正文
我得了一条裤子，试的时候很合身，裤脚不宽不窄，材料是麻丝的，夏天正好。最好的地方在于它把我那平淡无奇的PP美化成了结实的，微翘的PP，我把牌子的名字Google了一下，就发现了以下的情况：
LucianoBarbera
他是做男装的。对男装有一套自己的看法：男人要隐忍（detachment，不知译得准不准确），着装要精细，低沉，以暗合男人的性格。他公司的座右铭是： Clothing for people who believe in individualism and intelligence。以下是从他家网站上搬过来的，与大家分享，很有意思。
Suite
You do not need me to tell you that the suit is the key element in any gentleman's wardrobe. So I will tell you a story instead. I had my first suit made for me when I was 24, by the legendary Milanese tailor, Mario Pozzi. It took Mr. Pozzi 6 months to go through the process of fitting me and taking all my measurements. Then he cut the fabric, a beautiful saxony cloth, and personally delivered it to my door. When I tried it on, he and I were both very pleased. Why wouldn't I be? He was a genius. I was also eager to get back into my street clothes but he gave me this advice. "Put the suit on and keep it on. Wear it for two days straight. Eat in it. Sleep in it. Then it will not just be an exquisite suit. Sarà un tuo vestito - it will be your suit".
Jacket
Suit tells the world you are ready for business. A jacket tells the world you are open to fun. For me the ideal jacket should have soft and natural lines and balanced proportions. It should fit you but not constrict you. I do not believe in stiff shoulder pads. That is vanity, not style. Do not make it too tight. If it's too tight, you will look like a matador. Any time I see a man playing golf or tennis in his jacket, I know he and I could be friends.
Trousers
There are many schools on trouser length. In America they are often worn so that the pant leg tumbles over the shoes. Many Europeans now wear them quite short. You even show a little sock. What can I say? Perhaps we Europeans are secretly afraid of flash floods. The picture at right shows, quite literally, where I stand. I call this the Mid-Atlantic Solution since it is halfway between Europe and America. The pants just breaking lightly on the shoe. I do not want to see your socks, but I do want to see your shoes.（我不想看到你的袜子，但是我还是想看到你的鞋，有趣吧）
Shirt
I know I have said you can have too many clothes. But I take that back where shirts are concerned. The shirt is a triumph of modern life, like the automobile or the web. It is easy to put on and take off, quick to wash and easy to store. Plus, shirts look great. A man should own as many shirts as he wishes - the more the better. I personally have so many shirts that I sometimes walk into my closet, pull one out, and think to myself, "Now where did that come from?" Having lots of shirts will allow you to surprise yourself with your own good taste。
Tie
The tie follows the culture. In the 50s I wore a bow tie. In the 60s I tied a Windsor. In the 70s I went open-necked. In the 80s I had a big aggressive knot that said, do not mess with me. Now I find that what I want is a less-fussed-over-knot with a soft pleating. It is simple. It is declarative. It feels right. How will I wear my tie in the next decade? Who knows? Ask me then
Seasonal
Everyone knows you wear wool in the winter, linen in the summer, and a straw hat from June 15th to Labor Day. Everyone is right. And therein lies the problem. Follow these rules and you will look like everyone else. Better that you display a little originality. On the gravest days of winter I put on my gray flannels, a cashmere tie in a sober color and my white linen jacket. The pants keep me warm. The tie gains me entrée into good restaurants. The blazer reminds me that summer will come again.
真是个有趣的老头。我们何尝不是在认同一个牌子之前，先认同了它所代表的精神和品质。贴点他的女装吧，都是从他家网站上转过来的。
LucianoBarbera
他是做男装的。对男装有一套自己的看法：男人要隐忍（detachment，不知译得准不准确），着装要精细，低沉，以暗合男人的性格。他公司的座右铭是： Clothing for people who believe in individualism and intelligence。以下是从他家网站上搬过来的，与大家分享，很有意思。
Suite
You do not need me to tell you that the suit is the key element in any gentleman's wardrobe. So I will tell you a story instead. I had my first suit made for me when I was 24, by the legendary Milanese tailor, Mario Pozzi. It took Mr. Pozzi 6 months to go through the process of fitting me and taking all my measurements. Then he cut the fabric, a beautiful saxony cloth, and personally delivered it to my door. When I tried it on, he and I were both very pleased. Why wouldn't I be? He was a genius. I was also eager to get back into my street clothes but he gave me this advice. "Put the suit on and keep it on. Wear it for two days straight. Eat in it. Sleep in it. Then it will not just be an exquisite suit. Sarà un tuo vestito - it will be your suit".
Jacket
Suit tells the world you are ready for business. A jacket tells the world you are open to fun. For me the ideal jacket should have soft and natural lines and balanced proportions. It should fit you but not constrict you. I do not believe in stiff shoulder pads. That is vanity, not style. Do not make it too tight. If it's too tight, you will look like a matador. Any time I see a man playing golf or tennis in his jacket, I know he and I could be friends.
Trousers
There are many schools on trouser length. In America they are often worn so that the pant leg tumbles over the shoes. Many Europeans now wear them quite short. You even show a little sock. What can I say? Perhaps we Europeans are secretly afraid of flash floods. The picture at right shows, quite literally, where I stand. I call this the Mid-Atlantic Solution since it is halfway between Europe and America. The pants just breaking lightly on the shoe. I do not want to see your socks, but I do want to see your shoes.（我不想看到你的袜子，但是我还是想看到你的鞋，有趣吧）
Shirt
I know I have said you can have too many clothes. But I take that back where shirts are concerned. The shirt is a triumph of modern life, like the automobile or the web. It is easy to put on and take off, quick to wash and easy to store. Plus, shirts look great. A man should own as many shirts as he wishes - the more the better. I personally have so many shirts that I sometimes walk into my closet, pull one out, and think to myself, "Now where did that come from?" Having lots of shirts will allow you to surprise yourself with your own good taste。
Tie
The tie follows the culture. In the 50s I wore a bow tie. In the 60s I tied a Windsor. In the 70s I went open-necked. In the 80s I had a big aggressive knot that said, do not mess with me. Now I find that what I want is a less-fussed-over-knot with a soft pleating. It is simple. It is declarative. It feels right. How will I wear my tie in the next decade? Who knows? Ask me then
Seasonal
Everyone knows you wear wool in the winter, linen in the summer, and a straw hat from June 15th to Labor Day. Everyone is right. And therein lies the problem. Follow these rules and you will look like everyone else. Better that you display a little originality. On the gravest days of winter I put on my gray flannels, a cashmere tie in a sober color and my white linen jacket. The pants keep me warm. The tie gains me entrée into good restaurants. The blazer reminds me that summer will come again.
真是个有趣的老头。我们何尝不是在认同一个牌子之前，先认同了它所代表的精神和品质。贴点他的女装吧，都是从他家网站上转过来的。
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