乘阿拉斯加邮轮回到西雅图后,还顺道雷尼尔雪山(Mt. Rainer)一游。此行是事先计划好的、和相当期待的。缘由去年科罗拉多高原大圈游时,小女曾就保护拱门国家公园地貌发起过一项倡议《Stay On Trails at National Parks》(欢迎大家访问支持)。可拱门公园的土地都是光秃秃的不好看,在网上搜索对比时发现雷尼尔雪山那漫山的野花最能吸引眼球,就为倡议制作了这张招贴画:
![](https://d22r54gnmuhwmk.cloudfront.net/photos/8/sa/fw/CGSaFWWQrsBDiIZ-800x450-noPad.jpg?1438208683)
从那时起,一家人就决定一定要尽快到那仙境一般的地方一游。在西雅图乘邮轮前和上船后,曾惊鸿一瞥,见识了她的容貌。此后随着邮轮回航离她愈来愈近,我们的期待也越来越高。
梦里寻他千百度,蓦然回首:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cfYklekmfw_bahzuz7dfqLilNwc6pLQqGC_JKgyUxtHaLX4A0w69amGCcL2MZrVOimiZ7wvRr84vJLC8vi-EIFfCOiHphWRSiJuXYPm5YmJxkpYlBI6kW7Y0rACorK_qmEm1m1MKy0lxsRLy8zjcoR-aaEKK7xgCzXyNFA_KuwJYWaKzjUG30mnDmH8SpFliWjKvh5emDFp7QsMEf5oCY0KZ6tr2qyWJNciKM1wPxao_nlqeGqGafUhi61qcZcYMf702UmDeeLFxZI56L6GXXZyR_HfUmVYdQc7hl7aTiDQXJ-A2eiWENDtazsAEzgDba7tj8EBhRxXQCAEUQ1EaeNQqhf0v0X2-ZA9oAhruiWIsAlFGqiLwIyTdwlkC5mXkqhFo35TXaYaKCcToZuBXpwbQQgMZioJlDFpRiaS8XWRptfgrX-_b5kXLljYUFgshl1-5JpKeyEEfDmokEzu0PHVGAOm7UDN5GjGKAblq_QD7avvH2b96vtXHdzMbGJ2TTNYCjUDvr-GqI2aS8UhgXnfCzZXDvLMs9fBUvOTa8SIrqQ7BHuWGTIQGvJ27q40JKswG6zaUVo8Sz6mQ5UoOWYAJnPWUcG0=w1302-h867-no)
终于下船了,匆匆赶到机场租了车。其间还拒绝了租车行的美意,没有接受他们免费给升级的大越野车(Ford Excursion)。这其一吗,看了这么多的自然美景,坐家不想多浪费自然资源和增加污染。其二吗,我的路不熟,不知车太大会不会是个问题,毕竟安全是最重要的。其三,俺上次在华盛顿州开大越野车时被警察抓过,罚了140大刀,心有余悸。
开着中型轿车,一家人就兴冲冲地出发了。打开收音机听听吧,毕竟也有一个星期不插电了。这个捣乱的世界啊,我几天没关心就不太平了。这不,奥兰多又发生了枪击案,还是美国近年来伤亡最惨重的,一家人不仅就此噫嘻一番。就这样,一路开呀开,一个多小时过去了,可咋连雷尼尔雪山的影儿还没看到呢?难道迷路了?可这明明是公园的大门啊。然后大树也看到了,瀑布也看到了,不管有雪的还是没雪的,还有不叫雷尼尔的雪山也看到了,贪吃的土拨鼠也见到了,雪地上也去撒了点儿野:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YJAemkI7kFPlwP4wEHhp89gxySBMW6lwAQLjyTJKDrET7RWNgyGJB5kDSgUnSXqxdcCDjNOTzDM9kGtY3gwfTqQz1-wvNHkwX0u_6MJPrXwDeGzTV6M4xj5_1C4aWq-ysElq8fd-uItf-wmQzuQ9iXamOidquy89DRb5cHs1jbudX0ITyc8mhcQ2SazIT3wpn99Uyu6kZTNrM9AZpOEmrlJ68HtWI2QEbnUgXIdwyHbJDl_42c1xnyD2hvOg9gN5zC2VSW386SOxt242_mH9Ar0I-qqh_YnYpPnPnyX698EbydLaIYM-lVboRDYloZD_sBo8jE3U2KzCa_I0GDTTMd-l7e2Q9mkKO211eG6w4pl7tuY6ADIzHUG-EfM6cHYRZVT45dDi9TdFSZjptKsdWB_RyzPxG2D6GPLGtwsKaBkzsMe4H0ia16YdVfWn6DgiBkvLft8R-xDv9XBa6p48_AAV3NLe6SQuKrJo1NUNkpghjk9r_uMFNSuq1KQtDgrtbLgUTnbnXADiM_H7r8BHdum3PFD1gPv7je2vI04nkLIjFa8yrHhFjQdJyQ1Ny6PZbONLw9W12YvdZ-ez1Rwqh5mlU4fkGMio=s867-no)
千呼万唤始出来,终于,害羞的雪美人轻轻揭开了她的面纱:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BITagJbUVZHWaCC3h7JNBys8-9uydfr3JRu_JFP4ctU3cX0Qc7AibpQQNeLu0505gUaagUCty76rY4nQ7W8A5WQV3ESXJEe8tbUMNY7IEXwhLMncKWFh8y2OS7lGNswYwxRucXdgmUhzg5juHwQZv1TtAXGhrKN2ZMs4pssm69UrH01pludrqMWYnw8BrGU3GCPUZSTC6qHvRQgfJbRrlPmL9olEDCd95ujDTRBT4jGipxOXxYMY3622QqHl0zjGDTdvSbJArhF5H03OHFYfTQ-X9I_FZwg9eVK-el4YF2WGteSA4r6sKce9CjdyNHvvmnKvekRKPb0PqA5A-pdDQUBb8l0rIhM4hMXhtCH3Q3178wsLypU7Zl70qt0RLAg-HhKPBufRieuR0jNaWo4fP5kqmb2BbgxPWXR9XF3o_IjMwMf_aY3ouj3pVKMaiBfpjb4bYjZPgV5pmSrhZ6C1Vdct2ijUPBVfj3VBXMVdMVqvR39pjIr39TFG7EcRp8ZUhVgkoD6tlvnM-YHrEKvUV2VJa8aROORCc7-cGCVKiNqZQadDRZPKQhDDXiHPkOHzWZ51Ins9a547-2zOI0BWg_dMp8V3djsM=w1302-h867-no)
渐渐地,美人的胆子变大了:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LpEe37wRtDOyVXQ-4_n_feeEkwdUYci_OnX0odrNHqoisMbgZV5NEoJnCt_b-lpsBP4kp3yEdn6pksPu69zp-3h4ep1QcIt63qzqLIvqx3jq_Iso92ue-meZG3sTsf5jlfWJh6AvP1-kcHvKqW6_zTQsCTmsJpDeNIuNHm3wUH7zP3w9Gg1dBzzSeDPUjpAmrpwavuWKZUc1VmoGWPXJrncsYWq7iuz7iV2X3BcmqqITEUFFQV4OqbkBUw00OvfevngG4S2UXvAB-JADLFDQmc1S4iVTAcEGdfDDcOxLJJQpzfXYjDipZVY8MLJ7gqrKA-6hbDaFoIYTOj1RZMFJ7DNmPerB9ckdYm4Mzgg9ZknBpxyyoSJ6U0npfvE63a6AbBNqc_ASr-5HntG2wOz7CYVNrruO2y-JbHoGCOQH2nTRTuX30UjZHtuhOBTZRkNymiadoaP9wv_TZLGd6h0DopDOQWhgM4-S-66OEml2jso2BXyj3_2oYFNSeKwZwvdvjwtVb62ywp99s6ehPcx0Zc55P2hDueRuJWjD3wM_JncEJK9AVssJMUV_1Hj8U4p3ODawn5sN-vOLYqsSTBb48HpR3LRaPgKr=w1302-h867-no)
我们终于有了和她亲密接触的机会:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3dkYPSiY5OizIr7MuVGOP7k03fWVlnbqc2GM4CPGPsi2rKyf8WgNpTm8xsbVy_-rOt5EpLnla46BUW2fHd_yrrBMALmHA8_7LxsQ21nYX_h5XF6cicPo0BZREKkzdIc151j_GmJP4-SsrsbCUDVdOYULZod-_YRWR7nagCH_kEiDAyZ9VorpQwJ5IrUmXtOd3CYwHB5tM-Cw0UJeDFXKEgoAls-Km7-Rdb4uYRrdV3D5zwjYTQkC0VvYM8nm51tasnN2LfbhGcFf3fpAqPlKWpT9DTwBFbo6DOsNFFcAjrZIQ96FDUE9kdwsmG-4xtXGGJBXi9iV2HfzvMZ4-Cjy0xG1Fejbe1cnUjeukrq1ENVV19B62tVlzKPweu9QYkWAhBqovsoG7P37ctCiXwOpu6GXVOVLWAh1dcWnqAQbXtAszghnp60hzwsTCddLBrxzPp-JaKdR9ElOvpX0tI0ti6whRznYv41cl1fzwt0t_FzVqj9rS7_NhOcF0yIDEpA6k5FOa8ymQuRwhS-8bnxG0ijFUhwuLYgB6OMG0UPwipguKQguC-eGRlL2N84Npr5HcnrgzejOhHI_kDHOSN7-sAkhIU_FxI3E=w1302-h867-no)
惊回首,离天三尺三!
可能是我的大胆吓到了她,雪美人又躲回了神秘的面纱后面:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LCGJbyE-r5sBSUVVNKZct7NpZyqDYfmseHNaroJKaZ_efIbmbPi87yHJH7Qwj6rj0EABErRyK08qabJem3mRflo3rTXr-B-EI8GT5WU_TdRZVrfFGj8IqIbeoDKwG-cboVyo_LDmXnRZ7jxrSyCUCAZBklo88iYZIA90wbm_nGOZUxTGbInT0oKmDEgo2yAQaaoNxOf-sqzxq8iSEWue4lTwc_oXvWkSnk8D4z2HMAtqtcGxZIs6JjQxqaDTR3S46ML40W8yvg_yrnaUShavTYz3IP3FF6XUYcyw7tC4sbjIXhz1yR0Y9bQh3t2JwBeomTuFgb8hcdde9R_lK-Y5uzX1QIbsTePayZYbPZ0_94i__WVcH8gptZojKuXjVhcdyWsv2qtj938xhb77wxy6awojFq8Kt1S15vUd2o7gkvIpKtnf9nz_5Dgz5SWayioF5rYFx2u9BayVmdl1A4Yu8GDVX6wpks2ZD9LxRDDA8UW-TRRybtPkJQtb-dQIiEJ1OSuOs-NRWEK35UFWAfVyvXtT862jxBewnQkgrm270U2ei5qtd7y1X9qN0MsENN9T_RfSDG8ShcaKJBv8a4HMG_OxsR5NBi6Q=w1302-h867-no)
当晚,我们下榻在天堂客栈(Paradise Inn),希望明天能再睹美人的芳容:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mfODpU-hiDhsQGfAdXnMG6GRDlREJMx8OzkjwXhJ7sV4zMGfSosa-7GVgO-xZmeZ0dj86PodpORFOKqssnJ4eqcIlDnAyMwrRaAI8SKNrawijdP_DM9RaEeO6Dn2PiZMmCou7wI0Azw6dyOKk-MNPBXLcG_tCKNsneTv-Uf4tYomMK2HAG0LFS87IKw9WzqGG7kAiqnUpYasQpvBXnjAJhNvAZ2_SnLI8jhx54xiuGw5bDPwNkcXSwkUsdK5EL78ehHZBPLRwCxsvvD_fEgygu165DY65KB0RkgqWNioI53e5oyJyrc3gNqPjPQxvw-doxt2OYE5sB5sjB3R1IuwBP19pw3GwWWmaSNJ4H_nINSC47rFTrvZ0r_916wT_lLeh-VDhQ56Cv1ZfjUzkzANiu87eLpb4IIHvO7u5MJZYsFzf5auWNLL1pv9R6ffEopLPsxgLVClhf7ZdV8UQAvCw3-FBZkoKTlp1wZETC7YEPInHDIlEL3QBWNvmMcyYa47E7jzY5u9s1VyCCUM_2kM0ZVId5j-C5W2yK4MlyQP-ORwRlvGNLMVclTbXGZ6I7AhuXSyQFZiC3C2Nfu-NtQFTQZGEvCLlJ2W=w1302-h867-no)
傍晚的美景让我们流连忘返:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DTOE_AVD6vlKxodt0Efl2CLwbIhwvkpOuLD6kamm4T56_ygamj7cq8htQIzr-mGtjYBap8t0Y8hsYwgAE97iWjYHEiSP_NLVz2knPeJxDuHY_8D9mJmq_hqquOWRFUL23uB1ESGlEbrbfIoHesYOaW9rXvIobwhJhCMzZ-bz1Ue4AK2-zRf66HF-wDdHpntomhvzGawx3c3NBC2VdA8JytEE0-m01Djn5nFx5dM92KmXN93s6NkWaITLKkh5rcJTWrdSfHiup0Xv9Psi3_kxCB77oMUuIl-2L7TWzfX1wOiBZz6GhHQrJq4ZqCDsFcY0WmOM40RE-CE9ayXX3OWbYYPaGdEvmsTb3yfqax04j0Gda7U0iqhN82MxAMPWR4X_m-7hY2E6v4bjBLb8PItTRbbzQXySyO92KOQH2MalN5oGhAtoAqrg8i4XpwdhfRcoL9-i-vOt-Biz8l2OSm5FpGCnboy4F1Fft8X9vDhu9C0a1KpiAcieH7pCl5OPQ_FLMYqTBnX9VRktgV7Xy-dpg8KAjEj6ALbpEdGafCP0dow9MRwhGuRkFUTSf41fE5SyrgrGV9_bJ_qa2ktiYJVRdXz9yCT9pkak=w1302-h867-no)
客栈大堂悬挂着的绘有各色花卉的、古色古香的灯罩们不知记载着多少故事:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S7f3AN_z_TP03tP64Af4z4P-woPIFz8bFoCX9vBfOt8iVVG2615NXWEvUjWKGojIbIo1IeA8h9oeVEDnCbEaz_iugB_McSCJCnY2Jj9DIE5Bc_o7622_Y3D5h4Q9AVHLUZgZiEYd7lxIMJ1r6p9_8JuG0CNuySDz13W4pugG_5tO3pfSsjiIqs_AJwVMdHet4zVlZ_6Z1uiBJMyjCFAax2KRfaDVgZdM9SpB8NX0D_le4cmnFkFAvbNALWmK3jpT9U7sF-LiiQ_0Gm_5I8At2eXcd_2-UHnV6Zal3BKH-CtyRcuew_41AvW0l5M0AevAbUdLlRgmg56EmVkX_WMGlmvVjCSNnPPSZXgpRfCUkWCz3YwQSh7_U9eQPNFh2I26MjF1FPZeVwrQFu-cMudYKqPd02ZRfcb6Rd84FU0d3h3w8O2bJMe9DJfvXaI887h96oLUVUQgusd-Al1pnuge9S-nr3gQagUnKgNQ9PjH7N_hiTi045UCXxUX-ssPGEWqHaGbczMzs6meNbwGwrd8vHjfpHS7MR3XbiUhGgRiiig7JlhNVewraH2o2l5HYuaRdofGUV5-jjQIJNUQ1qnOEngRWfLz3JUQ=w1302-h867-no)
在这样的环境下,谁舍得去睡觉呢:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cq1xULIHtZbyMDQNfI9aIFBRAFSERHL-BbMYFnCCMTKwSAcxR1NsW077iH70hBdM-pLqsJ4duXE2x0pvhew-UwHO7Qb0roweQKEwfjFC3xNhdjRGjIB1yPPgFPBmB9GYJyhWsnGDBFsaaQnsA2Swnfo6mS3FDO2P23bn2LHqkmBVcrsipMy_D1sA_Gd67nUACGXm98PlBZFmP4pYyxwZHqpkmv8zpkterqbMcbcL4Mw1eTuQxsZSa7Pm9oVScAvZRyFnCVjyp51sy-YKEuQLEqnlvnhsjV12el21PVk6AI1suF-qnjyxI2nm5X2IP1TIiBkN4LG2qqcqliwO8wX6qbdoONUwPN4Ux95rVFFwiyGSgf5H66CvDQgL35cpJlUBrwmYN9_25bi4a7yRlfFEO_fo0MgMIOGXJmtTHrltK8Z-YVAQavPhS4Tw7ML21yUIKLw6XtiyXJFg_5FCddU2Ql4tVzqPB7xHlQSIcgdtya9AQByU8txXwrj8051SzoJgH0FMvrvQ6kMoRbu1z5ndzwXjGUWC6yKK4aQMN5C_BU2-4JNvZEaHeBN90r6dA_uawb7bQlbh-6UacfeQjtTHiauryn0czq_4=w1302-h867-no)
昨天可能真是冒犯了美人,第二天早晨她先是躲在了浓浓的雾后:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LUYGR4tKOCorSFptzLy4DUJzxrMoAPCdrArNO3E8Kk-f_Yb18tkQaLK4B5PIAIOqKClXLRQWorIw5uWFIKhYCRJImz38fmLd5qgK6ce0lVilEYwDiu-CwOcfRcqj0bsVSokqnqeRmOPeiPPQikuYOsBwgHQN0utpNx3w5TCpzokvYSuHKiE1SbJL4zFnbb1YzSf5fqpMczMhTdlOmTEvnGaZPwIUnFAhyyER_Mfl5G4CC2p80Vz7TK49ixONgtzojwC8FQF0lYC112_VQiMpOnJAOmsLQFpLgEWJHnvB8XHI3HoMhiaYbidywzv4h1ZgTPouu38jmE_tlapVkdTt2FpJoz4JP9bwdCbDqfYnHzciPT7CnLBWlMEqgtgIvHlBiOEDpGFqf6A8Eb_0oEmKwSh2ZDQ8RTlzFqbY2U5OECKa74oqNMwG7hjjD9m9S1hr61d_yScPLDxiW72OgQpZgCuBlGvcnlZ2UlC1RQcpreLZiU0C75qBjBasAtzXDJyPZwbWRubTcpjb-YCNeNZpTJBfVaW-2axGhCcFhnIDLwTmzl8UTqZ0tTb91K9KgbTw3Zi4fjPxWz4fjz_bxr9DxiaB-V0SONk=w1157-h867-no)
直到我们中午不得不离开时也不肯再见我们一面:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rOL3u40ulh44PfxtS_sMA0YmRZuGwupdASiMfV9HwaIatuzhu2ZO7XnzQKh5bOe1fxukxTF98LtDdLorar2dhVMHp70icArQfLjWxR6s1mnxdVYoeQcGy6f-wUH6Rik6amL4lkNu1JaTLKwgiPollCNXqIgXFW8bwc05QXa7UDTYv1fx24chPeX37V1gbNQeeDM2Tim1IzFeOM-jfrrY0viMwwPb7n1PU98x0fEHhjMgdNvgdlqEd0bdHYvEgqaYikVfoB4ilwl1xVzY57eYiVQVr2BKTfgZgRe2UlInUz3lPrS9UChGZGpF0n_7bLG2QFmpPxECacciL-PF3ePkHIhRN3uTK_syM534kvGr9gk0nzdj23rFtXwSrHg-VH2R1fffnmYqU69t3-1zfNxbD8Ky6VhLBr4n6Qo2-kzvaNVS7qMrW-0mlcBEBKRfpFyGoh1ZWzFnwAk5X2AEj8I_GhawDIJEATUd8cKjhUGchuvOX9yVwQ10Diwp1QsYJxxDzBffJ7829dwcPCYy9VvuU9bMFfK0fNn-bNS6B3boc59o0MBoWFH8-R0h09p8XJOmjB9vLJfMRhgHCGkRx5NDs2XVhIlpgnY=w1157-h867-no)
人说山里天气像三岁孩子的脸,真是一点也不假;我们此行的好天气终于在最后一天结束了。当天下午我们经123公路转410公路由公园的北口离开,一路游程中几乎一直在下雨,但这也丝毫没有减少我们的兴致:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_nICFWJ57hDObFTtJyWNtLiQCulkkqneNn6luCLBTAXn2HGgwi9lMLz1cLxBvSlsv6m-Q-MJJVig41zwT-uW4svfnKRxv7_xXTIeEvhVzFERo2PoQ98xAO2BkD9sH5iRxnxW5yf9OXOGBh2k4anjtSNyy7QQTLJG7XS5H9uc-rCpzUezvdNHlUE_2mLSmCtYFyVXNshDfGeG2iE3iht7prgVZnwDG1ifBdnQXOx584uJgFsjnC3qggo_WecGRkOcMx3JTWKMkd-7WbJHIadE8zEIGPtoLi__hTvA_lVUe-ec5ijczOn6OWKXe95v6tuN2WzLk_2hutIRUZ7GNFrcNHYbesYg_4ZXZxRUf6qfatI1AOjL1a1mHLJ3U5C2GmW-CUkw9rF29A3Q2IQZESR5iJxM-n1_UXLSulHw_NKqiYD4zE-zxPCQ76551uCdVaLgySdGGEICZVkx_21X8GLiRJTRX0yRJ2OQqBBxP8VOrKu9BeFUO9m1SK_Zgf6-iRVN_kDMFNjlqbpbisILJzuEqAoh0dwkrSN2LWera2hJQKoob56clChhrgfqfPb_seUxwdrio8Hp9SIS5HySkG8gdQ5pu2PYXbjH=s867-no)
遗憾的是,据说应该遍山是花的日落游览区(Sunset)居然还没有开放!(下次一定要做好功课,谨记!)野花虽然也看到了一些,但梦中的花田没有出现:
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XN1SwbInxHfGoxBARZ1bHjcxGU_hDGNHMrRe2RVmhvpdKTM-z8i6duMHQ7DrC5ox_wRCJjqBYnfzC13e3tw1Sp0Rne2ZCfE0NJ3Jra8-dMk-Zgkztv1NanMWwhg9OFkOENjHykJFpZXnmTy-5sSmwLzY_eySv9dZYyppf-_yKFRkBOAQrO9r8sS9M3CsDGMgIZQp5SS3ZQQX0doWl07D6PO6yMbD8dHd4XTlWZK0UUbTPNPO2o-CGwV7we1gW8IMXhsMPh2A3HgiFJfcMAcNW_UD0paM9uNmXvbgcqYmF9Puk4khxVwmioCsPrwX0idC4nzw1CkjAzX7TnsNmna0Cjg_ES-UL71vErNpksc2G_TCrryYK8yYjQF8P22mjwOVpjEG4XgHOWoUCjUqhvjK8JxYWAedyPUrXkf-4YR1CrEzpLsfzreSQmOdt_dgKeJUiy9ysE3GSERCUR574UBb2TffSLJ05u-rUcs3fKZ0nf4Q_VNl6lEgMjBqlUT5XYvRy9iF9bs2TJRz4DUuvJIbQUX1njs-hf5sEM54z0lRcIKcIpIDM4HMMiwEZZ5TFo7MSiYLau7NLO5R33uR04hSoS6KDywcRLDp=s867-no)
早了几个星期花没看成,看来还得再来看她一次。嗯,就这么约定了。
欢迎阅读本系列的其他篇章:
《再探阿拉斯加——鹰熊篇》
《再探阿拉斯加——鲸鱼篇》
《再探阿拉斯加——船上篇》
《再探阿拉斯加——岸上篇》
2016年7月23日初稿
2016年7月24日修改
北加州农田草舍
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