Brand to Know: The Fashion Collective Making Modern Armor

In Germany, calling your fashion label GmbH is so inconspicuous, it’s almost a joke: The acronym stands for a word that means corporation or company.But there is nothing ordinary about the subversive Berlin-based fashion collective GmbH, lead by Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik. “We wanted to be somewhat nameless,” said Huseby, sitting at a cutting table in GmbH’s studio which, reminiscent of an underground club, is hidden within a massive L-shaped industrial building in Kreuzberg, a neighborhood populated with artists, activists and Turkish immigrants. Isik nodded and added, “We collaborate with our team, with other artists. That’s how it works in Berlin.”Photo

For years, despite the city’s reputation as a progressive creative capital, Berlin has launched few noteworthy fashion designers onto the international stage. Both Huseby and Isik admitted that they were attracted to the city because of — not despite — its anti-fashion scene. Their first collection (called Collection Zero) took traditional workwear, like German carpenter pants, and made them fitted, using vintage, deadstock or club-friendly fabrics such as vinyl. When Collection Zero launched in 2016, it was immediately picked up by Opening Ceremony; last year GmbH was shortlisted for the LVMH Award.Photo

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