走到法兰西城门 Porte de France 【注一】时突然人声鼎沸。
这是到尼姆的当晚,我们从住所出来吃晚餐,顺便到古竞技场Arena附近看看。一路行人稀少,直到法兰西城门始听到另一侧传出的嘈杂。
穿过城门,一辆卡车横在街中央,军警们挎着冲锋枪站在街道两侧。
“是不是ISIS捣乱?”,牧嫂有些担心。这时卡车后面音乐响起来了,于是走过去一看究竟。
走过去才发现满街筒子都是人,一个七八个人的小铜管乐团正在演奏,音乐就是从这里传出来的。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/akI8e038ROqFdA5gwAoeMIIYLRq_KPo4CL4B_nmCdRpmV4qODyU6Sr9MdY1EfKC59Q4FupQWNo0W4TXzZRHmQfn0HKmHDLGDkWdsOs-OIMEyw_BDTpuoxp1QzGbFjqSrxAWye2JD-P-yWxM1ovaCibmsBBLf7YFts629rrdyq9UI6cnMtmFArQkbNTrvAaeGDYDGOYO9pEf54rGZS6V3PkJJ2MLIhy30T1Qsdqh6_jEcKVLAOyLbQezIr7ypwW8fC26mvVo9eEkpJ-mf7lWIEoDBNDiwx78s9kI433CEAK7xUIe-W0oBi6rO8RlQg6ZMyOWlvRU1-RQCgOVodDoX6Jaxf1n2LDtSb3RaGSZw2Jwf7DYGSe01RxT-2Ol1wZ_9ZJodiPw4jlJFBligBi7bDKkOEg-GN4z79jvtRrhyGREl2QZaeduBb9yhBkaVt0CTVHci6O90LnxrsVEIQdUdR-ady8BBHsCaoljbUF8hIBhLL0rbKd1c_bjxDETH1NX6MLt2jfNhaLHqAaACuE1bxSVNCv7gUs-yF4Nwjcq0Eq1O3ukcUM2ktKWkmtAuAvPyLrfejld_hgqAq3M_l5TnQfHXcF2G2N3XUJozc2AdZL2uBEPjsnQc5BuZnBzWoAW-Mys11ADKZKP2rtPZ2rQOX-8eDFJ1qpsRmg=w1527-h1145-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yqQMracYJWw9GsG7422cidF0B6u3lWZNWJOwYp_0Zysiw2u5jUa164dHT2attDWrQF_S588Qui8ViJFnklXhsx3STz3k_VukiLHiHJ7OJ7JAQh89WnfY9pP3Zv4_ZDr6_ll_XYPbrYNx6c4Szl4hSLFhy0bLhEas7Wh_PsG-5svZkCSjYj7ARIE9NmnzQmB98mppKr3b-NoMKKIuSRlUcjj7alE99yY96VY4qBguYahpqaVpTST5C6F4FSBWXoNdvOmvr7v5j4qbEm9NYHoyf_ECZUAalYyI6OQfiRRCCwlFPe72wieGhtA1Z4j1HZGTgZZ037y6q9ItX7KHzTbo6Fen8f4tN0OjRFsH1_5q1gWRO0WEwYGdS924YWKo9QCrJISPdDY25S6VtgFbl6pAfi00YDzrAFlPrrjVI-8C90kG_WJGRR83mdSIT5ZuWZ1SmYAW79NnEXPpuINlp6aUym2I4MmFCfu4ozS5yUXfvifkRK_tgv6IiKaAEBClVXcvtoUW5DZhdpVyluwVz944a0tkgIDGowW9gHSdY3mjIpso-Fxm4G-qmohPJjDBCPS-pVuAgs5wqESVdKNQCJnHfD0YPZgpg2315NexbX9PTU4c3GEjd6WyKCeuT-GFsHxBldM0tLKjHHcZs3ShcXATD5nNjup0J5LZ3Q=w1589-h1192-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YeWlBKA-ayLMmfeW_ZCJYM8dmJAdEIIh39q5tGswqtfQzaakOvf6B_XIPSHaB_7sjMhfZ1fITdcsyOw0XB3ShSQQSjPiKFAINsIb1sFoCtaXy10pQDny9zjRJl6FWwvI6pSQ4kZMLH1LL6NWQeIJR11_4S0WrrcKbMTsVr08Dl3rUJ1qad21b8-n2536ajzbn4RY5jpsOfshd5IwkP0B6WNURyEHaAwtbsd6TMcU1iPXG_hpxFjgf48_xYwXSDLWVw7heuce4b3k7-LY9nyetzKJ8pYc2NMOBZdgkwLHl1trfDBecDeietyI4AZ_wu52vfqyDUrxymEUKTJgcNqtYECzgsCdmDSYiE5EZGL-SsWbESFWtwMeXHmO1tBOjLSGY-Z1uqvKmywyC8SAm6E_RLl1QMF4KDvlfA1jWWkz8D_w2u3jIpegTQEGdubzsGNx9dbOnj74vGlGmpsfpMQC_dcCkK5HvahlSK3zYDUJRMGq1Odbpq1Tu-hFIfYrA0qrTu54ZKrK8mughUxBIqr82UkCMCgLQWSZfxLoFTy0_RnTxnTjYchIyOuG8C5-DUUkJDeisdq8vDDRLvDhtC9M24TUSRRtcJz-wP-kGF3qOsanZ8cvh91jwgosywHpULaCdeCLsvEQMxuCHVUiR9354kvcV8rqgkaZjQ=w1448-h1086-no)
尼姆:街头表演
竞技场附近非常宽阔,人更多了,很多摊贩在卖东西,竞技场里面更是传出了《斗牛士之歌》。我们正在彷徨,人流从竞技场涌出来。
我们索性加入人流,朝更热闹的地方走。来到戴高乐公园 Esplanade Charles-de-Gaulle,整个公园被食肆大棚、摊贩和街头表演彻底占领;其中一家卖海鲜饭的大棚,不仅吃客如云、而且歌声震天,于是我们参加进来。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nQExSEN_GI0XSQczo6IkKexa8p9Kr_fGMwBzNoItua891upPjR7saIWs9HBqtZgwrSfzkScwY2cJGrI4PNWLFLwx5NQYrmMjSSpxBbaA8QUTq0qgBMcjKHvtKZOBtHp7uWeRKKw3dyAlIU-86MytLaf1w1MtK6f1BVxbZAJcwN4g1qtWAPtRiw42qldpJwg9bnvULYUXYjeo2zSZRltY7vtI7HxMj5YSM7E3yXm9Nhrru8VSBeIRw2mdFZDQgPjnO1rC6TJk7mbuQOxUD_IW9z7RXwicLXFoaQe8ySUbge36WD4pySiIEQkNxF7JJalT6Zo2ogx0PgIsBSON_BNuzJ02dOQSU4oBWHwitNlUEKEX2j0pCSrJxs-IU0f7UcXPYSotqOHrdSc0JALgl5ky-uFEXy8w0Ea7d_cTirgDRgeqKQA5kwFFwAbEWY79yReHcNGcwL4matZwLALWvzPrcrRo9HxKyguanyLhg0PltKGDUds__i-wDsoUg3lvRu4ndodGMdMtCgF2JRTVCljEkRwDDzEXgU0nEnCRw03Rz0yBbX2PVmtAnzLp6oNcDt0rRfn5yQvoALiTLdCLqyVv-A9nRljkVC1TnE1hePTZf8YoXbt9JhAxYYoW8CGcexVudQwbfOv2a35j0iB2ehzhzdYOIvlxnq_BaA=w1589-h986-no)
尼姆:食客们边唱边吃
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fT7rP_mU2FG9aLbWpe0H8vSzuImRw5aDGT3qihTVmtfjAnNNdAD0W35MiQnAWiZQ_cdI1qICbxuIqaBGWnOUveNI3IRBjhSAs6h_ZkjoVkrqBl1YSD5RjCUSW_2SfR-jIbFtKlVyTNGdb-QCyhXknL_2tsaQS-QhZS30YiT7A8yWwfwewHENP-Iif_z76QlnSU9U9_jmXHhLnoBxP1qyyNXoKORsZ9XSUbRRAz7y0Nv_zoTAblOr_HI_8EnjraW55DJpPZvKCDRjRiIY1LhBNcuGZFDii0aYsj50fOHfRtuaRcgTfTD0A8fggseXMT-UIJA0SK3DrhoTH1YN4ZNXvqSQTgLeRvIHdFmhOvoNFQFCNOAAqc3ELiXNVi-0MF-rlvF42oPlHfYQlZ1MgGuzxnZ1JHjdf-6JxAypc0Eu1ZIT3LAUIV-XqRPuk-taaXnvv5_lb4QTX-kInQaw0mYjTxqjk9IWe_QQNnM04JIbLOWs7KdMDetnR2hz7NgOomVbvuoqiBBDKRPQ5YDX7iVJ5rrHaVAl7nEvWINsup64-7f7M0LT2gAfKr228R4b8FDKx5xOlDGOBd9UJZOZ7OUsTOAkXV1rhd-AvN5ZZpRyRX_SMX6dAmwAjWA0VyMO7Cm81bv5gPk79e-FZSjS4-wT8c9-9olersgnCw=w1448-h1086-no)
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![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cTZDU2jo00tu_cxI3O2wdN27g2tdtrtMAMOuhAjiuuJHUVLwICS-g376kDi8msxXbjnlQR5U9d-lEEx-KZrDBKCs1QHbIAk6_LKbnEQmsuKtHvq3n7-d7_07xyM0pWFDPxrI35Am9vM5S0QoOeesIAMVZxGdD0vIEKjlcyvWvJpxPqldihGKD8bIofm-57OzusWMkTtYIkBzgt9ikQqM5_6JKYnF-VaoTrHVI9ExVxEuRK1PQgDRBSaorRBFiw2nneJx7Hgc_aPlz_6-mVUXYao96zKuhApD8lWPMePx-_0nm7Jc_9b-nlD7qOU1bR1xqCG5FuVyfqBWuXAHUArdnVM2k04SsA3xkcTKibwTHUGLL_i1H9goI2UxlJV9iZNx71RR5LtOw_oy-pO-yH3_600yZ6-utMqZsdUrdNrnJeBl__mp7dnf6_QCqQuChhqYfslPWB8jAAjoJ5Gcm11bu6YJglAcBPL8tkxBQtETrBeWkroShSGMk_HIeUNTRxJpGxGKS8lpPV1iTCsGnwe1SvIx5E2UI0_smwExUaSAfAS_JpCUq3S6a-1ndPIooYso8ZzZYudsHtzHOFvXvAsPTYvoidcRkzvXCnfVpxpifoAewxbeVivI7NMgOBwn-Nxqu3o0SXkkRSwMs7K7wX_Yp0tsGz1Hpsw3_g=w1448-h1087-no)
面对这样的场面,作为吃货只有两个字:吃呀!
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吃喝完毕,我们走上宽阔而人山人海的雨果大街,看到上空闪烁着一个巨大的电子指示牌,上面写着: Feria de Nîmes【注二】 。怪不得橙镇罗马剧场的售票员、嘉德水道桥的一位德国大妈听说我们要去尼姆时以及以及在尼姆的房东Andre大叔都跟我说一个词:费雷拉,原来就是 Feria - 尼姆狂欢节呀!
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0EcTP14aB0FMKBIocYT1TGQrl0cFPwqQ5qElsSfFyqQPns5AgVnSoGNj-WjQb3jnUdvXjnm5CvPhO22ZDSVeNQ0RfOK3ZHWBXayTP8uwixQ1q7DE89I43NhAC7yMlGNogV_5WSmX1OAXbQcHMSAoH_uSpCu_6wptjlXJkE5PA3fSOEdRzRaXYX1jBoT3Vf2BrqXAO32GItlR01fX9eRlqZsi6Ikskpd_8m-9jCTw-Ei7P3zmzqJJ--kARRijVOLuDg1d-KFgWI7h74cWXiGBNLq-tL09QZocplFtjetO1TtkfhT-krzCSBP-_rjnF0shfkG3tKrB712GOm-nhJ5h8H7EcUzoBrqWvGKtp9qKImxMhBZNiIuztkcXiIeoAORAd9CNQmDW3H6h_O28-98ab_ElIh6i8PvW3PCu-ta0ZacGB5L9LtN7fJAZ9llADjCLWezJUkkyknTol71h3YxmrWBDsapVhZHb8sA_J667WNF43O8W5dA_ZlPXwBdgsSuII6wjNTfIAG3uwjuESBeknJBTG9CANOgzlx6NgnNpJVETea56fPCTZ9LYaTPlJABBUVb71mAGM1rHqNk1zdpIURdjSq9RqP-oWxuA5ELaIymnfmsLOhA9D8MBXRjk95U-nvSp07hWSrz-D7F0OLz5LuqdbxYr_HHzDA=w1448-h956-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EjQDeWDLf5IFEf7Unx8HYimFqfUlWo1_cP938Wq8kNmNXF7LxaH7UPcZdyfuddlOSB3AuQ-BAV96hIWcleEaeKgiiphFj7RiB8P5KlnXl8iulaOe5ilpaGCjRDJsxF37mMMXzWMReOjlBFNZ9wYcYbAtaCnF1qmpG1BTFlUbgG2HBzlosmHqvL_QSLOVAn1_J9RP68yb4x0Yg-PPq78i7fAJkfj01wnKnh2IYI0Nqtm_IqkToSoy0UaTAru1xyXPau-neVLZxvpmZgRizHFfQZFKvddOvXqOIAQ12_lST9wtkbGQrz0GU5uOBpnT-mWQIF4BSAZRnwgIY9r2L-3r4bN-253PVKzqBc-H_9hKvfZf3kBlKcH57szRk1p7GL0n1_Lbjnx14veTqURlkT-yNyeRFc-sfBez03Nkf4svE-6gUTIbqxC8l6g4NisRTu-GGX3B9stOe--rS1EtVcBKscLhfGVbu7Mn-BvyZnLRqP0_pmdCsjQjvnMD4jhvm4wJlz9F1B5SrUIxZJxygbHlLL7nHMnoFV_Q7NxgEf4qeR00zYDZyRjYEwq_UCZhlvWYnzIjhaspRNl_S1-xbzhiA2hcSkCYWrSKMeyBZj_3zs76XT5sJFyrhcXhhN107OknmdhTziobUaP4LmJqv15Spped878r7FNU_g=w1448-h1086-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PZNGquZMe8WheELOUnkW2glzG5NP_kzkjauHf67RX_THdZzW8rYzx8IsVR2vXvOmoVMkDWVZ1SLMCViS6lzgljrNwVA-Wg_hD6eBeCIyrqpXn-GtInOyWCioCMhyzo3DvLh7WT2rV5t7T33IM3wp3yACq6h2uMltGDcU9p8vJ6uS0f34FemdFkJCqKIfRfnZLByZ5isLqfl3tMopBlk2D0cW8q3Om6fO-pvUcXXbUI0W4B5ksrbfs9bQ5N7R6MnboMoPpzoVe4qJ9zOMcMxsCZgQSO_ZHiqgRI096UAEi4FiULV5unLGCZU3cmi_IaafDm2JEpfYFmxuVVoldBtKXHF6EDuEL5BulRt1iujOU2NAl1azKF7_jjbiPvE1BuIWQSo8TmQA_MwFKURJs_uHzlSjS471k_LRPfgASRb_VtrznD5QejbtI3xDzRwUZNZ8ZC9FevTZ9H-dg9M_BalqleYy-coEUS8vKpq_WEjQ5XdkqKcXBWiRaIQR2VmUt9nMwZivziPMyFO8yYdciVVQWOPdMC7zyy0Mzb7FRfjNxyaGgG9A1t-joyky5IUpJRjoEj31U_BRusiNqfNpyO8L8KSs03ihv4MuMvUKA2u8VgLcTM4MfhUpQC4IJRxauxR-te3FyCEYm-kBVLYbWh_lYdV9N8rmt33SNw=w1448-h1086-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K6ZPSuYJvCWTkFCThy22k4ni6POXnQ30DyoDymutoEfmadn-hN0tmv2YqVjZZ36YhJf7aiMprLw3xWrcaHo5EzyQhRIhi_OpvwtKCHgOMNrlGC-2abgeNGEKa_nyAJqM-GcZOt3Y4IOJhgHVtoljRm6AHz2DbL-CCX8LmmiWU2gb1L9cP0INXCZp3rpnGzhtCswoECTcEozOEJchd6Ii5a8SIH4Jtuz7IQg-O2oE4KW2y-LkSjbPo5GyCAsWssg4VnuxLTiBPiqF055BHm4oqdM6VWoMnkF7JFhvnUANf0JC-ZLGjRLLm7oXoILZvVbpdHGNuesH5J4YAtwUf2v-p_EXdrCBoGY0yWGij0HFG-i7wOltCXpF_kxcYDSiQ3JmsrtWNOWP6u6BTcKzOhEdGFMBvWC0cA4tTp4ErtSobgA9iWWssRi1G0uQ77KO0jDSIghd71qzJ7xpKQZmlyhLQcz8t8Q5lamihCemv_P9FBQwaPKVDNPxI-gXT7sJr8XOhiWgHWxG-xOLU0pxfR2GQ7s0uMhOKCu6eofJtZkhHprq9fnPrPPJtMjfeFNydNhDaaYAYGaJDiWkGvPFhC9zNCkYAHWql1byYO5b5RKuIvTt8_9ZZBRTeQ4OT1JiVQoGY8bykxC6rGVmIpzNDQoF7xTsIisefQyYng=w1448-h1086-no)
尼姆:狂欢节
第二天我们又来到古竞技场看斗牛。按照Rick Steves的介绍,普罗旺斯的斗牛其实是戏牛bullgame,很像西班牙牛奔【注三】,不同的是bullgame在体育场进行、参加的是身着白短衫系红巾的专业选手,视频非常有趣。
我们就坐时斗牛已经开始了,很多人站着大声呼喊。很快我们就发现不对劲了,因为斗牛的都骑着马、寻机把标枪扎到牛身体里,然后衣着精致鲜艳的斗牛士一剑将牛刺死。在全场掌声雷动欢呼雀跃时,我们却不忍直视。
我们看到的不是bullgame而是bullfight,怪不得尼姆的房东Andre 跟我们说他不喜欢斗牛。上当了!
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/guiNo5RRjhCk8ndM94pKU22p9bFkcbPpdrlK7gJsSZi5PostONlYKi6gn5LSs8ifWaDs2Rlq7ldb54BH4RwYFKAv7ky91OPZHroUW6YgUhpDLPgxWnIkU-Dmbq3ZhUf1D5XZopXPAV73ZlcH2UuKG3fMKFkrRTI6yfdNXd44Vs-9-T1QiWxXnvjM_XbflWv3-K-UnAb-ONzJX-w9R7OCIQ8aitwLhx_vbYldbSbQxqnwZluUtc3CGxfXaicw8ochHJecLK63XLzB8jw7RqaPjWV09-IAr9GNYAU5Yg1mvPJY0dHRojaMins2xkNlB2CqI4PouwtnuHW4nmfeZ6c35GjKNbMQBxOJM3VR2owpI8bQmPry-4Sk4GCiPOR6tIo9iunTk1MaxnBe5x5Mkx66dTU_HsioN9NEqKJwpDWrEL1OPxNuJFkPKZKLqBLc-PYDbcM96FOtz8ewhA7cCgJ8jP1V2mxfP4oX0F9UpeI-7Xh_iAHMU6tYyLQFfI1DZhDsg6h51O0GiBb5GbyVORDYdbA-1Ym-53fUpktdX-fa4Fk_li2wmetYWJJuUtgn4PmsdFJito1xpmU9FAoqwlkFOBU-oZyNewqNyy-KCmRyrene-_SY2syEdoCqzPm09vTQJfdWFvwwHuk89MD_b3ljka0hQZkC6BmEyQ=w1589-h1064-no)
尼姆:狂欢节上的街头表演
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QXtxazqU6SQzQ0a9RgGKb60Hx_C5Y1jxSOpFyz7nmgnMEoIxgt812otK0wI_PjNXd_bGWRv8kqs-cfYGelgRSgpwg3Bu9-Guhi5M00bRCfBCgO2zsGXy4W-ni4O_fI27hjQIdvk5tSZ0oy45WXUTRf6-8vilJz8q4jc6UWEX_OULSAitTi2lCnFV0SfSbLXSq_nkGw3ox1BMgpfikdpONElokeRll9CKpdoqbZpOR44gB-aqEzzpwS7HqcaSrZFN8_mFaCvYJMHHWoPra6gv26Eh6MRQCp1ctrNHhoOc0KpPZNBbxhq28rdiH-EhTWQeRH9rRqwCdM2XQjFlazxFzRmOGHDig9I81LtKbGF7zwPRk9EGvivKewqgphM4hrxW1XEY1wnHOMVAboQOGTLROD1xOLSoZmaGl75oKRQSaJDvSzfKvBRQYjBmb8OzZSoryB99BmY1SrUppDXe1Bx-_4L5M9piWJx-jVoya5VkToH6c25aZC6ASQuWSp7zQ_prczpPtZQ01tS2ZoSM089gCUk-2C1yDiHIDTgQS8-FI_qgsCOdIhsn64WPlFk5gNVKwAdhdUhImOTK6Vj8zXGM88A1eqn9_9G3TCB_A0j82CMxjzje4trbOfw0HuQT1_Ax5023JTvP_3uag3SLto5W9gsDd77Qq9OeeQ=w900-h529-no)
尼姆:想看的是bullgame
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![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6x8RNsfvY3HTbDi24tUpPOXtFHzpaDmyb5TxW4oPKuBmJ1a1J_WpQ7lHydTGWixFVK8l8euGEMFwDCRhIYpGsH13En8WKbL_ZaiEk2KrsKHyTESdUvki91ZeTe04BoyN76vbBmiYdAKkKd0Fj4BOBXK5Vl-0AbUj3dzbGrUlPEFMepVG5QJOAUULgeELbHP6ovvhKdYneTEm7DGhaqMgW5YoGuQD5tAzlsKVmbMZBDN1Vi8fJ-TfID_T7NLfqv-sVqf-l-jt5J5uGxQySN0v1LtTSclWtujmdGqvbBxE_da1-mnwpfSUr59kCW4y8VCwA39qq9IBwrtq7zwNIs--pwXEoeDO9Y6sLL9UhMrASRlawWSZ5NzuzFno1CYMj8l2memoBSMZjc_5u3AEFtxIBIGoGFFN7BZpdpD62178rMqwnvcFUlceWZnwGth0_Of5NTAWa3MCVSCkGfL2i4fWjzbUiH6kDXcdi7ebB58l2jKxlJoUW9V9-BWWJHkOTE96BvU__FDotcIpk54pyXCxiMKAFIyS6D0HvDwix-lTHkXooTJVjdNwII_tI1u-qhHaNeaUXX9DTj1tViXZPqSQ3Nvc_9H7KfyNDS5HPKRNK25cc49ulfB7NdqwhbSnvDyzXRhCPNy2Y3Z70j-4qCpw1OoL5-0tP2QZKQ=w1031-h1204-no) |
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vwQxUHJ7Ctur1T_j7fEjvasD6q4jL9B-pVS_G_YnAhz6FUUjv5mYFm7OH2NjP9ZU2ag2JcOb4E05NelOaDNUaQTyqOGFvffCBq_6Qs8y66Xv2nVe21SLP9QYqLwMSUTVdQ1lVB4UvSLjYrcLf7HXqYiQgfojpHuV8UftPUS7Wo1tUqA0rAzstT9TMPGGLxBsVYVYFhwnVz5VI3qzxJi0VbBEaWA7YkOW-PEKzOTV5FkHaQc2djt_9nJFYTaNEL_JQPkVhTBHzsFXaJs828M0az6wcc8-Xs9HcKXxaPGG2VbSDTqGpqtCghp4VXhSZc0E6EVvz4yBfzvH9qhCGl4R6N8OIb5tdmkSDsqGErZIfVGn_xAu9Cvj811ewCO7AbvsqsK9r6h-4-NApn1qnCj2rZsbYQQ54DU3Qbm8ydJvyreUfxDslC9usy-pqBc_qM8zgJsMJ5cWOYndRqpjDgN0dI0CGVep9ykkpEL3y1_oDrdLOTSD0G_OmcjJoXkOycc81jTnC4EiCKXQpaY88B27Ju867QRkPq79Eq8uX4PS2JI-QpXZAhiW-RQFSh1j_QDZFcgZherCL-NsF1auffeIP0xOI1xmrOf0OU0PRvKUqLqqLSRcpQ4-Mag0-Je4CFDtUObUsQ6FZf8TXoS-614J-lgZcvn9nGmaVg=w1589-h1192-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q9YxI8Z1m-XO-7oTitYX1WFU2kshKA6E83-pONvLihpFCxScEq5meKOwZeBq03nXcnPZIiywIIgKO1KPTFKNZhLCJahYdoNHefmeQsR_r527LGsf6GuGGsHT9BCk6wD2QJIiVtfMGYU8TbUk4u6ukbE-KsEPnrqupBY-VQde-mxDxvHXWBO3xufNykcqe2APVinFJou-lalzkD-ZNOa6JIKoE2U_U7u2PpPpS2RNii4Yf5D6wihXiXonyB8maniiARgXFhBqNbGkm6d_o8K8Si2GZ_jMGzHHidlAghV0wmgs0Ssn412iP8NV-sDsff0kvA7lJ6-3DnD9LFlv4iD0GH80y8N-gOv3mqs3tzZj_Wsd-JuvUi14mgterUwZU1nxVLPIwoSvaUCk9wkiTQXp5zqrn-vF_FHBlbjvw3knHRdAXBiJv_lsjwn8h2ww5dt-Fdjd9dUjb7Gis_Q250CYngkIS9BFG-GljYE8CpzqLDMnzyTC3bzaVmDT2fuVIrAVEvr3KGLW1hdRBGv2E6xnCyE7kFDLhDHCOzDwy8sdL18hNTjq5wcaSaheZLsWTkib_HRmnjAspgTG1Tx-XgWIPs4TiOvUJRS41P_tntXuFHFmbQiiLogkNv6MOeO01hy5vwAQkC9U6Pefc_vtB5yAMGCMGuEFPV_Qhg=w1589-h1192-no)
尼姆:看到的却是bullfight(太血腥的就不贴了)
我们不能接受的斗牛,当地人却如醉如痴
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Wb08454gOvu4fS-cKxi0OP6uF221kOftxOJCCQ783aqaUsXC8apeUtZu0HZGgd0xkgvgpgXNqV2Vgdt4MviZDrRIyQl-fBRNDf1hC6I2lwBKJiiIRPz97PBff0yqN0H_bx8l2TXZaj2I4Xajm3MP6-h-zNECfq_9jViGvYqZ1nuMZtzP5Sa-4k6QjUMjcw6TuQuosQPVZL1HjpDBk_ZODcNcXlnEXnULyEWhdgxyu41Vi7Cgxs3vtcfW7uMMIv82y2iGTgEPMHSXJ62Pq0csgcwjphhKBWNzNBVpthfa8k82h_xMARKKMSTTY0q5wZsd7kVpPZP2PhtVYqhBAQGL_GAKJ2X6R8K61FISi2j62jM_9FVmvV9VO-QRFv0bkK1Zv8QdXvB1IY1ifkDpC7duxWOXWA4U1EIhVw3oeSpKift4bAE6JcSmGVh7yL3gROyzCLLc27gXUFLTA9HPx8FIR2C4fEnXFOHwS8t6WPvzdDhMDbR6gp-VC9rtab5ZNLwcy_8PXqzCB_GOGuMkbRdYeei8noDsF0xvVz8d2OV7kQQVHw9v1Efz5EokH14H8JJxOd5uiSRcWNkur_F2gqMKxXvY6JhfNvUuzYw02wGq-bf0ZJFwAE_b036S-fTm4qFV40aNFKMQRfP-xFs5S5QKW880D7GW1dHqSQ=w1589-h1192-no)
牛被刺死、洗去血腥、重新开始 - 每场斗牛表演要杀死四头牛
受不了这样的血腥场面,我们起身到Arena内部转悠。
尼姆Arena是世界著名的古竞技场,133米长、101米宽、34排座位、4层看台、可容纳两万四千观众,是世界第七大古竞技场,特别是保存之完好可以与罗马斗兽场Colosseo 比美。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QATx_WX8NmW4x1f0F90dqr8epiN0HZn2eIYMgWgGjv2EzkpYrsaSnRN7XMfnBP2wSsDewDllfTWmKS_psRMHTEUCEUwGpCs49LZqT29yXUWKnHQfZUcC_v1haz6yitP6Ymv4kVp5v7ERh5XwpMsa3RjHdZ1BdGBSi3I7ce_dXuSq6sKqwiGFNz5Mj-Ot6jne1SgAuC008tuGRvfQsfPk9RnqjW5Swm-v9R1JCVJtcJksJsvbW9ixOX_tXj0suRqFo6AlCXXWHArSxV5D-9eLgtF2gpuBLpDZ2ocMlEMdyPIDEbvGxE6k2VvCd0MvB7P_39xowfPGTWy5ThsX47CP5V5vIUhIccGc0tx7Q03UD0l2OoCyhzHObzowu7idVnDvaBfdM4xanqXpVmyDzZ9lR6-3wzY-0uFg6kQ2fGltJa3s9zvPR6NTbjm1dkZPMaCYvJyo-yg7Vz78WXMOQu4CiMqtzfeUoyU12xVQg9GhUOH62qAkYPIlfxTKHgVyXTTcI5IWqBIv8exd0LzI6yLGDPDm7Mkc-kAuwUC3fRUDUSk4AZFTPm7w5yzJO9ZIE_pqkKf2QYoZC7rhzKqo5FC5XNuz4huNLisUVpJWyNXh0cMkVEuDkrAUP728UNlIgmMZwBrAKk4e6g2dMWmdtNmOeNBc7QLUTG9Sow=w1589-h1143-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GDHoEKxzBwUnTVuNeHqG9MlgB3_ke3h4AUZW98iFTqNQmVXtl-xsWIaytmlBWO4q5zDB4H_A6B0Z2lvrk7XtJmU51WlhA1wum0UOvi0k3keDUveoO60Umu9k7fTjQTUFGFVDukrkdaEMBnbf_xhk1Q3_tekB9G1JSpZsghQCrNauqdGCUxR-XY5k1ifOcjF1-DirizcSU-t_j5IVhLMMaqtAAXOm9_GMM6v66TOOKE7eyEY27hiDxSLki55Fi0cFJlYnXZbmN-iiUuKm8Itx-EbQdigzgYir7c2nGcmlhUDzrZR33nPuPu59uTdSgXKmD5ptEPDauDcqlV7Wt1iKr5JluaXfRqeW8MPXgMD-qrM71TD6sh45G4RcllYw13S0_V1_GBdi1hnQ9LFfSIC1_jPob9YD_bb5_KD_JVwPghx90fqm0o0wYYNIJdLHWg3zr4qlXWnpQRq7nXd2f9Yb54ztBJBQSh6pAPWtyVApAU4d2uSpKxjB-8Z_5OzQwpvO7piQMgVXUkQWVrecDQpk-tKsP0x1YfiUePqbEzECYZE5PTgg6yjolf93HMkZiDXn7NlMMN1KgXcv6d-Gj7bJXZbO_bN2xauJri-jcnL3PLP2-ZSbtJ9iZv6mDdKGso84JDqSDYf189yl9nMe4ZLsVv1MWVNHw4vgzg=w1589-h1192-no)
尼姆:竞技场内部
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vy7CPOBiHdfB0CUqjrbLnLPvlzjeB5lTia55okY1oe6K-FwMbvhT_Ar5l94qi5xcduvKt9PQrVMWcO4l-yvyCm7oYDz9zHWddsyi0ijMvo5_wBlSksPNHI2gRNiAgBIVzfoIMhjZy_lZT1uHGH2MToXft1a5Nfjro1RULRLJoePG1XSf12QltLs1UoBdlV4Oh-xTdZCZufEHgdVp8h-csB77hCzEbeHEjHkpMEOnZVKN_iF11sAJSdwqOeHFCnxB3YXES5g8ZbA4xBKrivKzL9y7YDt3xV4_pmNbl_4ijwzXR6cIT6NyKHiADolN3KL4C-UtHExx7f--lVf1vMOh8weInw1Ur43tsFUNY-FWDKP4fDU77XJOaSI7DvM4YPacP-C-Sp5tmjE0S0NQGnGX-NT7i_B9Z_mK2SOCQvVmZ8k5lNQnBmT6eYdvQYfTvVFj2IIpTJK8RMrs0316M5Kv-1Lq2cI82zNWY92RbWtM33lMYBfHq4gjxWJ4EGak7kcZJKVhsBQ-h-6ZS2ZD4Ib_rej6n41kIALkKXto6En7n8eHoxM_mPZi03dKleS8_mz6sXQ47lerYELv3gS3tHefFScVKi5j8V65m_C4hNJuTgoN1pPZLlJ-9rYp169UFTOqc4RcGZ4WxyZBeiJ706tk-i5wAX-tSYoh9g=w1492-h1073-no)
尼姆的世遗梦(早应该进入世遗,估计因为保护不到位还在申请名单中 )
罗马人在世界建了两百多个竞技场,现在有五个还在使用,其中两个在相距几十公里的普罗旺斯:尼姆及阿尔勒,另外三个在克罗地亚的普拉Pula 和意大利的维罗纳Verona以及名闻遐迩的罗马大斗兽场。
阿尔勒竞技场建在罗纳河东南的Hauture 山坡上,比尼姆竞技场还略大一点,但是因为靠山的一半“陷”在山窝里,看起来不及尼姆竞技场高大上。罗马帝国消亡以后,两个竞技场均被废弃,都曾用作为临时民居,直到十九世纪才开始复原。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KOjYyFH3SBEj1poxLazyQVzmNN99BRyCnphh_-AKNYCKvZ8pooPfOXGVER6nfI8qxg2EbVs5muRh55E8LG5aSBknaml1wMafVBZd2TwvKtFjUDS5NrtT5sK3_tO_z4P4mWpmJIsYw1mpdA5KdF7-CRD_oTxKVINY5fLuhCTJ5e_GTAyHDQx9D2JzdkiKZ0gCIhwod-7b0GH1HF_ha1EWnukHcLGDxLFeWIrteiHTE1oJv0EZ9injEBS48sRI4Ov0oZRPuCvG37OO5s5r3CRV5Kh9CMcQPNNtlaZrdZNlva2mGQFKOPALDqNImrYfuX7AEBELwYq8ioKUu6DIGt3d0Lw3HgebP1SIJ7QbYIwN_RZm91J0w8Lk0N_ff9dhA-SCfQ2LGhz-qOzrg7ET94xcw2xZf7MO0-zOh6ZRw_DwZLpEncxhochd9YOf1iFSvYwYqnenYJ0b7SGOM1muKrWOv13obKcZgDxVdwLMpxx5BiS8p3UDX0deisMVL-3mxQhrCWD9f8u5omKP51CeVEUGVs1nytOUryDl4wwPdwSIvPOOL_m1aEYhL_0LMF4VqQP72nqe0V3THf686af_4sJ59y6TkHx-pFz9I2xVb4agYbn02D28E388uuZa9Sd4qaTzboq9KDlJqfQ6rtAilO5pWdIy9nrl21LPXA=w1075-h750-no)
尼姆和阿尔勒竞技场的过去和现在 - 上:尼姆,下:阿尔勒
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vZB2kHcyLg6rZ3hHRMSOjBF5KQHZftK6xKtZ9sWmwrQWse3Rlwv40o1fLz76VrqfRvdaLvkeqDG0lyQTyB40Zbcs6Qo5YOleeEHfzFzrzhnK8qUpkqHw_Kde9GKczKOLZ1JT3MWQIKvMu9F0c4m8wKz8OBeNZT7BDvVuNnLq749_Wpic17Qohmm17WTGeyLHAh-q7iWYnXwfcLkLtFm5_kMk4JBO__PAQs3bAjR2MhhUpTUZGVZNVcV8rlPjkwQM4ZF3zqkaHyQMOWhTKLtOAnk48MdeapqmSKrO61WRR2aKNO3km-21ptx5l9-z5bAlkxu6DiwYmlSMW3f_-4wBE5qMNayloFMSvWqvqPABFb3I3RaGaulMVQK0rjAYTapbZZC2LGSd5rS4-eNoR8LldLODSckBHqysx2PdeYTUTh4JEHbk3kGTWt81fcibZEcXX-Z5qMCb7_q6jVkfTmZ9a41OR7lZQvs8u2e6sahplkQEyNjTsRl-8H7z4SUVC5qOhv-x7bTO-ENQJeAoReOT5HqXbXb2dvTLQWKnXmbf-hKbtsws0G5WiEYyG15cw47KG9Fu7yNIbTLVA5MkOZ1r2mzxBCtyKGv1bCGgosqn2zFYYmzjxD8xviHhCxelykJ8gbsiCpIxDtZ8flndGVj92hchPkbKKtz7jQ=w1492-h1119-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XLlHcP72KOY3kfJr9THGl1YuYTFWeO5e6yFdnjkmtWj22fU9KKHID49A3NLSi74hDg608nZDwXozXg-1bNfr5rmtK8hOqj-1wovqWIn7TE2NlAR2wvqzXcAmIa8H0TnBY6xEqYqqhBTPoy6ct2fCo8VVxuelwQE5mVzu9CfzUUWb9iWo89HtzDMBoVgmJPoTRSVHnp1hx3g3BKyjUYJYj_NYlsarBXTApFMDW7VLhHXUaXv7GtJfEIW1vszb2VAM10UB4glVLhL48KivxCFd95vbcuDFMoRev38CdYk0pWpa-16a2Uj2ahpLlj8Vj0NMOhd6gNcmREU55QXj1u3fKzWiGdioCXs61UO_Bg2jRSePLjz379_Nh2eu8g_bHh6C1viJ4AF1hm4-g5hddmTpASSWmmaNpkH4i00q9VtWK5tt8el-TMWGv0EMGnTIDtOdFbxPJ7EO52WHRhJZJUNwjQcs8dk3jSHwNPRL1FMfnQGuA9sCDWESyod1c5yr6DXtF08oLhQ_gPmOmUO6kF8N79GpVDqrkJxxrOSHEqVHPKOSanyHBleqEB4VXzvpopHb8iX3N-7zPq8z_kwlig1LuIBX4jLcI0C5XJ2oDbzoRXRlNo_Ldb0h64LEV90Q_HssglIR5ffBKpJA8iyaOJElZpXZG8DBjVNPZA=w1492-h887-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ENnP9IWdBMKpSUUYu3_t9oSoujVZypbE73TkqpEO8FR0EAwNe0uea3uIrfH7LOTHOntqmHa-xNLz4mhYUPkb8aIURquvBZxelgZCVGC76FKh0gw9N7_FgGX1e0psHBM17OOkSC89K6YA59f4KDpgdCoO18K2WKojPq8zIaVF-IFF4MQZwXcyLFAFgQijX6uV7P-BuSmLQQq4Zt-sUS9GjKeyTEZR_F0GC6dgBA26VJwMq_QCXQWJ2RsJoyT_yvfMcIIpTTOuxQc-FW2iUqEqK0duqjLoi9HHWY_khamLDhTpVVpx1OsEPEZADRuI8uMjuFuuHHIcIP3M0Ib-sNeAEr9u-ngYNOaS1nCZFtcPJ1LuF9CgE-E9qHu1B1Vp3UM31iqcXwouVw0cddVyz1lz1iCOSU_rtiaHyekUYt4BPFzBxRzn2aoelIJyXt7guu5xFZ3N0882X-Y5LlPLAfzevEOy4RVs79D2Orfp5W-ZoR1TVIS4_l5j-G7EsfvPbmTJKWE1PqkjBOun1CXyPP6046QJwU2_zxuQji59jjMsN2fREW1NxmtRbvYQOt8y-2OF0Fyf83ThhHCSLMJY9UgEdpLkdl1tkIiFxKJUOx6Q2vcniVMUDwNXOnu5MnvFky2ji_UHutuNqqSz1Wb5vjUCeaeKoFik9wKyRQ=w1492-h1026-no)
阿尔勒:竞技场
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DhyBQ4r1tt8Bk17vfq60hbWWfEZMCo1_rr9zVjp02TEOzVu6zAQ53IzikRjhrynNWdFFNa7p4UY6IvXvcZfMqG51NCsCTELkVF_z7CzwwA1Tp0vClvTnIV8Yjp3O9LM9WAEHx3ZdeObM6B7VTvaEY8UsCNPl9itY_syn9pzOcftKEdaN7XHziSLk1zGoAix5_kkcTX67q_U6-bdpxRDvs9C8ibnlK8LjIEWYTjLGfwMbG4nV4AcXDAXKzeKWIyWCyhDIEt0-p9_udhZ5tYZphXB28siAbZLfUdjySeZL5gOrixqifPfyYQgt3k9QGXGZ5cObun_l2ISpRpFXG1ChAalz6VpOHgNDEf1UXRewpLUphF0U9OUIrTatMm6oDWlZWtQSH2jfGhkTOz85ifjri7YDWK1XytuBdLfTkNJPq7qcdp_-sLWM7sl-KrsxeUmGkWt0rmmNP6qOzHnoVAju9ipZBGAfUDcf8DX05Su7U0gQCC-HDWTvc4_6y3pkBslnt_P07mM6hTRDRAoCbWjPVEGVdqLFZ_fA0gWdEwJuY4qF-SDju1Vyv-u2wa2aOVOCpyMJkAW5unBbNO6RG5P9Q9oJqsSnbTAAB7CCTetyw-nEFXD7cQq8YxhlmGwGSL1s-8gv7hgYUAAaZCp2q7KOovMNgak9QgDWkw=w1063-h1204-no)
阿尔勒的罗马遗迹
罗马人不仅能征善战,论起声色犬马灯红酒绿纸醉金迷也是一等一的高手。殖民之处,他们不仅修桥筑路,修建广场Forum和议政厅,还建浴场bath、格斗竞技场 Amphitheatre(Arena) 、体育竞技场campus、赛马场Hippodrome、剧场Theater和神殿Temples ,罗马的万神殿就是罗马工程师最伟大的杰作之一。
始建于纪元前后的尼姆方殿Maison Carree虽然不及万神殿恢弘,但是祂的30根科林斯立柱保存完好、连万神殿也自叹弗如。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YM_NqjU5Sa4Vs6mGGbY4GTenEX29B0KitIED5Tk8suNfAbIYOGHpWP8eNY7TkCK3MWPANVoVHHRZzFn4F6TxGlUYxxwal9Wx3dmwCDdcDlXi345-Bsw8SOQyi3ux0OfHvo3lyezkXzndvNILHmeAxCV7hxbRFhFo9fG6oKTypheb88IQ-u6AnxriUraEFlA1IhLFrLudXrAu7lJDjl3EeNLlMnhs5yfPpcXki7Ff0Q6VFnPmH98qaxXiV6VvBWeSLdPxQgXbZECjtE1aQIftDP64-tzUFCepLk1Aoc4jVk01vqljkzx_JAv6wreb1OI9WT5Yf51w3gxxfKwdztGaKKckOMmakA9P5JHIMRsmD4SXlYUGagYYEgr9hm3a1MjjisaEwc8LT_f9hNB3NysYE-fOja8GEB9SbKwtVjadMEYwm8mcdXphyoP7zQHbyU5eBqBR-5R4MGqUYgdDZZbxu-WqVaOfBd9zhu-oRQDsBfkwDzL12lPZ07EzT4_H1aeVbW13wdJsGLLkQ4P6hgMMGK66FimU1xvtnY3VYtUBVYmETK14sSJytX_Q3VLvZVNetttbibfOJ-24VO4XTjLwiISE2U_upaydc5aOZUY41ke-R1SRgxDtx-TOb74drz7zaZaefqt7-f58-lni7APfW-Z3dbH7rE91uw=w1492-h1119-no)
尼姆:方殿
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j7IA2rfkAahfM_5eSmF4pNJAyxiWLsFgP8hhrmFExzOp0DAWx2cJWakBE3emrjdVBlwLTTeiUCk-j-zuMMeJgHUEVuLVcHiUcfpfUy02mtj9vJlTlIM4j4tKkIqofiParNAfe4zcyiI0tHappYWjqhRa__K4IJGEJIyBiEh6Yjjd9DbfVgIysSblKTZQiv5KxGdBMjpsGZntZjPGUZC3yCkQPn6wVDNM9Oo_CeNvykrSk8Da-zR2lJ-3GFNft664Ia1ucP5r3UckIBDwjO1dDcTYN0yuH8p2DQpZkv4AeUhj4QwgAug-Rw4_V03xh2CRU3Km2NidUs-bbwLVDhcA0uaYsaVeN0aNbHue8o2bvommu_3Lypj4WpnIkcaLhn1WcjQ9BdxRHIfS7GByXADc2iRNWP8md2ztaPeqFdGf4ppXXvxAavvkqHFEcNktiHY5me4TcYAxvVx-8k5iy5kbbeGmBJZz5Tqajyb3s9f3d0alc5vkBEVaZesatEp8jxyrFGPe4Vqgb-kCEd5OgY9YLPNfyldBPBM9-5id5AC9eXGJEeyt6I0ouB3Z6dz2PrGfyrdvXqcDL4LVS1qEaCxG6nSaQTzkzQW1sQlkUAu55ecsU5IgA-Tld-NXxFkoyvfSUEsXCD36Yrq3wKKsJgnYwN_L7yVeHR5ubQ=w1492-h1119-no)
尼姆方殿:前廊的天花板及立柱的蛋壳-飞镖Egg&dart装饰
方殿之所以保存完好是因为祂一直在被使用,先是作为神殿、罗马帝国消亡后成了市政厅、中世纪时还被作为教堂,直到十九世纪早期被法王列为文化遗产而加以保护至今。
话说普罗旺斯中部的Cavalier山下有一个村庄,那里住着一个Voltinia部落,他们是北方凯尔特人的分支;山脚下有一股泉水,那是他们膜拜的水神Nemausus的居所,村庄也因此命名为Nemausus。
在罗马帝国的庇荫下,他们安详地生活着。
公元前55年的一个夏初,青年Adgennix和妻子裸足坐在泉水边。暖风微袭,阳光打在刚刚怀孕的妻子的脸上,红扑扑的;青年醉了。
宁静被马蹄声踏碎,是信使!
村庄收到一封急件、罗马执政官恺撒亲笔所书,信中请求村庄和罗马军队一起攻打北高卢。在激烈辩论后,村庄决定答应恺撒,并派出勇猛的Adgennix领衔部落武装。
“为我们的孩子起个名吧!”,妻子说。
“就叫Caius Adgennius Regulus”,之后青年吻别妻子,上马奔赴疆场。
这一去就是多年:儿子出生了,长成少年了,父亲Adgennix还在征战:先是跟随恺撒攻打北高卢、平叛马赛,其后又协助屋大维击败安东尼。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jJz7HohVdgFwI7Kb2HJNBbBnypMG_Ut8SvjQ5treT0WNKByFGfw8eqYo2GCBDY-N2zbXnYgqMiV7X3e9NMVlRoB7735Y40C3Hts51avQejqLvLn4S9VQdJrRVhcNAvSmt70LOaLvcvPDjPZXwZcngFaxWUgc2EKBtivOrsRlilagYU2Qozo79wKz1Nku8EcWAhqMRuVewkoaqF3kMqqNLI1UEpLx8B_1V241Df-hYHTJTZuJtmzhScxIlKltRdj8rebQJUp3nP6QI07QcBayfmySfKZ6sz_Kp4uHgovHghDuSXI3i5Fb5MBRM_AZrzHnbRBpzIfvQVZto_DEVOdTrgNTqMSvii0LwG4oThlWRs8XRAFFJV74M1g5zI8u6N814VZXkthmT-8vOEhpMDAGDowIYSrTlaC8mwIewwrp0mAVV_Ink3z9qF2F6j8F-YokZ4fVkf3BRtjJeq_EPILMVya6Yea3nbtL4v3GSHunNUO7UJX9tXX97zEeik0CCI1hf-I-AGqBbzm1CViTlDpeTEjwXmuk-KBJu5tpEmSRW6dPT2tV9hp136zFY3UdCVvqGGUFKzxTkseDZJShXbNmiK-gNPyrttgQ8czWuiV90BgMKcxzhZkkLXGEuvWFMPd0jUG41Zslat0t-2dny8PPQuxrk5XNWOBxUQ=w1280-h720-no)
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![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k73ZhKcX7yIcS1Z3htC8Uzhb4UdHmF4JB26oZnW89uf8mmzH0WpiNUPnHxLePxJIc8TdRtMIEOIMZA6Do8Gp5qW4LyenJqAOa-ktdWGddVHB-WZ1wMus6EXHW1r1eNSAGFidillVHBXbxMDZhvGDUjau6-zCqEo8kn-x1pRJWSos2pJwRrGMJxyqLGuCg2kEfuBM_6rd_QvhgEYjHt2PSaLmFuUC9RJmdc08S45q9zrimq6y5oYP9tMokIn8vVF7DWNGsB3kr83162cPt7hD-oNY4oTix5QexjELnnemiz8XvlBdvVtiVevyrL18kVEaYLRwI-wykwHSndUH0MfGKokX-1ja9fmJSFPlqgmTST-bdHuzh9uZ1NKh-z_auB0qil7pS_a4fUyufXFJrFnn1xrePOxp082BKc7tBOLb1nyU4eEBSEbqtrqFh1UU0MmmQLv4v7KF3HT-4D3O2lXfTlKRIBQRGz6EwfwAUdCJdRApJJ2BTXSMZq2-axIKRLI4RqMI-FTq-SysvGcWogCfX06G7YbhU2ypXsnYlJVRw-Iq-RAyagdhLG0EfJPqkQndRk_IsHmqw-lOVtJ2b-lCCPPEwd1V8CF_MOTkX_vKH7LnZ0Bkt6C5JYi5E8SloFmcUuuoYRNrVxJ8b4Rl67bvdvph_yNobuqQ7A=w390-h539-no)
屋大维特许的“COL NEM”为尼姆的市标 |
父亲回家时,已经是两鬓斑白;而孩子已经长得父亲离家时一般高大英俊了。
父亲为村庄带回了荣耀和财富。屋大维特许这里为罗马行省,Nemausus为行省首都,Nemausus人和罗马人享受同样的特权。
父亲决定让儿子做新Nemausus的设计师。
聪颖的Adgennius没有辜负父母和市民的希望。除了修路、给排水系统和城墙,他还设计了市民广场、议事大厅(即方殿Maison Carree)以及竞技场。
Adgennix一家为家乡做出了巨大的牺牲和贡献,在Nemausus备受尊崇,所到之处市民欢呼雀跃。
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![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1MrgfYqrWK4tCxfHZxZkpbJJWJioS3pAFR0fnMoFn4ZZlz1raP74OhhzMnLj_XRJWR9GkHG6SrwJmZoGAC0E_oWXEOXZIbu-gdupOO3dqc_C4p3MQFg4V1dbd-2u7t7yrYKSulpxYEbfrtH5rEeweEftMSqwzN_QmNoFfmqESBuiRE-dK503wN-zsBdFMXMaQTWetSfyApZuaFkY8AOduYryuw03KE0dmgjutUC6_sZs9bSA2UfdNSPmQUSaPylYcqZaICmwXsuxiOTGTeFRdWk6YdC59R0HW74rEK6xb1fG1VsZ85oxXeBymo-VR2d44TgeLfiRzqUZemjN6lLMHlsickwMgThreGj1rPUK7kZlXDTf1dDpiQSr9K1zCl4VJAvLFfKfAtXVOIGhvg0DOSV-DnSTBgzTxYYk2aTuI_AkkQtPbqRClFQB3Zvs9rA7CV0_tc77r07eQ9J-CVQP0X7655hLPbHEASjIDHT78Qrb_OmN6m4mUifU4YaK0VSTgzw2cLRx_4RNg-8MC6HW3YpK18QJS4URrmNkH22fKEvLDMMI_bZePCTK_Q5dqJDxhN3f-8NAr5MrvWJeyUT1knzAZN9Pbc-jXiJDkG-ry1Ch1DIp6RRDSxxkmro90jDKbDP8RvMZKd1F3MlFsVCxHz-Jdv1bMRyNHg=w1492-h749-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I4SJSlZJZyhYKPMTMIDIyycCe-iqmT-EPGpIOjuoJaeNS6pzaxoIV7i95xue-DepMqJWBaKr_bljBzzDhDR7ZrXLX1ZShO_6BkEBH-KCNCnMqDEzLoXHLNSZqqJOsEctIhqIsfBifL64iS_YeTiHiFcLlYu5IFi02fdVTVIb68jcbxl1h9NNni5ldFsR6TfosXBYztE5IdOVhoQGZTnEiCeuVzdy01smCSKHLxG-3i5YvgNgF7zQbTfoIUyb3Y1Rs-4HXeb1V90OutrVh3k5twrWXDiEsyJAbii943D6xQiiT6n6vUvOvSlhvYcRkO-CpBI4_UXi6Zcq4wt2NAboETJ62CozWpLi8CayMac51xS7-1wdLK6GhqwBnw1pzubRNQeiQ-Q3ZdG_BtYkyNUmWPnCB_oForKg-7bRq0dpB57NVh0Bl4tN2j8SnIudKPzgWohlfBQnwYw0v0UxgYTqONbj6_GuRWTn5HPkZNInN5WJFB7BfCgAivKngWGwwPbv3z4rTKDGKf5P8u7LbZUgSLlwL_if-A9SQrH42UFxqNM-M_EttmuxdTg6gifJe5o6tBkzsyyqETt7_ww7TELAOuVeR2tbeKdJfkbEFifUxcvnbfWKyitJ4ZxfUcvkAJUzRdzmxUp9FKyomKjbuKRi5N0z3oqYHN3TSg=w1492-h935-no)
Adgennix一家看竞技表演
……
两千年之后,我们坐在方殿里看小电影《尼姆的诞生 'Nemausus, the birth of Nîmes'》,看Nemausus(即Nîmes尼姆)的故事、Adgennix一家的传奇和方殿的今昔。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IJSt6FEtP98duFCkpwo0v_ybMPUHhklQzS_nBcLfcS2ng4aHtmhkOhgqbQzLAGutwFfrY_4AflyibIrXJmlM8TSR4deex68ccro4hfy50BnDQTM7901hJ1lCJYObjrdaESEr379sSnKFg67xsN8ZvapU2Mho-yc9Y6omc0MnrdZrVYyHaESY-fewdKKcp2FdOIasQ852awmbXxN_V-OoTytB6x8gr6yIh55xnUmXPQFwRpyGvweic-UYOUCZhU95_coL11UL1FRVAU9RxU2VEBXDx7IahPovi4y0RPPPj7L6LHW82jHuXD8CJujC-4D1WstMHu6334h_PHkDUbsnSlhLkMZNpNsBjupCGuTlwg8Z-IjqEgXkK0stcCkp7RKuVmsXdhclsCMklXlTwbf35aJDAii7YJ53v7JmrWLf_MACB8Pzxg3uD2VI7EfYnZEChorhh5yzm_HCaqcqlZpKizmSCOX5qyXmB5WXJHJ3e1qRHzD1GsfKq270MVEYM91ThKu0XkgDwj_ltCO_T1lUxu1Yp8a88tHYu16jihT5IQzBVuEskxF1NbaZooRlELoP7XjzozBvd3dMHwVwAJoimPpPdRjN7TECpbSEgEPR-QoVrMpCiSuH1AORp6ncmoxwT_U9T3o0VNXFncEJeregDYSdWK9o1inq-A=w934-h1204-no)
小电影《尼姆的诞生》
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FzbtzHKy-G_WbqlsRScYVnxa_O5P4ficRhNMia8BsQXaqZOFUjiw8QYryNArNEaOiDX2yQBg-pvcZDm-q4EDpaOIKjDzM1WboFQsKRFto_anuWoudxIBAoGnoVhNWK-ovm6F2w7M0VL3C5XevbWtwZ4FbsX5sG8wuGl7ZOPC3GBXIF03uFAMn2VgC5KMViwgqs4tgAP7TsjG_4XSuSduMWISK3Xxp-C5HQKsyFZL3THk4CsVgz6IOrgCUdfYGpfuTvTk0ADJZg72YqsqfQtl3za3thVVWyc7HxudS7wlloaBax9sr-vT9DGUlwcQIoNQc2RyJjZ1_TFtRrnscGT9boGW643dAhLiSFoYQzKVMKnueUHKzgqXVJZ8CYb3flbrS_kUW0ziWUnte1F9BMfgh21eER_dcm-uamd4cW2QWNYyTwEAmtuh9QP18JHC76Vbd8vF3RxrSz6H0qI6naG3a7KGZhr_z_7mtL152ZjgbdyiNTs1S8RXRez3wpRxtUVEq7aKPqNVw8DrWFvyEjRYMJF_6dBxnLCJKCdhh7n9HGCc7vdk3ioNjLVsU-KFr57936B8gs_zZSt0EDyhnqZzihUIm18cLcFZFUyzDwHlRFhZGftz0A2r0_oXsSdbUCCfQLFlwgadIWAaLI7x-8fE_u2K_vadLzKteg=w1492-h900-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nLr08zh5XzNYeKODeAjgXIsqDhubfEcKLqX9tRfkogZm_lHsz7a5dk808q2xV7reZ97-ck3iBWPUWtCcP1Q--Ud3HTU9EWreH2EuKpV9ddQ9MlyEyz35xnIb_9jcZCHJCpTtRnwHGQs_EJ0-YoaTFEEbJt-5MzMaFAMyeP0o5TkRvkThxH4XZIzK_lWX0RtHmSJ_nSGWoIn9PBSR54Mb7ygzlk4bqvaMJodp8u26f0CdibMoR8L-Df0uacKE5if3Q3leEtSPYKvNoWKBXUxw54zVyDx81IveA2jVGI5rNvKmyGbJoGu5sUm2hM3I9JNOzsTcavVWiq-UdzaRwuzFVKU_QLz4GfECY8oL5AzjOFXrbFNhDUcfX31OFx7VVmbMb2c76q_DTrNiSkCEDYPRsmJMNa6sJ97mpFrcOuy9_y7PHbvLvNYKgqysulajL4vj1UPnmh9g0Yfyuf1DH4IyV_0Jv8SzvvA08CMZchaF8nSYDPCcQlcF3Z8QtFTUbFMQPYtixprMVNlXDl-4dgNXKNcBSuxWIj5QM0b-j1R1PJ2Jdvj1WhLVLcYyiWtdoy7QBl5YMTT0BGkWD_G2wUvraRBocJIGRNWjfL92d1-mr_AgINCF8aoSf8szjHfMMIEzjIgGNuND02hlDcFYIVNO6hXn6yOJA6j_pg=w1492-h1119-no)
方殿的今昔
尼姆的另一座神庙,黛安娜神庙Temple of Diana,崇拜天神色彩更浓厚。不幸的是,在十六世纪的法国宗教战争中,祂曾是路德派的避难所,因而被天主教拆毁。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GkRi1K9vtJq9ikOj4k8P5yjyrkYpTr_CUZrTqXrqByksucuCvg6PdaJPaXyBzFmuWKvC3KJz6UZgFmgmuMU1tMIr38Yyhm5YRgGv3Ts1m9gYvKwKVkYvB7v2-qkjafBDXfF7liN3JeFa85pSgIuci9VzjZG6tT1Tz7kIx0i2S-5L0rCBcwsjj1c9Yx9BbowX_Lp_f5bfdgMpXDVxcHTNeTGtjJWWs5jaCqw9ZmPj9dTkKalCZhYgi9p7G6Qhpe_0PjohH6MuY6YQptWKeYUHODcgfM84TIPkveMpgQRKnfY3bFraKhosfYCKX53clF-emtnIho_ponZntia4vBcJ01TPNGxjnafrSDkdGRdDvts_KXVgDuSRejGMLgnWDErWHCp6mybHdgjOAa9Q9iFV0vuGkIY7XSkbcG3e_JFtHNhH5kWl7TsX1QkC6UMq88Rvv41JfPogPZ1l9gEnK14IHcJ3GXiSZivDhgvlH4GjFtoEd05oDxFUimXnHz39Mqtqy016R1Wu1Z_YbTepTApR-otVbGKQKPjMhmlTJvQlcCcG8DOMalZNfsEB1pdWGEzQcbaU7HHoCSaw_8LiLAHp4mxpbpvOsVx59RLIgpFkSWY2rgw0SSGRlj3BWVWAeE9SYvvyUdoZNNCUMonAZHbDjhv714PgfrRjBg=w1492-h1091-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dBdnS7uIoO3AhywWVL5uLK0kiMMWLLhmt1lgTDqbB2KUmpOIRgRZdtWh_TKHC4DKxtBN3TqGi5jhi5U1Aa3vjPbrgIewmNEBIiON1DrwtS_vnVcfb6drLaDm3MNtm_6UUyfbosG-8uzeOaEdgZ2e9XqePnPxsQH3GpnCX83BztSMV1RXCiTDR7jHTpEiNpz9mDfkt3poANJJ3GDS4D-9kDCC_yA3GMNCTM3lbBxczsXOvtctgObbr3AVtpcThjxqrC7o9riFCnwX65io7Bso-anwMKgzSgHW8av21L2_VHDhxK4X-KFIfTfO1RYhS4QusPTRalq7Z0vO1bbOrBFMSL9bmNfF_F8QmXr0zDSuCgB1Xg1k7lbOQA1isfddj3k3sys-32IdyXLMApBpFOdfLZmUGiE7fZKLGl6QeTddtt18KpYCcFdRDvDSXtmWwu88Ywbznmw9emZoQWhA6TaDpIpZKz9ftjYC7DtKA4s9WiC5cXNZmGVVcVcKpK4c0V1f8DbYJBtUdL4pUaajRWnCbFRIkXCWIkvMvzqa7iJ2nBZcYEDdL1orTkf3wX6YQH9ZjzQtJbSeaaHZXWc8uupM6K2bpZM6I24LsdMrvMZjLrm2qYZ0aChng2BbATYQF8DS3GDrzASbE0kbEI417mu9oawr9q78lL3wJg=w1492-h1119-no)
尼姆:建于一世纪的尼姆黛安娜神庙(遗迹)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FLZM9ZS5wWWSh8c_HoRb4fdfruRkrzyGKUcT7x0p_p4P01uSviNNL8Ovx6_P7d9Gd4ocJXPnP0u5Wi8NrmcISIW5ZOMzRJoxYSel3swSQixqDF27x1Ie6JB-MfdWOYToPgMEC-QJOo0NffD99TYppZuHrVeKWINayYk2mYiDuiFBF6LLE0QDNT_qqNeV3xS-ZIwi9UqsBuTeggCn8vHfq39ZMWZ9etCI9JJrEgMJySYq6jqCJFEZD1HGUeOEytNWnYPWZhGT9cmA2A8wKCDeI55FCJqCVGDbxXb32CnCy8wkrvkBmpdpznicBVuI7_OUNNnpVOvEchjtedcFuI9uofcVOyTBLZ_cgAhnduEcgyxx_rWW60aed0A5YYI_5TwsJR4eLKk5gvPjeKr2zbiZHJooxrax8kWHLYVxXld0P304pUVNU8GP39hRCxfWqrNc1P9mCGw-6MmwkvlhBIb68a3FQOwVroE0gRu-IMvbLVlyrx6yUfnx_f0phQLafrvp7fQYOs59VKqrfBm5sfWLR_Dky3KmMmDa2RraftcfAHUny_hoZ0TBt3NmoHgd866ryGhGEwQ7TygRFYf0N5RK-ZBT0wXVFzktT1JPgUBCaUPfbcVswfxu8qMxr6bhCs5Qsw4YYl3Fi98kQPmeXthlAcYsDMqKRM0c9A=w1118-h1034-no)
古罗马军团盛筵狂欢之旅
【注一】尼姆成为普罗旺斯行省的首都之后修建了六公里的城墙、十四座城门,法兰西城门Porte de France是现存的两座城门之一。
【注二】尼姆狂欢节 Feria de Nîmes 始于1942年,是法国南部少数几个举行西班牙斗牛的狂欢节。最初只有五月举行,从1978年开始,每年九月的丰收节Harvest Fair也成为Feria de Nîmes的一部分。
【注三】关于牛奔,海明威的《太阳照常升起》专门描述了西班牙潘普洛纳Pamplona的奔牛节,潘普洛纳也因此声名大噪。
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