What is happening to New York fashion week? Doomed or destined for something else
Victoria Beckham showed her last collection on Sunday before she joins the London fashion week schedule, Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Rodarte and Thom Browne have decamped overseas and Georgina Chapman of Marchesa, who has announced her divorce to Harvey Weinstein, pulled out of showing replacing the runway with a digital presentation. So what’s going on in New York?
‘Crisis’ is a word the media have been using lately, which might seem hyperbole, but there’s definite subdued mood and a big question mark over if editors, buyers and critics will travel to the city in the same numbers as they once did. And while there’s a slower pace to the line-up, its fate is by no means sealed.
Firstly, some headliners might have upped and moved, but there are a lot still here. American stalwarts like Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren, Raf Simons’s Calvin Klein, Michael Kors and Coach remain, as have the intrinsically New York labels Alexander Wang, The Row and Rosie Assoulin.
Then there’s the space by those who’ve left for younger labels to occupy like Gabriella Hearst, Sally Lapointe and fledgling Chromat, Gypsy Sport, LRS as well as the ever-promising Matthew Adams Dolan who showed a mature mix of tailoring this season. All the less likely that they will be competing with a big-ticket name for schedule attention.