今年11月从上海去泰国普吉岛潜水,地点:Koh Bon, Taichai Pinnacle, Pichelieu Rock, North Point, Breakfast Bend, West of Eden, Anita’s Reef, Boon Song Wreck。与印尼比,这里水温高,暗流小,能见度好,对国内的潜水爱好者来说,普吉岛是个价廉物美的方便去处。回程的飞机上,邻座的一个女孩和我聊起潜水风险,她专门搜索过PADI Asia Pacific 的统计资料,说死亡事故率是万分之一点几,我由此想起了两次特殊潜水经历。
几年前,去巴哈马的South Andros 岛的蓝穴(Blue Hole)做洞穴潜。去洞穴要穿过热带丛林,有种树看似光滑无害但实际有毒,皮肤沾到会痛痒溃烂。洞穴口不大,四周岩石环绕。洞穴上层是淡水,底部是咸水,有比重差。我和女友安加教练三人,下潜到50米深处开始探游。洞穴如地下长城,隧道连隧道,完全漆黑,靠手电光在黑暗中摸索,看到零星小鱼小虾。安可能有点紧张,浮控发生问题,背贴洞穴顶部无法下潜。洞壁上的钟乳石,形状各异,锋利尖锐,如缠住或输气管被割破,那就麻烦了。教练见状立即上浮,用随带的铅块帮她加重(在水下把铅块拴在腰带上颇费周折),他也没向我示意,可能顾头顾不了尾。我晃悠了一阵发现周围没了手电光,才意识到反常。看空气量尚够,我按照潜水联络要领原地不动,用手电光画圈呼叫。过了一会,仍未看见回应,我开始作独自游出洞穴的心理准备。在地形陌生的50米深水下,看着自己吐出的气泡冉冉上升,而后在黑暗中相继湮灭,象夜深人静时杯中香槟气泡随香而逝,一股奇特静谧缓缓充溢心中........不知过了多久(其实不过十来分钟而已),教练和安的手电光终于在头顶上出现。我们在迷宫般的洞穴中,鱼贯而行,游向光明。时至如今,每当想起在水下深穴中独处的那十几分钟,心里就会涌出重获自由的释放快感,如流向大海的脱羁小溪。
几年前去澳洲大堡礁潜水,在船上住了十来天,每天潜4-5次。自由潜时(没有教练导航),安自告奋勇带路。我俩都忘了带指南针,结束后浮出水面时,才发现潜水船在海面上显得很小。我们起初试图游回潜水船,但那天浪高风大,游了十几分钟后,安就精疲力尽无法继续。但她沉着冷静,在浪涛里摸索出红色求救风标袋,充气鼓起呼救。由于我们背朝太阳面对潜水船,距离又远,船上教练难以发现。等教练看到后驾救生艇驶近时,安因体力消耗过大已无力爬上小艇。教练扔出缆绳让我们在海中埋头拽行,我的气瓶有足够余量返回,而安的气瓶余量所剩无几,但她没发觉。半途中,安因缺气而挣扎翻身,以便仰面呼吸。但教练不知身后情况,仍然快速挺进,安被快艇拖拽着在海浪里翻滚。我跟在她身后,发觉情况不对,连忙向教练大喊叫停。等教练听到减速后,安和我都已喝下不少海水。上船后,我和安都相互暗示不声张,教练也若无其事。与别处相比,澳洲的潜水教练似乎都沾点牛仔气,不拘小节。或许,喜欢潜水的人,都不爱渲染和夸张。
潜水有一定风险,但获得的快乐和体验也很独特,这是人生的交换。走在上海街头也有风险,被各种交通工具撞上的概率,可能比潜水事故更大。如果我潜水遇到不测,葬身海底与可爱鱼儿为邻,也是个不坏的结局。
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沉船潜(wreck dive)时看到这条鱼,它挣扎不停却无法摆脱鱼钩。我用潜水刀割断鱼线,鱼儿飞快地游远,我的心也轻松了。问泰国教练鱼儿能否成活,他说2-3周后鱼钩会脱落,鱼儿一般都能活下来。
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穿迷彩服的蝎子鱼(scorpion fish), 喜偷袭扑食,人一旦被咬,患处红肿痛痒难忍,经久难消。
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章鱼(octopus)
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章鱼偷窥
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见我游近,小鱼摇摆尾巴通知小虾躲进洞内,小鱼在洞口守望。它们动作太快,难以聚焦。
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清洁鱼(cleaning fish)吃鼓鼓鱼(puffer fish)腮里的细菌,鼓鼓鱼保护清洁鱼,完美共生。
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剔透如绢纸的珊瑚花。
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混血日裔巴西教练Beto,27岁离开家乡巴西利亚,在东南亚和日本当潜水教练至今。他的人生梦是存够钱,买艘帆船环游世界。
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我搭乘的潜水船
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