This could also be called the whatever-is-fresh-at-the-farmers-market-now rice salad. Thai red rice is unmilled (like brown rice) and takes longer to cook than polished rice like jasmine. However, because the grains are slender, they cook more quickly than other unmilled rices and use less water. Use a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight-fitting lid to ensure the steam is retained in the pot during cooking. One cup raw rice yields about 3 cups cooked rice. Measurements and times vary according to rice type, so follow the package directions. Jasmine rice takes 15 to 18 minutes. Find red rice at Asian markets or specialty markets, or substitute brown rice.

Makes 4 salad servings

1 cup Thai red rice

1 1/2 cups chicken stock or water

1/3 cup canola oil

1/4 cup fresh lime or lemon juice (about 2 large limes or 1 lemon)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 heaping tablespoon honey

1 cucumber, peeled and chopped

2 green onions, using green parts only, chopped

1/2 green or red bell pepper, chopped (1/2 cup)

1/4 small red onion, finely chopped (1/4 cup)

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Wash the rice well and drain. In a heavy-bottomed pot, combine the rice and stock. Bring to a boil over high heat and let boil for 1 minute. Stir the rice to prevent sticking. Cover the pot and reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting and simmer until all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is tender, about 30 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let stand covered for 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, whirl the canola oil, lime juice, soy sauce and honey in a blender until smooth to make the vinaigrette.

When done, fluff the rice with a fork and combine the rice and vegetables in a large bowl. Add the vinaigrette and stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Let the salad sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.

This recipe from Grains, Rice and Beans by Kevin Graham (Artisan 1995) was inspired by Japanese rice balls or onigiri. Graham uses short-grain Japanese rice (sushi rice) that has a gummier, stickier texture compared with long-grain rice, which is why it is sometimes called sticky rice. I use Japanese partially milled haigamai available at many Asian markets. Or substitute white Japanese short-grain rice.

Makes 6 appetizer servings

1 1/2 cups haigamai

1/4 cup rice vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

Pinch of kosher salt

1 (1.7-ounce) bottle nori furikake (Japanese seaweed and sesame seed rice seasoning, available at Asian markets)

Sesame oil

Mascarpone Dip (recipe below)

Cook rice according to package directions.

In a small pan, heat the vinegar, sugar and salt over medium heat, stirring constantly until the sugar dissolves.

Place the cooked rice into a large mixing bowl and spoon in the seasoned vinegar, mixing well with a flat wooden spoon or spatula until the vinegar is evenly distributed and the rice takes on a sheen. Set aside until the rice is cool enough to handle with your hands.

With wet hands, divide the rice mixture into 12 equal portions. Form each portion into a ball, then press tightly between your hands to form a disc 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter. Set the discs aside on a clean dish. Wet hands often to prevent the rice from sticking to your fingers.

Pour the nori furikake onto a flat plate. Press each rice disk lightly into the mixture, coating each side evenly. Refill the plate as necessary.

Coat the bottom of a nonstick skillet thinly with sesame oil and heat over medium-low heat. Pan-fry the cakes in batches until golden brown on both sides, turning very carefully with a spatula, about 1 to 2 minutes per side. If a cake breaks, carefully shape it back into a disc. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. Repeat until all the cakes are done.

Serve immediately with mascarpone dip.

Mascarpone Dip

1 cup mascarpone cheese

1 tablespoon wasabi paste (or to taste)

2 teaspoons honey

Whirl all the ingredients in a blender until mixed thoroughly, about 1 minute. Serve at room temperature with the wasabi-sesame rice cakes.

This recipe is based on David Lebovitz's rice gelato (gelato di riso) recipe in his book The Perfect Scoop (Ten Speed Press 2007). Instead of Italian Arborio rice, I used Japanese sweet rice (mochigome). This short-grain glutinous rice is fat and opaque when raw. Once cooked, it turns translucent and clumps together. Available at Asian markets, glutinous rice's mildly sweet flavor is excellent in desserts and gives the ice cream a creamy, sticky texture interspersed with whole grains of rice. If unavailable, stick to Lebovitz's original recipe and use Arborio rice.

Makes 6 servings

1/2 cup Japanese sweet rice (or Thai glutinous rice)

3 cups whole milk

3/4 cup sugar, divided

Pinch of salt

1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise

5 large egg yolks (save the whites for use later)

1 cup half-and-half or cream

Pinch of nutmeg

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

In a 2 to 2 1/2-quart baking dish, mix together the rice, milk, 1/4 cup sugar and salt. Add the vanilla bean.

Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake for 1 hour. Remove the rice from the oven and remove the foil. Stir in the remaining 1/2 cup sugar, then continue to bake the rice, uncovered for another 30 minutes.

Remove the rice from the oven a second time, and remove the milk skin that has formed on the surface, followed by the vanilla bean. Immediately whisk in the egg yolks briskly. Then whisk in the half-and-half and nutmeg.

Whirl half the rice mixture in a blender or food processor until pureed (when you can't see anymore whole rice grains). Stir it back into the rest of the cooked rice, mixing thoroughly.

Chill the mixture in the refrigerator, then freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's directions.