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2019 冰岛、法罗 (draft)

(2019-08-29 12:56:16) 下一个

徒步计划如下:
Day 7 Reykjavik - Landmannalaugar hut, evening hike Bláhnúkur mountain (Blue Peak Mountain)
Day 8 Hrafntinnusker Hut, evening hike Mt. Söðull & ice caves
Day 9 Álftavatn Hut,  evening hike Mt. Brattháls
Day 10 Emstrur Hut, evening hike Markarfljótsgljúfur canyon
Day 11 Thorsmork Volcano Hut, evening hike Valahnúkur
Day 12 Thorsmork Basar Hut, day hikes Tindfjöll circle & Stakkholtsgjá Canyon
Day 13 Fimmvörðuháls Hut
Day 14 Skógafoss - Reykjavik
































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August 14, 2019 Laugavegur Trek
在冰岛高原徒步,从Landmannalaugar一路向南,走过五彩地热,黑色沙漠,最后来到火山冰川包围的绿色山谷Thorsmok。途中不出意料遭遇雨雪、冰雹、沙尘暴。。。还有强风强风强风。。。和阳光??。当地人说,你们运气很棒碰到冰岛最好的天气,一路风光全看到。哈,这下我雨神的帽子算是甩掉了吧?

今天按计划在Thorsmork休息走Day Hikes,午后终于下了大雨。在Volcano Hut吃了无数个Apple cakes和apricot cakes,等到雨过天晴,山谷周围的冰川披上雪白新装分外妖娆。

明后两天要继续向南,走最后一端Fimmvörðuháls Hike,希望老天眷顾,让LD看到漂亮的 Magni和Móði Craters,2010年冰岛火山爆发形成的最新火山喷发口。


Aug 19, 2019 Fimmvörðuháls hike 
凌晨到家,历时16天的冰岛、法罗之旅结束。目前除了GPS不知去向,其他貌似一切顺利。

55km的Laugavegur之后我们接着走Fimmvörðuháls hike。绝大多数游客选择一天走完这25km山路,但我们走了两天,中间在Fimm Pass住了一晚。这次徒步走得特别慢,全程住了7个不同山屋,以至于其他驴友笑我两是专程来冰岛考察Huts的。花这样多时间徒步对假期有限的我们算是非常奢侈,但我很享受这样的慢节奏,慢慢看沿途的景色,晚饭后四处闲逛或跟其他游客海阔天空地聊天。。。

Fimm hike的第一天是不停地爬坡,从绿色的Thorsmork山谷一路上升1000多米到达冰川覆盖的Fimmvörðuháls Pass,沿途经过2010年冰岛火山爆发的两个喷发口。LD在火山口一带上爬下爬、左看右看玩了很久。。。当晚住宿的hut没有水源,LD顶着狂风跟Warden去挖雪化冰。过滤后的雪水喝起来有一股怪味,大概是火山的味道吧?

第二天的亮点是下山途经的二十多条瀑布。在黄土高原第一眼看到瀑布挺激动,忙着拍照,但很快就审美疲劳,匆匆走过懒得多拍。一直走到步道终点,在Skogafoss的彩虹下才再次掏出手机,给这次highland徒步画上句号。。。

在冰岛的最后两天是自驾,我们再次踏上highland road。可惜在狂风中没能爬成计划中的最后一个山头也没泡成温泉,有点点遗憾。但冰岛那野性荒凉的大气,那rugged beauty, otherworldly landscape 给我们留下深刻印象。。。下次来,希望能像在最后一个hut中碰到的这群英国老人,组个Land Rover车队,走遍冰岛高原路。

up to Brennisteinsalda across the Lagahraun lava field and then back down again through the Grænagil canyon (or in the other direction, Grænagil first).

It is a “circle” through and around the Laugahraun lava field. In 1477, an eruption from the slopes of the Brennisteinsalda volcano gave birth to this small lava field. Although small, it is one of the most interesting lava fields you can find in Iceland. The regular basalt lava is blended with numerous shining black obsidian rocks—a combination exclusive to only a handful of other fields in the area.

The hike starts at the FÍ (Ferðafélag Íslands) service center. You have to go straight through the lava field to the west on an excellent hiking path. After crossing the field, a breathtaking view of the magnificent Vondugil (Bad Ravines) valley will open up before you. The mountains surrounding the valley are colorful, and the view is absolutely something for the camera.

continue at the west edge of the lava field towards Brennisteinsalda, the volcano. The path is a bit steep, lined with small rocky lava steps all the way up to the open and colorful small sulfur rocks and hot springs that are sometimes covered with smoke. This place therefore has a strong sulfur smell. At this point, you turn and walk east through the lava field again. This part of the lava is a bit rocky and more difficult to walk all the way to Grænagil ravine, but it is shorter than the path through the lava from the service center. From the ravine with a colorful river bed, you will finish the walk at the service center.

Brennisteinsalda (Sulfur hill) is a small mountain/volcano, approximately 800 meters high. On most days, standing at its top gives you a great view of Landmannalaugar and its surroundings, and even a good look at the Icelandic Highlands.

https://hiticeland.com/most-popular-one-day-hiking-trails-in-landmannalaugar

https://www.extremeiceland.is/en/attractions/landmannalaugar-information

D0 Aug 9 Landmannalaugar Mt. Bláhnjúkur peak hike
18:18 - 21:25 (3:07:38)
Discent 4.5km
Ascent 388m
Descent 397m
Max Elevation 1045m
Min 687m

Aug 10-16 Laugavegur Trail & Fimmvorduhals Hike
for its untouched wilderness and remarkable views.

Total Distance: 114.3 km
Ascent 5334m
Descent 5760m
Max Elevation 1257m
Min Elevation 227m

D1: Landmannalaugar - Hraftinnusker Hut
8:51 -12:44 3hr55min (14:28 -  Plus Evening hike 
Distance 13.1km (10.5km)
Ascent 939m (734m)
Descent 484m (288m)
Max Elevation 1257m (1171m)
Min elevation 688m (688m)

D2 Alftavatn Hut
9:02am – 14:32 (
Distance 17.5/29.7km (23.8km)
Ascent 601/1815m (1394m)
Descent 1084/1831m (1407m)
Max elevation 1142m 
Min Elevation 651m

D3 Emstrur Hut
9:04
Distance 17.3/51.2km (47km)
Ascent 395/2504m (2217m)
Descent 409/2589m (2301m)
Max Elevation 732m
Min Elevation 601m

D4 Aug 13, 2019 to Thorsmork
8:42am - 
Distance 20.6/73.7km
Ascent 731/3276m
Descent 988/3619m
Max Elevation 605m
Min Elevation 323m

D5 Aug 14 Thorsmork Day hike
Distance 17.5km
Ascent 661m
Descent 604m
Max Elevation 670m
Min Elevation 342m

D6 Aug 15 Fimm Hut
8:42am – 15:37
Distance 10.5/80.8km
Ascent 1004/4969m
Descent 183/4452m
Max Elevation 1231m
Min Elevation 409m

D7 Aug 16 Skoga fall
8:52 - 14:38
Distance: 15.4/114.3km
Ascent 209m
Descent 1145m
Max elevation 1223m
Min Elevation 271m
 

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小黑猫 回复 悄悄话 回复 '金大班' 的评论 : 我就是瞎玩。你从工作上的收获更多啊。
点点滴滴风和雨 回复 悄悄话 好美
金大班 回复 悄悄话 再看再顶,每一帧照片都可以和世界地理杂志上的媲美。火山口那张真是非常珍贵,不是航拍是亲眼所见,很震撼吧?我这辈子可能不会HIKING了,这么美的风景得有人抬上去才能看到:)这些年跟着你的游记也游历了不少地方,尤其是那些我这辈子都不可能会去的地方,羡慕。等待你的下一次旅行。
Masefild 回复 悄悄话 火山湖很美,联想到俄勒岗州的 Crater Lake.
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