friends did not give up on her, and continued to pray for her. Around fifteen days after the accident, she began to feel a sensation in one of her right toes. Previously, she had to use a catheter, but then she felt the urge to use the restroom. This breakthrough was unbelievable to everyone. She firmly believed that her faith had enabled her to persist in her efforts to recover. Several years later, on this day, she sat here with us, ready to embark on the pilgrimage route!

Dinner that night consisted of vegetable soup, cucumber pasta, and Crepe with cream (chocolate sauce and powdered sugar) for dessert. The host provided red wine, but no one partook.

 

After dinner, we all retreated to our own bunk, to rest up for the next day. My first night on a bed after I left home! Reality hit before I got myself fully situated. After I washed, brushed and checked my laundry (of course not dry yet) and returned to the room, waves of loud snoring set in. First test of resilience arrived!

 

(Earned my first hostel stamp! Yeah!)

Long-distance travel, jet lag, and the excitement of starting a new journey, along with the snoring, I eventually didn’t sleep well that night. However, excitement temporarily suppressed fatigue. Next morning, I went downstairs for breakfast about twenty minutes later than the crowd. That extra sleep actually helped me gain some energy I much needed for the day.

 

Pyrenees Mountains

Leaving the town, pilgrims set foot on the Camino and began their journey through the Pyrenees Mountains.

This mountain range is the largest in southwestern Europe, with its peaks serving as a natural border between France and Spain – a visible boundary. The altitude and climate vary significantly, offering diverse flora and fauna.

According to those who have walked the Camino de Santiago, the first day is the most challenging. It is not just a physical and mental adjustment for those starting their journey, but the uneven road surface, varying elevations of the hills, unpredictable weather changes, and more, all present significant challenges. Some individuals push themselves to cover around twenty-five kilometers on the first day to reach their rest stop; others prefer to walk the initial seven and a half kilometers, allow themselves to acclimate to the challenge, spend the night in a hostel along the way, and then continue the remaining eighteen kilometers along the mountainous path.

 

This segment of the route includes many downhill sections, with the highest point reaching approximately one thousand four hundred meters (4600 feet). After strenuously climbing up, pilgrims must descend to the other side of the mountain. Sections of the path also contain loose rocks, where a misstep could lead to a fall.

 

Each place along the Way has its own distinct features, ranging from mountains to vineyards to farmlands, and more.

Most people carry their daily necessities in backpacks, weighing between 5-12 kilograms, with some carrying even more! Experts recommentde the weight of the backpack being around 10% of the body weight. I found it unachievable. Those with hiking poles have an advantage here. Of course, it is crucial to pay attention to the signposts along the route; a wrong turn could mean extra walking.

Although the Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage route, in reality, very few of the people I have met so far are walking for religious reasons. There are many other reasons why people choose to embark on this journey.

 

Along the Camino de Santiago, the scallop shell symbol is frequently seen. Its symbolic meaning is that all the scallop shell images point towards the final destination: Santiago de Compostela. The multiple lines on the shell represent pilgrims from all over the world, regardless of their starting point, ultimately arriving at the same endpoint – Santiago de Compostela, the final resting place of Saint James.

 

Legend has it that believers attempted to transport the body of Saint James by ship to a proper burial place. Unfortunately, they encountered a storm near a peninsula in Spain, causing the ship to capsize and the Saint's body to be lost. Later, they discovered the Saint's body completely intact, covered by scallop shells. Imagine the deeper significance of the scallop shells!

(The text and images in this article are original content created by myself, including shared images. Some are sourced from large screenshots on the internet, most of which are taken with my cell phone.)

Keywords: Fresh Encounters