运动图案首饰,是先将一块水晶石打磨、然后在背面雕刻,最后在雕刻图案上绘色。对于喜欢运动特别是喜欢狩猎的人来说,这样的首饰曾非常受欢迎。现在这类首饰的制作者已为数不多。
评估这类首饰的价值,首先要看雕刻工艺和细节的处理,再就是保存完好的程度,因为水晶表面很容易被划伤。
墨西哥:1950年塔斯科银首饰
这套首饰由墨西哥早年间的女首饰师 Margot 制作,背后有 Margot 的名款。Margot是为数不多的墨西哥女子在1948年时开始经营自己的首饰商店,她的首饰设计风格融入了埃及风格、新艺术、艺术装饰以及墨西哥本土的民做文化;Margot 逝世于1985年,近年来她的首饰颇受收藏者的钟爱。
美国:1950年 Margaret De Patta Studio Jewelry
关于 Margaret De Patta 的介绍,我这里将鉴赏者的英文对话贴出,对于文中所提到“建构主义艺术“ 结合 Margaret De Patta 首饰的设计风格,超出了我的理解能力。如果哪位网友读到此文,希望能够帮助补充这段对话的译文。
These are examples of a rebel. Margaret De Patta was a rebel in many ways. These were American studio jewelers. They were mid-century modernists. They were rebelling against the type of jewelry that was mass-produced. What they wanted to do was to deconstruct things and to make things sharp and clean.
And they used, not diamonds and gold and precious metals; they might have used sterling and some stones and some wood. And they were not for the masses. They were for the intellectual elite.
And there was a group on the East Coast and there was a group on the West Coast. Now, Margaret De Patta was the leader of the West Coast group.
She started making jewelry in the '30s and opened her workshop in 1935. But she didn't just design. She was actually hands-on. She made this jewelry herself, and she well marked it.
Her technique was called constructivism. She just pared it down to the essence of what jewelry should be.
Now, what we have here are iconic examples of her work. Very, very good, strong, clean lines. She used interesting stones. Right here we have rutilated quartz, and she favored sterling. On this piece down here, which is a matching pin and earring set, she's used ebony, which is a dark wood. The white material is chalcedony, which is an agate, and freshwater pearls.
美国:19世纪爱斯基摩耳饰
上图是最近一集(5/18/2010)的美国电视鉴宝节目介绍的19世纪爱斯基摩耳饰,海象象牙材料,估价为1-1.2万美元。我没有太弄明白怎样佩戴这只耳饰,电视鉴赏人也没有讲解。据美国人说,是将耳饰的左边镶进耳孔内,爱斯基摩人从小戴这种耳饰,耳孔便会越来越大,大到能够镶进上图这样的耳饰。耳饰的右边为装饰雕刻。我没有看到过戴这种耳饰的爱斯基摩人的图片。
接下篇:古典首饰秀—胸饰篇