自1922年2月2号James Joyce的Ulysses在巴黎的一家小书店正式开卖到今天,已经过去整整100年。对于Ulysses,评论界的原话是,这本书,为现代文学史写下了新的一章,把爱尔兰整体文学水平带到一个新的高度,每个人都知道,Ulysses是20世纪最伟大的小说……Joyce是一个革命家,他给世界带来的前所未有的文学革命……
Ulysses的最后一行,是“Trieste-Zuerich-Paris,1914-1921”。
当年,为了躲避一战的炮火,Joyce带全家从一个城市辗转到另一个城市,and he created a beautiful book in Europe bent on self-destruction。有个话剧叫Travesties,以1917年的Zuerich为背景,描述了James Joyce写Ulysses,Tristan Tzara为首的达达主义(Dada),还有Lenien和他领导的俄罗斯革命的各种场面——当时,三个人都生活在Zuerich。
那个导演,叫Tom Stoppard,1997年被英女王封爵,所以后人提到他,会说,Sir Tom Stoppard。
Tom Stoppard在剧中有个著名的笑话,
What did you do in the Great War, Mr. Joyce?
I wrote Ulysses. What did you do?
......
Trieste,Zuerich,Paris三个城市里,我最喜欢的是Trieste,尽管另外两个齐列世界名城此生必游清单的头条——不过那跟我有什么关系呢。
我对Trieste印象好,不是没原因的。
带孩子们在意大利度假,住Trieste附近的度假村——对几个小家伙来说,度假的意思是只要有的吃,100之内米有阳光沙滩。别的要求?没有。
意大利的海滩,不同地区必定有不同惊喜。比如Jesolo的特点是,贝壳多如夏夜繁星。
![](https://i0.wp.com/inastil.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/inastil-%C3%9C50Blogger-Italien-Venedig-Jesolo-Kurzurlaub-Venedigtrip-Fr%C3%BChling-am-Meer_-17.jpg?resize=1080%2C864&ssl=1)
那里发生的故事呢,是我们三儿毫不客气给我搞了一次小事故。她问我拿小筐,说找姐姐捡贝壳。我把东西给她——因为能看到几个小家伙蹲在那里玩,就没跟过去。
结果结果,我再一扭头,不见了!
当时就觉得,汗刷从后背冒出来。叮嘱俩大的在沙滩椅等哪都不许去,硬撑着镇静地跟她爸爸分头找海警,还打了120——海警倒是一点不慌:放心吧,我们给你找回来(现在回想,估计天天见多了)。过了俩钟头不知道有没有,小家伙跟在海警后面颠颠儿回来,看到我扑到怀里委屈地哭,“我去找Muscheln,,,就看不见妈妈了”。
原来,她离开我一步就开始捡,然后捡着捡着,就把自个捡丢了。
后来跟她一个好朋友的妈妈聊起这个话题,那个妈妈气呼呼,我们也在那儿丢过!
而Trieste附近的海滩,多的是这种小螃蟹。
![](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSvA7LOhctinhJk8C2auOtNipdp6sipsXD-2BSSzl3Dbw1wvR4-PLQm45TPv-62LWtrRFQ&usqp=CAU)
(照片网上找的,只是想说很多很小,在浅滩上爬的飞快)
从地理位置上来说,Trieste在亚德里亚海域,是有名的大学城,也是很多国际大企业的总部,比如这个咖啡。
![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d0/Logo_Illy.svg/175px-Logo_Illy.svg.png)
他家最经典的是Espresso,也是意大利人最自豪的一种咖啡(他们弄个计算软件,都要叫Espresso的)。不过我一般不敢喝那么浓的,我还是喜欢我们自己的加长版,爱国先爱国货。
咖啡,当然是Trieste最令人眼花缭乱的风景之一,我在那里,见识了加姜汁的,加酒的,还有各种稀奇古怪根本不认识名字的。长长的一个花名册拿到手里,假装从头看到尾再从尾看到头,最后挑的,是人家写在小黑板上的今日特价款(那个肯定是点最多的嘛我多狡猾)。
回来,接着说对Trieste印象好的原因。
吃完午饭,自然要到市里各处逛逛(我们孩子别的中文基本不灵,但是逛逛这两个字,还是会说的)。结果,刚刚一点多一点点,老三开始哼哼叽叽,Hunger!
对,你们出门不考爸爸妈妈一下,这一天算白过。
我真是气到撞墙。吃饭的时候我就觉得她没吃两口,问说吃饱了,才让人收拾结账出门。
没办法,只好再找吃的。理论上,中午一点到3点,是意大利人的午休时间,连Restraunt都休息不卖给你热饭的(西班牙是2点到4点)。连着问了好几家,人都说,对不起。
吃的肯定有,问题是,她不要——随处可见的蛋糕店琳琅满目,她轮番看一遍,不想!
最后我硬给拖进一家Caffee/Restraunt。齐齐坐下,俩大的也点好冰激凌,我厚着脸皮问,你们还有剩的吃的吗,同时指着老三,她饿了。
Waitress小姑娘看看我们又看看我们老三,我帮你问问啊。过一会儿端出两块小小的PIZZA,说,我送给你们——老实说,我怀疑是中午客人吃剩下的还没来得及扔,人给切切热一下拿出来——那不管,反正我是谢天谢地,先喂饱再说。老三这回倒是狼吞虎咽,吃得渣都没剩。
连我们老大看在眼里,都叮嘱我,妈妈我们待会儿多给人一点Trinkgeld吧——当然当然。
Trieste另外的一个特点是,尽管行政上是意大利领土,不过说德语。跟那个给我们PIZZA的小姑娘聊几句,发现她居然是我们州过来做暑期工的(她听到我们孩子说跟她一样口音的德语,也是兴奋地不得了)。
历史上,Trieste曾经属于Karl der Grosse统治下的法国(查理大帝嘛,好像我们这里还讨论过这个发音),神圣罗马帝国,奥匈帝国的奥地利部分,Jugoslawien,1954年之后,算是重回意大利。而Trieste的港口,除了是世界上为数不多的免税港,更是丝绸之路的终点,航道直通苏伊士运河,土耳其,甚至远达中国。这个交通枢纽的位置,决定了他是拉丁,希腊和犹太各种文化的汇集处,被形容为早期的纽约,海上维也纳,咖啡之城。
![](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ac/Marinesektion_-_Wappen-Triest.jpg/170px-Marinesektion_-_Wappen-Triest.jpg)
Trieste的Wappen(城标?我不知道这个怎么翻译好,好像我们中国的地区和城市没这个习惯,就是一个盾牌一样的东西,比如我们村的是一个锚)。
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)
James Joyce在Trieste的雕像——人家爱尔兰人,只是在Trieste住过几天,就被Trieste毫不客气当自己人了。
还想起一个笑话。欧洲人一向对文学艺术这方面比较推崇。歌德席勒贝多芬莫扎特这些人,可能只要他们住过的地方你都能找到痕迹,最常见就是雕像。而其他的比如政客一般是没有资格被塑像的。几年前中国人(忘了是哪个城市出面),送给Trier一个马克思的雕像(肯定还有别的礼物以示友好嘛没什么的),结果Trier市民抗议,不许戳出来。弄得市长很为难,不摆出来吧对不起中国,摆出来吧得罪当地民众,一直吵了好久——我不知道最后怎么处理的。
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